What to Do With My Daddy's Arisaka Bringback

I have a war souvenir Arisaka Model 38 my Dad brought back from Guam. It is missing the bayonet, the cleaning rod and 1 receiver screw. Unfortunately due to a family dispute the rifle was left lying around exposed to the air and picked up some rust. With the exception of the items mentioned above it appears complete including Chrysanthemum. I would like to go after the rust a little, touch-up the bluing and clean up the wood furniture BUT I would hate to destroy its value in so doing. What is you all's thoughts on this matter? Thanks in advance- Haoleboy greeting you from Hawaii.

You're going to get the phonebook on this one... Many times it's been hashed out here. I use fine steel wool, 0000 fine and rifle oil and it takes off rust without removing blue.

Pics of it's condition would help here, very close clear pics. Also the missing parts can be had...

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Originally Posted by Haoleboy

I have a war souvenir Arisaka Model 38 my Dad brought back from Guam. It is missing the bayonet, the cleaning rod and 1 receiver screw. Unfortunately due to a family dispute the rifle was left lying around exposed to the air and picked up some rust. With the exception of the items mentioned above it appears complete including Chrysanthemum. I would like to go after the rust a little, touch-up the bluing and clean up the wood furniture BUT I would hate to destroy its value in so doing. What is you all's thoughts on this matter? Thanks in advance- Haoleboy greeting you from Hawaii.

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Do not sand or steel wool the woodwork, just rub it down with linseed oil. Otherwise I guarantee you will "destroy its value" to some extent.

Thanks Jim, I'll try and get some pix up. Worst is the first barrel band with the bayonet lug and out to muzzle. Appreciate the help.

---------- Post added at 07:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:07 AM ----------

Thanks for advice, told Jim above I'll try and get some pictures up.

For the rust, 0000 steel wool and LOTS of oil.....For the wood, just a wipe down with some raw linseed oil on a rag then wipe off the residual with a clean cloth (no BLO).....don't touch the bluing, leave it as is other than removing the rust and cleaning it with Hoppes solvent and a protective coat of oil.....lastly, don't take it apart.....you should do well on the sale since this is a good time for sellers!

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Originally Posted by Haoleboy

Model 38 my Dad brought back from Guam

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Would you happen to know what outfit your Dad was with? My grandfather was in the NCB 59 and was in the first echelon in the liberation of GUAM. He landed with the 1st Provisional Marine Brigade and The US Army 77th Infantry Division near Agat to the south on White Beach One (Dati Beach).

My Dad was a Communications Officer (or in the Comm Dept) on a subtender USS Sperry AS-12 as a very junior officer. I guess they made a port call there or were stationed there after the hostilities had wrapped up, he said the weapons were more or less lying around at the time so he bagged a couple. My uncle (Mom's brother) was a Marine in the Tarawa amphibious assault and others.

---------- Post added at 11:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 PM ----------

Not really planning to sell at this time, the weapon has sentimental value. I just want to clean it up without destroying its value. So far 0000 steel wool and oil seem to make it look a whole lot better. I did break it down but it came apart cleanly and should go back nicely.

Be careful sanding the wood as the varnish the Japanese used was from a tree in the Poison Oak family and you can get a reaction from the dust of the varnish.

Don't sand the wood!! Fjruple is correct and even worse it will destroy the historical and financial value of the rifle.

Do not mess with the wood outside wiping it with a paper towel or at most a wipe with Ballistol.

The metal, bronze wool, or very fine steel wool lubed with lots of Kroil Oil. Soak it with Kroil first, for days. The Japanese rifles tolerate 0000 steel wool better than any I have tried it on. Go slow, light and keep it wet and wiped away frequently. Bonze wool is safer they say.

And when you're done with the steel wool, enjoy the process of removing it all. Compressed air or carb cleaner, or both. (This is with the stock removed of course.)

It's SOOOO tempting to starting messing with the woodwork, and it's almost always a mistake, and one you cannot correct. As with antiques of any kind, patina takes decades if not centuries to produce and can be ruined in a few hours.

Now that you have been thoroughly schooled on not altering the wood in any way - skip the ballistol and linseed oil, too. The Japanese used neither on their wood. Just wipe it down with a slightly damp cloth, and not too much elbow grease. It is a war collectible, and is not supposed to look pretty.

I also see that you mentioned touching up the bluing. No. That is not a good idea either. Active rust can be addressed with the methods mentioned above. I use a bronze brush and oil. Steel wool leaves behind small bits of steel wool, and they begin to rust again in a month if you can't get rid of them entirely. Bronze brush. It does the job with a little oil.

Some pics when you can! Thanks for wanting to preserve a family heirloom.