Springfield Krag rifle builder.

:D:):D:)

Hello everyone, I have a collection of military rifles that keeps growing and growing. :D
Here in Alaska during the winter snow, I try and keep busy, one of the best ways to keep busy is to build old firearms from scratch using factory original parts. ;)

From the beginning of my collection, I realized that a old firearm could be jacked up, dangerous to shoot, basically a pile of junk and that's why I build them so they are period correct down to the last nut and screw, the headspace is correct so I can shoot any rifle or handgun in my armory. These rifles were made to go into battle, so I don't have any hesitation in shooting them, I need the finish the same, and the stock, to keep it original. Here in Alaska we can have any firearm in the world as long as it is ATF approved, which means we have a lot of firearms to choose from. I personally have a lot of firearms from around the world, mostly military.

I have learned that forums are a great resource for knowledge, research, and books. If you don't mind me picking your knowledge, I have some questions.

I purchased the Joe Poyer book on Krag rifles, his books are great, and it really has in depth information on the parts. I've used his books before and I keep notes inside them for a lot of rifles in my armory.

I want to post some questions with this thread and hopefully get some answers.

Attachment 115831

Mostly everything is explained in my research, except for the extractor spring. The diagram doesn't show the extractor spring and I am trying to locate the place for which it fits.

Attachment 115832

As you can see it is not shown in the diagram.

Attachment 115833

It fits in the front of the extractor...in the corresponding hole and slot. The book shows this spring is not essential but added merely as a precautionary measure... Shown roughly circled.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

It fits in the front of the extractor...in the corresponding hole and slot. The book shows this spring is not essential but added merely as a precautionary measure... Shown roughly circled.

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Cool, and thanks, I appreciate your help.

FWIW - Page #145 of Poyer's book, "The American Krag Rifle and Carbine", has a drawing of the left-side of the Krag Extractor, that attempts to show the recess where the Extractor-Spring is located.

IMHO - There are some 'sub-assemblies' on U.S. Krag models, that were not intended to be taken fully apart, except for repair. These 'sub-assemblies' can be cleaned and lubricated as a unit.
Examples would be: the safety-lever, the magazine cut-off lever, the Striker-rod & Knob, and the bolt-sleeve/extractor/extractor-spring assembly.
These sub-assemblies have some small parts, (springs, rivets, and shaped pieces), that are staked or crimped into place. Taking them apart causes needless wear. :nono:

The Krag Extractor is kind of a marvelous flame-blued "wonder spring", with an extractor 'claw' hanging on its end.
It serves as an extractor, a bolt-guide, a bolt hold-open spring, and a bolt 'release'.
Through good metallurgy and heat-treat, it is a surprisingly strong part.

The Krag extractor (which is a tempered spring) is assisted by a subtly positioned second spring (the extractor-spring).
As the Krag Bolt moves forward and nears the point of rotation, the beveled front edge of the extractor-spring slides under a 'shelf' milled into the left receiver wall and adds further tension to the extractor-claw's engagement with the cartridge rim.

Attachment 115861Attachment 115862Attachment 115863Attachment 115864Attachment 115865

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

FWIW - Page #145 of Poyer's book, "The American Krag Rifle and Carbine", has a drawing of the left-side of the Krag Extractor, that attempts to show the recess where the Extractor-Spring is located.

IMHO - There are some 'sub-assemblies' on U.S. Krag models, that were not intended to be taken fully apart, except for repair. These 'sub-assemblies' can be cleaned and lubricated as a unit.
Examples would be: the safety-lever, the magazine cut-off lever, the Striker-rod & Knob, and the bolt-sleeve/extractor/extractor-spring assembly.
These sub-assemblies have some small parts, (springs, rivets, and shaped pieces), that are staked or crimped into place. Taking them apart causes needless wear. :nono:

The Krag Extractor is kind of a marvelous flame-blued "wonder spring", with an extractor 'claw' hanging on its end.
It serves as an extractor, a bolt-guide, a bolt hold-open spring, and a bolt 'release'.
Through good metallurgy and heat-treat, it is a surprisingly strong part.

The Krag extractor (which is a tempered spring) is assisted by a subtly positioned second spring (the extractor-spring).
As the Krag Bolt moves forward and nears the point of rotation, the beveled front edge of the extractor-spring slides under a 'shelf' milled into the left receiver wall and adds further tension to the extractor-claw's engagement with the cartridge rim.

Attachment 115861Attachment 115862Attachment 115863Attachment 115864Attachment 115865

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Thanks!

I can see the place where it fits into, that's awesome thanks. I didn't know that the extractor had it attached on to it, but it is there.


Attachment 115866

Thanks again.

I can't understand why the rear sights go for so much money, $200.00 and up. It's crazy to me that the whole complete sight is like gold.

I found a complete base and ladder for $50.00, missing the ladder sights, then for $40.00 found the missing parts. I can live with scrounging for parts. ;)

I love scrounging parts and completing and restoring damaged Krag sights. (military and commercial)

Until recently, good Krag rifle sights routinely sold from $45 to $75 on ebay.
Carbine rear-sight models have long brought a premium, selling for three to ten times the amount of the rifle version.

Krag parts are getting more difficult to find and prices are getting silly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

I love scrounging parts and completing and restoring damaged Krag sights. (military and commercial)

Until recently, good Krag rifle sights routinely sold from $45 to $75 on ebay.
Carbine rear-sight models have long brought a premium, selling for three to ten times the amount of the rifle version.

Krag parts are getting more difficult to find and prices are getting silly.

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I have been fortunate enough to find most of the receiver parts, stock parts, checking all over the web for a good price, quality parts, it's really good when you can visually inspect each part for any issues before putting it together. I still have to locate a stock, however I'm not ready to start that part of my search.
Again, I am on the hunt for: good condition parts, excellent screws, nothing to be refinished, same for the wooden stock, forearm.

I have all of the parts, only exception is the wood.

Right now I am contemplating on re-indexing the barrel, reamer the 30-40 chamber to close the no-go gap.

Do you think that it would affect the rear sight position to the wooden stock?

What makes you think you have a headspace problem?

In my experience, Krag barrel index marks usually line-up with the receiver index mark, when putting a loose barrel on a receiver.
(BTW - Early barrels have a 'flat' breech-face and need the rear barrel-thread to be slightly 'beveled', in order to fully seat against the inside flange of later model 1898 & 1899 receivers).

Krag index marks need to line-up for the sight-screw holes & front-sight to be 'plumb'. This is also required in order for the extractor-notch to properly line-up.

Krag headspace is surprisingly tolerant and easily solved by switching to a 'newish' bolt.

Most Krag bolts will not close on a .073 inch thick 'Field Gauge', which is a better standard for Krags than a 'No-Go Gauge).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

What makes you think you have a headspace problem?

In my experience, Krag barrel index marks usually line-up with the receiver index mark, when putting a loose barrel on a receiver.
(BTW - Early barrels have a 'flat' breech-face and need the rear barrel-thread to be slightly 'beveled', in order to fully seat against the inside flange of later model 1898 & 1899 receivers).

Krag index marks need to line-up for the sight-screw holes & front-sight to be 'plumb'. This is also required in order for the extractor-notch to properly line-up.

Krag headspace is surprisingly tolerant and easily solved by switching to a 'newish' bolt.

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Thanks

KRAG GUIDE LIP

I've checked out the diagrams, and I can't figure where it specifically goes, nothing shows where it goes.

Attachment 115998


I have all of the parts for the rifle, barrel, I will be assembling everything soon.

I am going to be looking for the wooden stock, handguard however I don't want to get a safe queen, I eat a good condition used stock with character.

I received a barrel with a excellent bore, the finish is excellent.

Attachment 115999

Attachment 116000

Attachment 116001

It should be fine, I just need the no go gauge to be on target.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 99621

KRAG GUIDE LIP

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It's rivetted to the bottom of the magazine floor. Look inside the magazine to the rear for the opposite hole for the rivet.

Your Krag action probably already has the 'guide lip' in place.

The rivet that anchors it in place is almost invisible, so the part seems integral with the receiver.

BTW - U.S. Krag Barrels were completely finished, ('clocked' threads & index marked, front-sight base brazed on, rear-sight holes drilled & tapped, proofed & marked, chamber completed, extractor-notch cut, and rust 'browned'/blued).

The Krag barrel never met its case hardened receiver, until the completely finished barrel was screwed on to the receiver and the index marks lined-up.

Krag barrels were basically made "interchangeable". 'Finish chamber-reaming', after barrel installation, and fitting the bolt were not required, like nowadays.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

Krag barrels were basically made "interchangeable". 'Finish chamber-reaming', after barrel installation, and fitting the bolt were not required, like nowadays.

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My krag has had three barrels on it.
The original that had been drilled out to deactivate it.
The replacement that I cheaped out on and had a bad bore.
The second replacement with a good bore.

All three indexed properly and the two replacements showed no signs of excessive headspace. From a manufacturing standpoint, that’s frankly AMAZING.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

It's rivetted to the bottom of the magazine floor. Look inside the magazine to the rear for the opposite hole for the rivet.

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Thanks, will do it.

---------- Post added at 08:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:08 AM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

Your Krag action probably already has the 'guide lip' in place.

The rivet that anchors it in place is almost invisible, so the part seems integral with the receiver.

BTW - U.S. Krag Barrels were completely finished, ('clocked' threads & index marked, front-sight base brazed on, rear-sight holes drilled & tapped, proofed & marked, chamber completed, extractor-notch cut, and rust 'browned'/blued).

The Krag barrel never met its case hardened receiver, until the completely finished barrel was screwed on to the receiver and the index marks lined-up.

Krag barrels were basically made "interchangeable". 'Finish chamber-reaming', after barrel installation, and fitting the bolt were not required, like nowadays.

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Awesome, one less thing to worry about, I have a no go gauge for the Krag.

---------- Post added at 08:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:13 AM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rcathey

My krag has had three barrels on it.
The original that had been drilled out to deactivate it.
The replacement that I cheaped out on and had a bad bore.
The second replacement with a good bore.

All three indexed properly and the two replacements showed no signs of excessive headspace. From a manufacturing standpoint, that’s frankly AMAZING.

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Amazing for a 100+ year old barrel, mine is still in excellent shape. Thanks.

The old rifles are a testament to time, much more importantly is that they are still able to be used without any danger to the shooter, as long as the rifle is in excellent working condition. That's why I personally check out every part of the rifle while building it, cleaning it, making sure the screws are perfect with no buggered up heads.
Attachment 116020
Every firearm in my armory has perfect screws, when my M38 Fucile Corto came in I found several buggered screws, sourced some good replacement screws and it's beautiful.

More Krag information, progress to follow. :D

God's praises to those, who own guns and use proper fitting screwdrivers!

A 'Field Gauge' with a rim thickness of .073 or .074 inches is probably the most useful with U.S. Krags.
A 'Go Gauge' is relatively useless, unless fitting a newly manufactured barrel to an action.

Many Krag's may close on a 'No-Go Gauge', but, be totally safe, gentle on Brass, and have many years of shooting left in them.

"Grandpa's Gun Parts" has original NOS model 1898 Krag bolts available for around $60.

Neck-Sizing .30-40 Brass, by backing-off the re-sizing Die one turn, extends case life and avoids needlessly 'working' the case-shoulder.

On the breech end of the barrel is a stamped numbers. My book P.100 "The American Krag Rifle and Carbine" states that the Reports of the Chief of Ordnance to the Secretary of War for the year the year it was manufactured.
Attachment 116022
It's rather vague on the report year to get a copy to read, anyone have some information about it?

I have no idea what you are referring to in the Poyer book. Page 100 in the 2nd & 3rd editions has 'table 2-9' - with notes on Krag receiver changes.

There are many 'hieroglyphics' on U.S. Krag parts, that meant something to Armory workers 'back in the day', but, pose an enigma, now.

A lot of these odd markings indicated that a part had passed a sub-inspection, as it moved through the manufacturing process.

The Krag receiver went through something like 125 machining operations, as it went from a 6 pound forging to a finished 1 and 1/2 pound heat-treated product ready for assembly.

The Krag barrel went through approximately 30 manufacturing operations.

The markings on the Krag barrel breech are not a date or date code. They are believed to signify the 'Steel Lot' a barrel was manufactured from.
(This would be useful in 'tracking', if problems developed with barrels from a certain lot of contracted steel).

The 'bevel' or radius at the rear of your barrel-shank, would indicate the barrel was made sometime after June,1899. Poyer reports the change to the breech-face, from square to radiused corner, happened around serial number 213,000.

(Some Hoppe's #9 and a bronze brush should clean those spots of rust and crud from the breech-face and extractor-notch).

I altered your photo to show the radius that was added to the Krag barrel around #213000.
Attachment 116023

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

I have no idea what you are referring to in the Poyer book. Page 100 in the 2nd & 3rd editions has 'table 2-9' - with notes on Krag receiver changes.

There are many 'hieroglyphics' on U.S. Krag parts, that meant something to Armory workers 'back in the day', but, pose an enigma, now.

A lot of these odd markings indicated that a part had passed a sub-inspection, as it moved through the manufacturing process.

The Krag receiver went through something like 125 machining operations, as it went from a 6 pound forging to a finished 1 and 1/2 pound heat-treated product ready for assembly.

The Krag barrel went through approximately 30 manufacturing operations.

The markings on the Krag barrel breech are not a date or date code. They are believed to signify the 'Steel Lot' a barrel was manufactured from.
(This would be useful in 'tracking', if problems developed with barrels from a certain lot of contracted steel).

The 'bevel' or radius at the rear of your barrel-shank, would indicate the barrel was made sometime after June,1899. Poyer reports the change to the breech-face, from square to radiused corner, happened around serial number 213,000.

(Some Hoppe's #9 and a bronze brush should clean those spots of rust and crud from the breech-face and extractor-notch).

I altered your photo to show the radius that was added to the Krag barrel around #213000.
Attachment 116023

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Thanks, I really appreciate your information, the barrel hasn't been cleaned up yet, I just received it in the mail. I need to scrub the bore, shank, but not the exterior of the barrel I want it to be left alone.
Attachment 116026
This is the Krag book I'm using to help me identify the parts. I deducted the barrel had the radius also.

Again, thanks

Attachment 116027

I have 2nd and 3rd editions of Poyer's book. Page #100 has tables citing changes to receiver.
Your page #100 is page 96 in my copies of Poyer.

Is your book the 1st edition?

I believe Poyer was simply saying that the breech marking identified the steel maker of a Krag barrel.

Poyer was also stating the Chief of Ordnance Annual Reports mentioned the steel manufacturers used in a given year.

I don't believe a 'Rosetta stone' has been found to decode these markings, the code of which was once known. (Some things do get forgotten or lost or are yet to be rediscovered).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

I have 2nd and 3rd editions of Poyer's book. Page #100 has tables citing changes to receiver.
Your page #100 is page 96 in my copies of Poyer.

Is your book the 1st edition?

I believe Poyer was simply saying that the breech marking identified the steel maker of a Krag barrel.

Poyer was also stating the Chief of Ordnance Annual Reports mentioned the steel manufacturers used in a given year.

I don't believe a 'Rosetta stone' has been found to decode these markings, the code of which was once known. (Some things do get forgotten or lost or are yet to be rediscovered).

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I have the 3rd edition. Thanks for your help, after 125 years paperwork does get lost. I'm sure this will be period correct after I get finished, the book is a treasure trove of information.

I am also using the military handbook for reference also. :D I just enjoy a firearm that is 100% safe to use, after I'm finished it will be a great shooter. Here in Alaska we can have just about any firearm that was ever made as long as it is ATF approved.

Attachment 116038

I got around to cleaning the receiver, it was packed in grease.
Attachment 116113
I have found some awesome stamps on the receiver, and the barrel synched down, with only a 1/4" turn to the witness line. It's looking really good.
Attachment 116114

Getting the receiver assembled, still need a couple of parts, I got screwed on a couple of parts not 1898 model, when in fact it was a earlier model.
Attachment 116115

The receiver is actually quite beautiful, it has been packed in grease, I have installed all of the parts so far and everything fits perfectly in the receiver.

Attachment 116116

The slide I ordered does not fit, a 1901 rear sight.
Attachment 116117
Any idea what I screwed up on?
Attachment 116118

The slide in your photo is for the model 1896 rifle sight.

attached: picture of 1896 slide and 1901 slide

Attachment 116127Attachment 116128

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

The slide in your photo is for the model 1896 rifle sight.

attached: picture of 1896 slide and 1901 slide

Attachment 116127Attachment 116128

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Thanks for everything, Numrich said it was the correct part, but we do make mistakes.

I've been everywhere looking for the part and I can't find it. Last time this happened it took me 6 months to find one.

I guess I will have to keep looking Periodically for the part. Now I need to focus on the wood.

The Krag sight-slide photos that Numrich has on their website, listed as "1901" parts, are actually for the model 1901 sight.

Granpa's Gun Parts has the top-plate, eye-piece, and other parts for the Krag 1901 sight, but, apparently not the actual slide.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

The Krag sight-slide photos that Numrich has on their website, listed as "1901" parts, are actually for the model 1901 sight.

Granpa's Gun Parts has the top-plate, eye-piece, and other parts for the Krag 1901 sight, but, apparently not the actual slide.

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I didn't know how confusing that was, the ladder for the 1901 even has two different models, same ladders just the numbers are different. Actually, reading Poyer's book helps me out but it's still a lot of different ladder and base assembles for the total Krag rifle production.

---------- Post added at 08:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 AM ----------

On another good note, I checked the No Go gauge one the rifle and it passes excellent, that's awesome to have it correct so I can check it off my list. :D

I made a mistake in my last post.
The Numrich Arms photos of Krag slide parts are mislabeled as being for the 1901 sight.
In actuality, the parts are for the slide of the model 1896 rifle sight.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

I made a mistake in my last post.
The Numrich Arms photos of Krag slide parts are mislabeled as being for the 1901 sight.
In actuality, the parts are for the slide of the model 1896 rifle sight.

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I figured out what was happening. I still need that main part with the knob, everything else I have. :banghead:

Eventually I will find it, just a matter of time. :)

Found the Handguard!
Attachment 116334
1901 model


I still need the rear sight slide piece. :banghead:

Nice clean looking handguard, no cracks for a change. You got coins in those springs I hope?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Nice clean looking handguard, no cracks for a change. You got coins in those springs I hope?

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What about the coins? Please elaborate?

Store the handguard with a Quarter twisted into the rear clip and a Penny twisted into the front clip, to counteract the spring tension.

Krag handguards have been known to crack while off the rifle.

Never 'snap' a Krag handguard 'off' or 'on' a barrel.

With the sight and stock taken off of the barreled/action, the Krag handguard can be moved toward the muzzle to relieve the tension of the clips and easily removed.

A handguard can be put on the barrel at the muzzle and pushed back into position, to install.

A little solvent or CLP on the barrel metal aids the process.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

Store the handguard with a Quarter twisted into the rear clip and a Penny twisted into the front clip, to counteract the spring tension.

Krag handguards have been known to crack while off the rifle.

Never 'snap' a Krag handguard 'off' or 'on' a barrel.

With the sight and stock taken off of the barreled/action, the Krag handguard can be moved toward the muzzle to relieve the tension of the clips and easily removed.

A handguard can be put on the barrel at the muzzle and pushed back into position, to install.

A little solvent or CLP on the barrel metal aids the process.

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Thanks!

Finally I found ammo! :) Since the country has gone zombie, everything is impossible to source, and ammo is on the top of the crazy list.

I personally have a whole lot of ammo, except for the 30-40 Krag ammo. It's like really new condition, its been stored for awhile. :D


Attachment 116346

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

Store the handguard with a Quarter twisted into the rear clip and a Penny twisted into the front clip, to counteract the spring tension.

Krag handguards have been known to crack while off the rifle.

Never 'snap' a Krag handguard 'off' or 'on' a barrel.

With the sight and stock taken off of the barreled/action, the Krag handguard can be moved toward the muzzle to relieve the tension of the clips and easily removed.

A handguard can be put on the barrel at the muzzle and pushed back into position, to install.

A little solvent or CLP on the barrel metal aids the process.

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This information sure is really important for the handguard, since the 1901 rear sight is specific to the rifle, finding the Handguard is difficult, keeping it in good condition is critical.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 99621

This information sure is really important

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Yes it is...

Good Krag handguards seem to be bringing near 'gold prices', these days!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butlersrangers

Good Krag handguards seem to be bringing near 'gold prices', these days!

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Yes they are.....

This ladder assembly is harder to locate, I am going to have to keep at it. I just need the main body. :ugh:

https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....195#post496195

Found a really nice stock.
Attachment 116424

No cracks, no refinish, all original, really nice. This is a excellent find.

Nice looking stock, the photo does not show the wood grain, but by the color, I suspect it is one of the Italian walnut ones.

Attachment 116445

Here is a close up for the stock. I'm ready for the assembly soon. Kinda like Christmas.
:D

'99621' - That should be a solid & serviceable stock.

I don't want to be a "Debbie Downer", but, it appears to me that your 'new' stock has been sanded and refinished.

The 'finger-grooves' look rounded, not sharp, which is an indication the stock was refinished.

The gloss on the stock suggests refinish.

The lovely handguard, that you obtained recently, is American black walnut. You will have a contrast between the color of your stock and handguard.

Attached is a picture of an Italian stock contrasted with a black walnut handguard. Note the sharp edges of the finger-grooves. Italian stocks often have a nice tigerstripe

This Italian stock was stained to darken the light colored wood, probably at the unit level, for uniformity with the rest of the regiment's rifles.

Attachment 116447[ATTACH=CONFIG]116446

The seller I purchased before on Krag items was reputable or I thought. I have invested to much to put in any more. I'm just going to throw it away, a real disheartened job. I normally don't screw up this bad.

Lately it's been rather distracting in my life, my POS father is dying, giving his fortune away to others, he hated me from the start. Same happened to my mom when she died, my brother took everything. So I am not on my best performance and I made a $450.00 mistake.

'99621' - I beg to differ. Perfectionism can be a curse; it is unrealistic.

It it is fun and educational to make and restore a useful firearm from parts.
Going through the process has vastly expanded your knowledge of the U.S. Krag.

You are going to end up with a Krag Rifle that you should feel some pride in.
Especially, when you take it out to the Range for shooting sessions.

Restoring a firearm has become an extremely risky financial gamble. The internet has resulted in loose gunparts becoming increasingly expensive.

We have all gotten into projects that ended up more expensive than we imagined.

Take some pleasure in your project. The parts are still valuable and you have a working Krag.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 99621

I made a $450.00 mistake.

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I disagree as well...you over estimate. You got a good deal on that stock for what it is, and what the current availability is. Assemble your rifle, and enjoy the heck out of it whilst keeping an eye open for an untouched original. When you buy that one, and then sell this one...your "mistake" may be more like $20 instead of 450...heck you may even turn a profit. I know for a fact there are plenty of Krag sporters out there...I see them all the time on gunbroker. and there are plenty of people buying them too, and plenty more who would love to have your stock to make their hacked up sporter a military shooter again.

Of course, we would all prefer to have "perfect, correct, matching,..." - but for my two cents, if the US govt didn't really care about it...disassembling thousands of rifles at a time, tossing parts in bins, then reassembling into jumbled up but serviceable rifles...then that same treatment is the ceiling of my realistic exceptions (we always hope for more, but...meh...). If a govt arsenal had your stock, I doubt they would have cared about the edges on the finger grooves, a cartouche being sanded off, etc. If it was in the pile and fit and function were enough to make a rifle serviceable again, it was used. You should be as proud.

David - An after thought:

If the stock proves somewhat disappointing and is not as 'advertised', communicate with the seller.
If he is ethical and hears of your disappointment, he may be inclined to make a just adjustment in the price.
Some gun enthusiasts/sellers work very hard for their good reputation and will work hard to remedy unsatisfactory transactions.

You have nothing to loose by letting him know it is not in the condition you thought you were buying.
I did not share my knowledge and experience with you in order to sap your joy.
We all learn on forums, if open to it.

(I'm sorry you are having a tough time with your Dad and his declining health. I hope things work out better than they seem today).

P.S. - Show us some pictures of your Krag, when it is all together. We like seeing guns that are back from extinction!

David, I understand how you feel but agree with the others. When you are dealing with 120+ year old parts, perfection is tough to achieve. Just the fact that you have found a full length intact rifle stock is pretty amazing. I have been at the same point as you many times. Assemble the rifle and put it away for a while. Come back to it later and it may look a lot better. If not, there are many great threads on this forum regarding stripping, staining and finishing a stock (BLO etc.) I feel for you regarding the family issues. Been there--what a pain. I hope you have some help from someone who has your back. Good luck. Salt Flat

Thanks everyone, I just pitched it in the garbage, and I thank everyone who helped me out. :mad:

too bad. I would have bid on it had you put it up for sale.

IMHO - This is all beginning to make no sense.

If David "just pitched it in garbage", this has been a waste of valuable Krag parts and a waste of well intended advice and knowledge.

David, You have invested time and money in this project. YOUR thread has 1364 views! This thread and You will be missed if you stop at this point.

Thread closed as it's run the course and I'm sure will start going downhill soon. :thup:

Regards,
Doug