T-88 for forend repair

New to forum, but have read a ton of material here after visiting a number of other sites. This site appears to be a serious and invaluable resource with a lot of experience and knowledge, so...here I is. I am resurrecting a Fazakerley No 4 mk 1 with a clean, sharp bore and matching numbers including the magazine. With all the debate about adhesives, I wondered if anyone has tried T-88 epoxy to repair a forend for cracks at the tie plate? Based on Cpt. Laidler's info, this would seem an appropriate aero-spec structural adhesive for high stress areas.

Thought?

I use West System marine epoxy for stock repairs and extensions, however no glue will bond well to oil soaked wood even after rigorous degreasing. So I always back up the repair with dowels, tenons or slip patches, just as an armourer back in the day using animal or alphatic wood glue.

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Originally Posted by Roy

I use West System marine epoxy for stock repairs and extensions, however no glue will bond well to oil soaked wood even after rigorous degreasing. So I always back up the repair with dowels, tenons or slip patches, just as an armourer back in the day using animal or alphatic wood glue.

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Thanks for the feedback. I'm replacing the tie plate pin that broke in the first place (one head came off). The forend cracked in the gap between the draws where the pin goes through. I'm hoping to epoxy the crack AND the new brass pin without having to drill new holes. The smallest threaded wire I can locate is 3/32 which is larger than the existing holes in the plate and stock and don't want to try a "perfect" drill in both as they would have to be.

Ive never re-done the wire re-enforcement before but I have seen original wire being sold on various sites on occasion. However larger wire will help with the strength of the repair. Do the draws of the rifle need re doing as well?

Hey Roy,

The draws appear to be FTR doweled re-dos and the fitment on the stock is tight with proper pressure at the muzzle and spacing at the butt socket.

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Originally Posted by Roy

Ive never re-done the wire re-enforcement before but I have seen original wire being sold on various sites on occasion. However larger wire will help with the strength of the repair. Do the draws of the rifle need re doing as well?

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Thats good, I wonder what caused the crack. Perhaps it was shot with something not tightened or seated properly.

I might likely be the Bubba who put 10 rounds through it when slightly younger and far dumber with the pin broken, having not done my homework. Can't say for sure 'cause I put it away for several years and didn't realize there was damage until I decided to learn about it and stripped it. Lucky too its in really good shape bore and headspace wise, otherwise my not so pretty face could be less so. Since then, did my homework.

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Originally Posted by Roy

Thats good, I wonder what caused the crack. Perhaps it was shot with something not tightened or seated properly.

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---------- Post added at 08:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:02 PM ----------

Might also have been a combo of that and front trigger guard screw not fully tight because it didn't take anything to unscrew it. Not really tight. Everything else checks out. I'll always own my stupidity if I earned it.

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Originally Posted by MatchedFazak48

I might likely be the Bubba who put 10 rounds through it when slightly younger and far dumber with the pin broken, having not done my homework. Can't say for sure 'cause I put it away for several years and didn't realize there was damage until I decided to learn about it and stripped it. Lucky too its in really good shape bore and headspace wise, otherwise my not so pretty face could be less so. Since then, did my homework.

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How is your repair going?

Yep, loose forward tigger guard screw could be the start of the stock issues.

Finally have all items in house to effect repair and restore finish. T-88 aero epoxy, 3/32 brass screw rod and transtint dye along with blo. Fixed two hairline cracks in rear handguard using hot stuff ca. Worked great, but epoxy for the forend. Will glue this weekend.

Definitely hope all goes well. Mechanically everything is in great shape.Action is slick and I got brit spec gauges from Tectal. Spaces on the field with original "0" head but that one overclocks more than I'd like. Bought a complete bolt mainly for the "2" head but also spare pin and spring. Total luck it clocks perfect and passes "no-go" with the #2. Bore is bright and sharp. Even with the cracks, forend needs a tap or two to remove from action and is easily making 80% or more contact at socket having witnessed it and the draws.

Epoxied and clamped. Ran a brass rod through the tie plate pin hole a couple timesto ensure it's clear to avoid having to redrill through epoxy. When set I'll lightly flush surfaces for the squeeze out (all gluing hidden when assembled) then place the tie plate and thread in an epoxied brass screw rod. Trick will be getting the "peen" right to flatten both ends neatly flush. Tricky to dolly one end, peen a head into the other side, then repeat. Originals at least had a head on one end.

Sounds like its going well, If you can, perhaps you can create a head on one end of the wire before setting it in the stock. It will be tricky setting the heads as the wire can buckle inside the stock.

Glue job is SOLID. Now I know what makes airframe adhesive. I mixed way more than needed and let it set up in small cup. Broke it out and for curiosity's sake, gave it a solid whack with a hammer. Not brittle at all. First snag, realized "ears" on tie plate were slightly spread (going back to cause of crack in first place). In trying to gently persuade one back to 90% using a plier, turns out the metal was really brittle. Snapped right off under moderate force. Was holding piece in my hand, not vised. Already ordered two plates with pins but two weeks for arrival. As per your thought, I had thought to use screw wire from Brownell's (have it) but as you say, the risk of bending trying to head both ends after inserting with glue seems high. Using threaded can't really "pre-make" a head as I'd still have to screw it completely flush somehow. Original nos plates and pins coming, we'll go with the NOS approach.

How is your forend repair coming along, Have you got some pic for us?