I have been reading that the .40S&W is prone to case failure in glocks. I'm shooting a S&W sigma and would like to know if the sigma is safe to reload for. S&w says in its manual not to use reloads
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I have been reading that the .40S&W is prone to case failure in glocks. I'm shooting a S&W sigma and would like to know if the sigma is safe to reload for. S&w says in its manual not to use reloads
Ok lets try this another way. Is there any reason why I shouldn't reload for the S&W Sigma pistol in .40S&W?
I have been reloading for my glock 23c for a couple of years with no proublems at all. The cases do have a slight bulge just above the web after being fired due to the unsupported space in the chamber. I have read that reloading is not reccomended for that reason. In a Glock you have to use jacketed bullets due to the polyogynal (how ever its spelled) rifleing. I use berrys plated bullets,they are cheaper than jacketed. I have been reloading for 35 years and reload just about everything. Tom
I'm shooting reloads in a CZ 75 with no problems.
I'am about to start loading 40 S&W using jacketed 180's. Just wondering what powders would work best?
I use w231 for most of the pistol calibers when using jacketed bullets. Works very good in the .40s&w . It meters good in a dillon 550.
I always had good luck using Accurate Arms #7 in my Glock 23. I preferred the 180 gr range bullets. Check your reloading manual, but It seems that a starting load was 7.9 grs. The AA #7 always worked in my full sized 10 MM too. (different load of course)
Mike1947
I noticed the #7 load data in my book (Lees Modern Reloading) but I dont have any & no place around here to get it. I've got #2 & 5 but dont think those will work. I've got a 4lb jug of 231 but its 15 years old & I dont have load data for powder that old. I bought it to use on 45acp but never did. When I started reloading in the mid 90's, accurate powder was what I used for all pistol & rifle. I could get it for 10-12 dollars a pound when the others about 14-15. All of the local stores that did sell reloading supplies have gone out of business. Closest store is Walmart 75 miles south of here & they dont carry any accurate powder. I hate to waste a 4lb jug of good powder.
kd5kpd I see a load in one of the AA Reloading guides for AA#2. Same bullet weight using a starting load of 5.0 And a AA#5 load of 6.5 to start. Might want to check our some other manuals for a 231 load. This book says:
AA#2 5.0 min and 5.3 max
AA#5 6.5 min and 7.2 max
Both using 180gr bullets. Just be careful, start at the min and watch for pressure signs, as you move up and don't exceed a recommended max. Good Luck.
I have reloaded and fired several thousand rounds of .40 S&W in my Glock 23 on my Dillion 550B. I use 4.4 grains of Titegroup with 180 grain jacketed bullets. When I first started loading the .40 S&W I'd heard all the 'stories'. For my own satisfaction, I bought 100 rounds of new brass and loaded them up and kept them seperate from other ammo when I fired them. I collected the brass, cleaned, and reloaded them again. Keeping these rounds segregated, I was able to shoot and reload them twelve times with no issues whatsoever. Just for superstitious reasons, I decided not to reload them the 13th time and I trashed the brass. My point is, with reasonable loads there is no reason to be concerned about reloading the .40 S&W round any more than any other round, and no reason to be concerned about reloading brass fired from a Glock or shooting reloads in a Glock.
I have been shooting a G35 in IPSC for years. I've heard the rumors of case failures, exploding pistols, etc., but have never met one person who has first hand knowledge of ANY issues with Glock 40's and reloading problems. Go for it, especially with the price of ammo.
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