Does anyone know the type of stain that was used on the L39A1 and L42A1 rifle woodwork? Both for new production and touch up work after repairs and adjustments.
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Does anyone know the type of stain that was used on the L39A1 and L42A1 rifle woodwork? Both for new production and touch up work after repairs and adjustments.
None of my L42a1 and L39a1's have any stain on their wood work only what appears to be linseed oil over the natural color of the wood ..
Yep, stain was never used in service.
Should just be raw linseed oil. Some rifles, like the Ishapores, had a black substance added on top of that to protect against the elements.
All blondes go brown with oil, dust, dirt and handling.
Linseed oil, Raw that is, will oxidize over time giving us the colors we all know and love.
Although it was not used in the manufacture of service arms, Alkanet oil used before applying linseed will slightly darken and improve the appearance of walnut. Unless you were going to rack your rifle in a depot for several years, I would use boiled linseed or one of the linseed blends with tung or other drying agents on new wood rather than raw oil.
I was told that Armourer's workshops had a powder that was added to the warmed tanks of raw linseed oil. No one seems to know exactly what it was but my money is on ground Alkanet root as bomdoc states above. It just makes sense as it's been used in the British gun trade for many years. I actually acquired some root and need to grind some of it up and mix it in a batch of RLO to see this Summer. Stain was definitely used in service. There's no doubt about it but bear in mind that the requirement according to the EMERs was a "reasonable match". When you mix walnut, beech and birch, some old and some new, all on one rifle, it will never be perfect and perfect was not a requirement.
I'd not heard of alkanet I'm ashamed to say, but I'm going to get a packet & do a little experimenting this summer. It seems to be readily available on that internet auction site......
Brian, Joe LeCouffe told me he had read (of course could not remember the source) that during WWII, beet juice was added to the hot linseed oil baths. For what it is worth. best, p.
Anything is possible in a pinch I reckon! It would certainly work.
This is the stuff I use.. seems to work and you are not mucking about with powder etc...
Trade Secret Alkanet Oil - John Knibbs International Ltd
I have used trade secrets products for many years, and have always been pleased with the result!
Here is another supplier in the UK
Gunguard Alkanet root
A master firearm restoration person I met in the UK that does this for a living told me to;
1. Fill a container with Alkanet root chips.
2. Add pure raw linseed oil until the root is covered
3. seal the jar up and let it sit for a month, shaking it daily.
On the other hand; The formula from The Modern Gunsmith published in 1941 (not so modern) is;
"
1 pint raw linseed oil
1 oz. Alkanet root
30 cc. turpentine
200 gr. lampblack
Boil these, taking care that the turpentine does not come in contact with the fame, or it will ignite. Let cool, and apply to the stock once every two days, until the wood ceases to absorb any more. Let stand for one week and polish first with No. 3/0 steel wool and then with rottenstone on a rubber pad or sponge. The stock will now have a wonderfully pleasing appearance, as the color will come out with the real antique tone which everyone admires." (Howe, 1941)
I have since modified the first formula by making and using Polymerized Linseed Oil which drys faster. PM me and I will send you the instruction for making Polymerized Linseed Oil.
Your choice of methods. But either way, you don't slop this stuff on. Put a few drops on the palm of your hand and rub it into the stock, the oil will get warm while you rub it in which helps activate and set the oil. After a few hours, put a little of the oil on a clean rag and rub it in the stock. With the same rag rub the stock with a lot of pressure until its dry then just rub it clean with your hands. Let it set another two or three hours and repeat.
You have a point and IF you did not care to perform a restoration of a firearm to as near as original as possible then by all means have fun with the chemicals. But restoration doing is as little as possible to the article and matching what exists to as near as possible, it would not be called restoration otherwise. I would not Purdey sidelock shotgun, slap a little Minwax stain on it, some BLO or Poly, and call it good. Craftsman made that shotgun and it should restored the same way.