I 've had this bolt head for probably 20 years now. Has a "M" stamp I assume is Maltby? I was wondering what it is worth. Has the extractor but no spring. No rust or pitting.
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I 've had this bolt head for probably 20 years now. Has a "M" stamp I assume is Maltby? I was wondering what it is worth. Has the extractor but no spring. No rust or pitting.
Probably about the same as any other bolt head.Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
Some years agoI undertook an evaluation of the bolt head sizes Vs 'numbers' and found that 'number 0' could be bigger than 'number 3'.
If you happen to have a 'long number 3' and someone is struggling with head space it may have some value to them.
Without knowing what size (dimension) it is the answer is 'a piece of string'.
The full post is available somewhere on this forum but I cannot find it.
I also posted it here :
No4 Bolt Head Survey and Instructions
He does say it's a #3... It might bring $30CDN or so. It's worth more to the guy trying to tighten up a loose headspace and not so much to a guy trying to assemble something...at random. Have a look on Ebay or Gunbroker for prices close to you in the USA.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield
And, a number 3 means nothing, a No 0 can be bigger than a No3.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
As I said, it is the actual measurement that is important be it a number 0, number 1 or number 3
Yes, understood. A long "0" can measure like a short "3"...agreed. I've sat and measure too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield
Cannot remember where I got this from maybe from this site years ago you lose track with the web anyway this was a survey done of 0 - 3 #4 boltheads and just shows the dispersion of measurements in the series and it true to what Alan De has said but in saying that as one knows as BIO let us know that the lock up on a Lee enfield is spherical so just changing a bolt head to tighten CHS may put more pressure somewhere else thats what I have learned here since being a member.
Yes - that is 'my' Excel spreadsheet, I posted it along with pictures (and the importance) of overturn, details on how to do a 'quick and dirty' measurement of your actual headspace, and copies of some of Peter Laidler's notes on correct sizing of bolt heads when head-spacing.Quote:
Originally Posted by CINDERS
I posted it here but can no longer find it.
So the "M" could mean it's a medium #3 then. I'll have to measure it, thanks fellas.
No, the M probably does mean Maltby.Quote:
Originally Posted by GaCop
Or malleable iron
The M on the SMLE bolts meant 'mild steel' (although internet 'facts' have suggested it is malleable iron)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bindi2
SMLE Steel Specifications :
Specification No S.A./462 P, being for Rifle's No1 Mklll, with bantam long, normal and short butt (S.M.L.E., .303-in. With cut-off.)
And it says:
Body -- Steel. B.S.S.5005/401 -- Partially oil hardened, tempered and browned.
Barrel -- Steel. D.D.8 -- (Heat treated)
Bolt, Breech -- Steel. D.D.8 -- Oil-hardened, tempered, polished and browned or oil-blacked.
Head, breech bolt -- Steel B.S.S.5005/103 -- Case hardened and polished
Further, on page 8 it states: "If the bolt-head be made of mild steel it is to be marked with the letter "M" on the top of the wing."
NOTE: earlier specifications (S.A./242 for Rifle, Short, Magazine, Lee-Enfield (Mark 1). |C.|) 13th July 1903, called for the bolt-head to be made from malleable cast-iron, specifically 34F Special gun iron, case hardened.
The "M" stamped on a No.4 bolt head is ROF Maltby manufacture.