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Okee dokee. There appear to be two methods to remove the handguard:
1. Remove gas cylinder assembly, ferrule, and front guard, then drift the pin from the lower band and remove band by "walking" it up the barrel. Then slide off the guard.
...or
2. Carefully un-clip the spring band on the rear guard, tip up from the rear, and remove, a-la the CMP site and "Charles."
Which is the G.I. way?
Which is your favorite way?
Thanks!
Bob
Mostly because I don't like putting tension on the rear handguard clip. It is easy to break the rear handguard, either by chipping out a portion of wood at that location or causing a crack.
The risk with #1 is scratching the barrel but I have done this probably well over 100 times and find that I seldom ever have a problem. If I do scratch it Brownells makes a solution called Dicropan that covers it nicely.
Just my two cents worth..........
I do #1 and I have never did any damage at all.
I would never try and do #2 handguards are to expensive to replace.
I've always found reinstalling the rear guard by reversing the #2 method
to be a risky adventure. So I remove everything from the barrel to begin
with, so I won't be tempted....
If there is a space between the rear of the handguard and the receiver face No 2 will work - if it is tight you will split the handguard.
I'd go with #1
The only problem I see with removing the lower band pins is if it is staked and never been removed you ruin the value. I would make a note of this as someone with a nice Lend Lease for instance would devaluate the piece immediately if they punch the pin out. It would be called a put together if a collector notice this.
Just food for thought. Rick B
Have done it the #2 method hundreds of times, not one problem.
I assume it's done my way.
Remove all internal parts, turn barrel receiver up side down, place on something soft, towel, big rag, piece of foam. With a sharp awl or large nail, insert into one of the holes in the clip, using the barrel as a fulcrum, pry clip away from barrel just enough to clear the lip. Move to the other hole, do the same, then turn over and lift off the perfect handguard assembly. It may be sitting on the towel anyway.
Can't get any more simpler than that, Private.
I agree with shooter, That is the best way, The thing to remember is not to put any pressure on the rear handguard, only on the clip. And when installing a rear handguard apply thumb pressure only to the clip. You cant split the handguard if you dont pry on it. Be sure it is all the way foward into the lower band and you have enough clearence not to splinter it on the front of the reciever. I have done it that way many times and have never broken a rear hand guard, I use a small hammer on the punch/nail with very light blows to remove the handguard. Tom
That is the method that I use. I have a drift pin for one side of the clip and a 16 penny nail for the other side. I put a gun cleaning patch between the drift pin/nail and the barrel before I pry the clip away. I have never had to remove the barrel band yet to get a clip off.Quote:
Originally Posted by 0311Shooter
I use method #2.
Good Luck,
Tommy
I've used a firing pin (a bad one where the tail broke off the rear.) The tip fits the hole in the clip just fine & the large dia behind the tip serves as a fulcrum.
Always used # 1. Never found # 1 to be any problem so I never had reason to use # 2.
Anyone use one of these?
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...09/03/55-1.jpg
Pic from surplusrifle.com
Badger Ordinance Handguard Clip Pliers at Brownells
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...09/03/57-1.jpg
Pic from surplusrifle.com
They look pretty marvy!
Bob
It pays to have a good set of handguard pliers to remove the clip from the handguard. When I use method #2 to remove the handguard from the rifle I use a 1/8" drift pin and a fulcrum against the barrel, padded with a gun cleaning patch against the barrel and a 16 penny nail for the other side with a fulcrum and a gun cleaning patch for padding against the barrel.