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It's the first time I've been on the Enfield page but have had one for several years. After looking in the old threads and not finding what I'm looking for I would like to ask the experts. Can I just change one No.1 MKIII bolt for another or do I need it headspaced or anything else?
Often they will not interchange, and the use of the correct gauges is desirable to check CHS, striker protrusion, bolthead overturn, etc.
Thank you. That's discouraging. My bolt seems to have broke somehow. I took it to a gunsmith who said a "clip" or some piece broke off the bolt and it wouldn't close properly, which it doesn't. I finally found one on GB and bought it. I might have wasted $125.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk VII
The bolts are not directly interchangeable, they certainly are not 'plug & play' & whilst it may 'fit and function', it needs 'FITTING' (as in work needed grinding etc) properly otherwise it could take all the recoil on one locking lug, which could lead to lug failure.
It is not impossible to 'fit' an old bolt into an old rifle but it does take some skill and knowledge.
In addition as MKVII said, there are all sorts of little bits & pieces that need tuning to get it to specification.
If the original bolt body and bolt head are still ok, you may be able to replace the faulty part with one from the "new" bolt and make up a serviceable, properly headspaced bolt. Any left over serviceable parts you can sell to offset the costs.
Maybe you could show us a pic and we can help a bit more...to see what's actually at fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by SRiverrat11
Right now all I have is my smart phone. So no pictures right now. I will try to figure out pics in a bit. I see no real difference between the two bolts externally. When I pull the old bolt part back(and it pulls the firing pin back) and release it quickly it doesn't snap forward like the replacement bolt does. Could it need a new spring? I no almost nothing about MKIII's.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
Could be any number of reasons but you explain 2 maladies with it A) It wont close 'cause a bit broke off? What bit!! B) Then you say the striker when pulled back part ways wont snap forward like the other bolt it could be full of crap inside the bolt youve owned it for several years shooting it and we know little of how you cared for the rifle. We as shooters do pull the bolts down to clean the internals check protrusion and the F.P head for roundness and ensure the inside is clean and lightly lubricated. Who knows the spring may be cactus I always relieve the striker spring tension when my bolts are out of the rifle and stored. I'm just wondering if the bolt is at half cock you wont close the bolt on half cock anyway there are plenty smarter gunny's here than my experience with the Lee line.:dunno:
The rifle bolt had two malfunctions after firing it(6+ years ago) I took it to a gunsmith who I don't think knew much about military weapons( I had him look at an M1 Carbine for me too. I knew more) He said I needed a new bolt because a clip broke off, and the bolt would not close properly if I fired it again. The rifle has set for quite awhile. Now, I've found a replacement bolt and started this thread. After taking the bolts apart as far as I could, and oiling them I'm finding both bolts work well in the rifle. I still need to find someone who knows LE's a little because I don't want the bolt coming back at me if I fire it.Quote:
Originally Posted by CINDERS
This is the bolt the gunsmith said was broke.
I don't see anything broken there, is the extractor spring serviceable? I can see the back of it at least, why won't this one go in and close?
it does now after I took the bolt apart as far as I could and poured oil through it. I can't see anything wrong with it, but I had a gunsmith say don't use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
The under lug Pic #2 appears to have a chunk (May be a piece of dirt!) out of it can you get a pic of that, also seems allot of rust coming out over the F.P and on the towel from the B.H threads from the oil you poured in there!
Take a pic of the little lug on the bottom of the bolt that Cinders is suggesting. Make sure you check to see it's clean first. The firing pin can come out but there's a tool you need for stripping it, you can make one. The inside does need cleaning too.
Hopefully this helps. It wouldnt surprise me if theres rust in there. it has sat for six plus years, two of which in West Virginia{very humid there and I was gone all the time} Im a Rocky Mtn oilfield worker so Ive had a lot of time to catch up on everything the last couple of months.
BAR has suggested the lug underneath near the nose of the striker Pic #1
---------- Post added at 11:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:14 AM ----------
That bit goes into the left wall of the receiver in the bolt race
Hopefully this lug is what you need
Well all I can say is to get the bolt tool and get the firing pin/spring out and check the internals then see whats going on then I guess its find a gunsmith that knows the lee enfield line.
The safety stud in the cam-track area of the bolt body looks a bid odd, "texture-wise". If that stud or its mate on the cocking piece are "missing or significantly damage, there is a major safety issue. Other than that, ??
My thoughts too. A clearer pic of the stud would help. It is not that uncommon for them to break off so it's conceivable it could have been rewelded.......I'm not saying it has been, just that that is possible. (I have a bag full of SMLE bolt bodies with this stud snapped off that came to me among a load of tat bought in an auction years ago). The locking lug looks fine from the view we have of it, but another from 180 degrees would be nice so we can see the other side. But when all is said & done you could really do with someone like Brian Dick looking it over for you....
Looking at the third photo you posted; the one showing the underside of the bolt-head, maybe your gun-plumber meant "lip" not "clip". Unless the bolt-head is retained in the "groove" along the right side of the body, it will make closing the bolt difficult, to say the least. When you put the bolt in, does the bolt-head "clip" firmly over the little machined spring plate, (Spring, Retaining), just in front of the RH locking shoulder?
If the bolt-head is not fully engaged with this spring and thus, the guide groove forward of it, the extractor will foul the body and prevent bolt closure.
If the "Spring, retaining" is in good condition, but there is no positive "click" when you press the bolt-head down, the problem may be as simple as a loose retaining screw allowing the spring to flop about a bit. annoyingly, the fore-end has to be removed to tighten that screw. This will also entail the removal of the outer band (the front band with the sling swivel on it). This, in turn normally requires that the screw in that band must be removed. DO NOT just try to wind it out with the "big screwdriver" or you will mangle the threads in the band. On all original fittings, the end of the screw has a hollow end which is flared outwards with a punch, so that it stays in place. The trick is to CAREFULLY drill into the flared-out hollow end until it no longer binds on the thread in the band.They have a bastard, "Enfield special" thread (usually). Most purveyors of fine Lee Enfield parts will have these screws in stock because they were a "disposable" item, being removed EVERY time the fore-end was removed for examination or repairs. If and when you remove this screw, use a single, tiny drop of Loctite to retain the new one as it is correctly torqued up. (Hand-guard should not rattle, band should not move but the sling swivel should be free to move).
Options, then:
Damaged bolt-head; REPLACE, which is NOT as simple a task as might be imagined.
Broken or worn / distorted retaining spring: (replace),
Or a loose screw: (Tighten). That screw also doubles as the pivot for the sear, so it needs to be in good conditions and firmly snugged up in the correct place.
Here are what I think is the only angles not captured before. The old bolt is on the right, the replacement bolt is left. Both bolts are now functioning properly in the rifle. I do need to figure out a way to make the FP removal tool that I did not know existed before yesterday. I really appreciate the help you have all given me.
Agreed, that would be cause for concern and it well may be broken. You almost need to turn the cocking piece out of the way, pull it back and turn it aside. Pic of the area...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce_in_Oz
Also the firing pin tool... https://www.libertytreecollectors.co...?idproduct=584
Thanks BAR, Your last pic made me look and there's definitely part of that scraped/broken off. I put the additional pics above this post.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
If you pull back on the spring loaded cocking piece and turn it away from the bolt handle you will show the spot clearly...might help. Yes, it looks damaged.
Well, this doesnt look good. How important is that lug?
Perfect picture...the bolt is hooped. That's a safety feature. The bolt body is done...Quote:
Originally Posted by SRiverrat11
Put it this way - "Do you want a bolt sticking out of your forehead ?"Quote:
Originally Posted by SRiverrat11
The bolt will cycle but will be highly dangerous as you will not have a properly functioning safety......
That replacement bolt now needs fitting properly. At least you have spares that you can salvage off the broken bolt body.......everything else is potentially still usable & has a value.
Well its a month later, I took my rifle to a gunsmith who said he could rebuild the bolt and headspace the rifle. I picked it up the other day with the bolt rebuilt and asked if it was hard to headspace? The reply I received was, I dont have the tools to headspace this.........So, does anyone know a gunsmith I can ship this to in the States that can headspace it? Wyoming is not the milsurps gunsmith capiltal of the country. Well heck. I just looked where all the Milsurps members on this thread were from. You guys are great, but Australia, England, and Canada are probably not going to be able to help me.
Brian Dick lives in Edgefield SC and is a gunsmith that has handled and rebuilt his share of Lee Enfields, would do it without issue. He's on forum here... Here's his profile, message him. BDL Ltd.Quote:
Originally Posted by SRiverrat11
https://www.milsurps.com/member.php?u=2818
Thanks! I PM'd him.Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
Quote:
Originally Posted by SRiverrat11
Brian Dick (of this parish) possibly one of the most experienced Enfield plumbers in the US
BDL Ltd
BDL LTD Weapons and Militaria
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield
Oooops - didn't notice there was another page - but - at least we agree BDL is 'the man'.