My restored Long Branch

Here are a few detailed photos of my "new" Long Branch.
I know very little about Enfields, as I mostly collect American milsurps.
However, I ran into a great deal on this rifle. A previous owner had carved his initials into both sides of the buttstock, and carved a design into the lower part of the stock.
He had also cut away part of the lower handguard. So, a new handguard, and some careful, but judicious sanding, along with stripping, staining, and BLO, the wood was once again good.
Some fine oil, and bronze wool removed the surface rust and leaves me with a pretty nice looking No. 4. I fired a few rounds today and I have a horizontal stringing issue.
Vertically, at nearly a hundred yards, all my rounds were within an inch or so.
Horizontally, they were separated by about 18 inches.
Now, that may just be trigger control because the Enfield trigger is nothing like what I am used to. But, assuming it is not me, is there any common reason for horizontal stringing in these rifles? I really like this rifle, just gotta get a little better shooting it.Attachment 109107Attachment 109108Attachment 109109Attachment 109110Attachment 109111Attachment 109112Attachment 109113Attachment 109114Attachment 109115Attachment 109116

Very nice!!! Now I want one.

Thanks. I got a great deal on this one, so it was hard to pass up.

Nice purchase and very good-looking rifle. You mentioned you are familiar with US milsurps, but not so much with Enfields. I would have to guess your vertical stringing is caused by improper stock bedding. Now I don't mean for you to slop a bunch of acraglas or other bedding compound into the stock. Attached below is a quick link to Peter Laidler's on line tutorials regarding the proper set up of a No4 forend.

http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...0correctly.pdf

If the barrel is not supported from the stock (at the muzzle), the barrel will produce stringing like you are experiencing. Also, if the trigger guard collar is too long or short, wild groups like this will occur as well. Also, if the front of the handguard is pressing down on the barrel (at the muzzle) you'll get weird groupings too. Read the article carefully, and take your time on the work.

Good luck

Put the sling hooks to the outside.

Thanks. An article like that is exactly what I was looking for.

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Originally Posted by daveboy

Vertically, at nearly a hundred yards, all my rounds were within an inch or so.
Horizontally, they were separated by about 18 inches.

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Lateral spread usually indicates an elbow position change. Before undertaking a personality change for the rifle, maybe a sandbag on the shooting bench or a two point sling and sandbag...and prone position.

Rifle looks very good now...

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Lateral spread usually indicates an elbow position change. Before undertaking a personality change for the rifle, maybe a sandbag on the shooting bench or a two point sling and sandbag...and prone position.

Rifle looks very good now...

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Thanks! I think you are probably correct. The foreend appears to be the one that probably came with the rifle, so I'd have to assume that if it isn't damaged, or cut up, then it is probably bedded pretty close to accurately. I know my trigger control was horrible during this short shooting session. I was standing, using a rest, and that trigger pull is totally unlike what I am used to. I think the Enfield is a great design, but that trigger.....

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Originally Posted by daveboy

I was standing,

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K, that'll do it. You simply MUST rest using shot bags or sand bag and perhaps even take a second man along to prove the rifle. Make sure you have reliable ammo. The triggers are two stage and do some dry firing first to get accustomed...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

K, that'll do it. You simply MUST rest using shot bags or sand bag and perhaps even take a second man along to prove the rifle. Make sure you have reliable ammo. The triggers are two stage and do some dry firing first to get accustomed...

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Oh, I'm used to a two-stage trigger, but more in line with a Mauser, or a Springfield. That Enfield trigger is a different animal.

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Originally Posted by daveboy

That Enfield trigger is a different animal.

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Yes...but not so bad. Just a bit higher hill to climb.

Well, it is a long pull for sure, and the lock time seems excessive to me. But, I'm just not used to it, I might need to do a little polishing on the bearing surfaces, but before I do that I will shoot it some more and just see if I can get used to it. Heck, I'm not a competition shooter, nor a hunter, so as long as I can kick up dirt I am happy!

Don't polish any thing. Practice is the key the let off pulls are critical and work very well if not messed with.

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Originally Posted by daveboy

Well, it is a long pull for sure, and the lock time seems excessive to me.

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Remember, the basic LE dates back to 1890, little earthshaking really changed since then to the lock time. Worked fine up to the last ones made in Britain, still later in India.

Like I said, I just have to get used to it. Used to Springfield and Mauser triggers.

Back in the day, Lee Enfield parts were plentiful and over the years I've restored several, almost exclusively Long Branch and only the walnut stocked ones. Now Long Branch parts are scarce as are good candidates for restoration, but here's a before and after pic of a nice one I picked up at a local auction. It had been set up for target shooting with the PH 5C target sight, and though I had a military sight for it, I decided to keep the target sight on the rifle. Now I wish I hadn't sold it as Long Branch LE's in good shape are climbing steadily in value and harder and harder to find. As an aside, the old Arsenal Lands aren't too far from my place.

Daveboy, I'm surprised you find the LE trigger pull to be much worse than your other rifles. I shoot Mausers, Springfield and Lee Enfields, and the trigger pulls on mine are all pretty similar. I suggest measure your trigger pull with a home -made weight gauge, and if it is excessive, the experts on here will give you a step-by-step account of how to check where the problem lies and how to remedy it. The "correct" FIRST pull should be 3 to 4 pounds pressure, and the SECOND pull off pressure of between 5 and 6.5 pounds. The attached picture shows one way of making a weight gauge: I'd make the "weight" in the form of a cup, weigh the whole thing empty, and add weights into the cup.

later model No.4 rifles had a different trigger set up, but I'm guessing that yours is the standard WW2 one that was fitted to the trigger guard and pivots on the locating pin.

I've owned (and still own) a number of Long Branch/Savage/British No.4 rifles where the triggers ranged from atrocious to really good. A lot depends on the condition of the cocking piece face that engages the sear, as well as the sear itself, tension on the spring and lateral play where the pin locates in the guard.

While I've modded a couple of mine to single stage in sporter variants, I suggest you stick to the two stage set up in the interest of safety. It's just two easy to make a botch of it unless you really have experience in that area. I've seen some downright dangerous amateur jobs.

If you are unfamiliar with Enfields, then a competent gunsmith could smooth things up for you, or you could gently polish up the contact surfaces with a buffing wheel. Because of the cock on close nature of the Lee action, you can develop ridges and scoring on the engaging face of the cocking piece, which can be carefully dressed with a very fine stone, paying attention not to alter any angles, and then polishing with autosol or the like.

Stay away from files, and only dress and polish minimally to smooth things out. Sarco can provide spare parts for these rifles if the trigger components are particularly scored or worn. They are a great rifle, and very robust, so you should have a lot of fun with it.

Looks good! I'm in the process of restoring a sporterized Long Branch right now.

To add to Bindi's correct and helpful suggestion: if you're unaware, your sling is on back to front.

The closed head of the rivet faces up against the furniture, the base of the rivet is hidden against the inside of the sling, The hooks point towards the 'outside' away from the furniture. So, pretty much 180 degrees from the way you currently have it fixed.

Good work on the restoration, and as noted above, don't be fiddling with any polishing of sears. They work fine the way they are meant to. It's the operator that adjusting ;)