Wolff gunsprings

Hello fellows,

Any experience or feedback with wolff springs?

Thank you in advance :beerchug:

I personally would not get the extra power springs, but I have heard some people say wolf springs work just fine in their carbines and I've heard others say that wolf springs make their carbines jamimatics.I have always stuck with usgi springs because they are relatively easy to find and not that expensive

The carbine is not buffered, as such. The operating spring serves as the buffer. I think it could depend on what you shoot. Marginal or weak ammo may not cycle using a stronger spring, which results in the jamming. A spring too weak allows the slide to bash the face of the receiver and you can see that damage. It has to be balanced and the designers figured all that out specifying a spring that worked with the ammunition designed for it.

The carbine will function across a fairly broad range of pressures. Ammo too strong will beat it up, too weak and it won’t cycle. A stronger spring slows down the action and positively strips a round and locks the bolt, but too strong and it won’t cock the hammer or allow the bolt to retract enough to pick-up the next round. If I intended to shoot known strong loads, I might opt for a “high-power” spring.

I too would stick with GI springs as designed for the carbine. There's still lots available and guys here have them if in doubt about your source. I put a full set of Wolff springs in an AR15 for instance as I had a broken hammer spring and thought since the whole set came I'd just change them all. It changed the whole gun's dynamics and gave it a hard trigger, made the bolt hold open harder to operate, the takedown pins needed a tool to disengage them. It changed everything.

Stick to a new spring that was designed for the carbine. The issue spring.

Eddie, have to ask why are you wanting to change springs in the first place? Are you having a function issue? If not leave it alone, if it ain't broke don't fix it!

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”......a timeless piece of advice that never goes out of style.

"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is" - This happens way too often! - Bob

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it” is Rule Number One.
Wolff's biggest advantage is that they don't treat Canadian like lepers. Order something and they send it. Mind you, I've never had any issue with my Plainfield a bath didn't fix. Never had to replace any spring.
A great deal will depend on which spring you think needs replacing. Springs do not lose temper from being compressed.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jond41403

I personally would not get the extra power springs, but I have heard some people say wolf springs work just fine in their carbines and I've heard others say that wolf springs make their carbines jamimatics.I have always stuck with usgi springs because they are relatively easy to find and not that expensive

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Hello Jond.

Thank you for your feedback, do you know a website to find new USGI springs and parts, I had look at eBay but just found used.

Eddie:beerchug:

---------- Post added at 08:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:24 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flydthecat

The carbine is not buffered, as such. The operating spring serves as the buffer. I think it could depend on what you shoot. Marginal or weak ammo may not cycle using a stronger spring, which results in the jamming. A spring too weak allows the slide to bash the face of the receiver and you can see that damage. It has to be balanced and the designers figured all that out specifying a spring that worked with the ammunition designed for it.

The carbine will function across a fairly broad range of pressures. Ammo too strong will beat it up, too weak and it won’t cycle. A stronger spring slows down the action and positively strips a round and locks the bolt, but too strong and it won’t cock the hammer or allow the bolt to retract enough to pick-up the next round. If I intended to shoot known strong loads, I might opt for a “high-power” spring.

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Hello Flydthecat.

You´re right about the ammo, I only use regular ammo Aguila, Federal, Winchester, PMC, etc. What about you?

Eddie :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I too would stick with GI springs as designed for the carbine. There's still lots available and guys here have them if in doubt about your source. I put a full set of Wolff springs in an AR15 for instance as I had a broken hammer spring and thought since the whole set came I'd just change them all. It changed the whole gun's dynamics and gave it a hard trigger, made the bolt hold open harder to operate, the takedown pins needed a tool to disengage them. It changed everything.

Stick to a new spring that was designed for the carbine. The issue spring.

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Hello Jim,

Omg you´re so right about the M1 dynamic, those wolffs will change the original design, thank you :thup:

Eddie :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by W5USMC

Eddie, have to ask why are you wanting to change springs in the first place? Are you having a function issue? If not leave it alone, if it ain't broke don't fix it!

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Hello Wayne,

I have 2 M1 Inlands, both have different recoil spring length, the difference is about 2 inch, I don't know which is the right length, both shoot ok with commercial ammo, I just want to have two springs ready as back up.

Eddie :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flydthecat

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”......a timeless piece of advice that never goes out of style.

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You´re right.

Eddie :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 09:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by USGI

"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is" - This happens way too often! - Bob

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Thank you Bob

Eddie :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunray

Springs do not lose temper from being compressed

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Another False statement

Simple Metallurgy

Tempering: is usually performed after hardening, to reduce some of the excess hardness, and is done by heating the metal to some temperature below the critical point for a certain period of time, then allowing it to cool.

Springs: Under tension for an extended period of time can become weaker. Springs are specifically designed to contract under load in order to absorb energy from outside stress, then return to their natural state when the load is released.

Spring Fatigue: Over a long enough period of time, fatigue can occur, which is a condition where enough stress has repeatedly acted on the object and some deformation becomes permanent. In this case, it is harder to regain its complete normal shape. This is essentially what happens when a spring wears out. Any corrosion on the spring will advance this condition.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunray

I've never had any issue with my Plainfield a bath didn't fix. Never had to replace any spring.

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While your Plainfield sits in your closet for another 4 or 5 years, with the action closed. You only have 2 Springs under partial load - The Op Slide Stop pin 'Friction Spring' and the Trigger spring.

Obviously you've never turned the crank on a old motor to relieve / alternate the pressure on valve springs. Ever measure a old valve spring next to a new one ?
Ever sleep on a steel spring coil mattress ? If not go try it, the local dump is full of them. Why would those springs go bad ? The answer is from extended compression leading to fatigue.

Temper, The way a smith or manufacturer would temper steel or other metal, was to improve the hardness and elasticity by reheating and then cooling it. When it ages you have metal fatigue and loss of some elasticity, known as 'Creep' / 'Memory' to those who know. Any bending, distorting or kinking of the spring will hinder elasticity also.

In TM9-1276_1947 ,
Every spring has it's ID, OD, Free Length, Number of Coils, Mean Assembled Height, Load at Assembled Height, Operating Height, and Load at Operating Height: Measurements, Lengths etc. Listed.
Page 35, Section 25 Under 'Inspection and Replacement of Springs' Covers Inspection and Replacing the Springs.
The Overhaul Chart describes Inspection and Upgrading Springs.
These are recommended Repair, Replace, Inspection and Rebuild guidelines for 5-6 year old Carbines.

TM9-1276_1947: http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Man...-1276_1947.pdf

Best to store your action with the Hammer, Bolt / Op Slide forward. So the Compression load is off most all the springs.
I wouldn't recommend leaving fully packed magazines for long extended time periods. Best to rotate the magazines you leave some loads in.

I posted this so you wouldn't be confused by the other reply.

FWIW

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunray

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it” is Rule Number One.
Wolff's biggest advantage is that they don't treat Canadian like lepers. Order something and they send it. Mind you, I've never had any issue with my Plainfield a bath didn't fix. Never had to replace any spring.
A great deal will depend on which spring you think needs replacing. Springs do not lose temper from being compressed.

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Lol Sunray, thank you.

Eddie :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EddieM

I have 2 M1 Inlands, both have different recoil spring length, the difference is about 2 inch, I don't know which is the right length,

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Eddie,
Your Op Slide Spring should measure 10-1/4" laying flat on the table.
Do Not try to stretch a Short Spring to make it longer..... Comprende ?

EDIT: Ask this seller if he ships to you if you want USGI New Springs


2nd Edit: Best to stay away from this seller. SEE replies below.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by painter777

Eddie,
Your Op Slide Spring should measure 10-1/4" laying flat on the table.
Do Not try to stretch a Short Spring to make it longer..... Comprende ?

EDIT: Ask this seller if he ships to you if you want USGI New Springs

M1 Carbine spring operating slide USGI NOS | eBay

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Hola Carlito,

Thank you, I'm waiting for answer from the seller.
Tomorrow I will check the length of my spring to let you know.

Eddie :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by painter777

Eddie,
Your Op Slide Spring should measure 10-1/4" laying flat on the table.
Do Not try to stretch a Short Spring to make it longer..... Comprende ?

EDIT: Ask this seller if he ships to you if you want USGI New Springs

M1 Carbine spring operating slide USGI NOS | eBay

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Charlie, I refuse to buy from that seller. Take a look at their other items. I bought an op slide spring from them 2 years ago shown as being from an identical package. The spring I received wasn't USGI. Does "Wobsfund" ring a bell? :bash: - Bob

Attachment 116088

Quote:

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Originally Posted by USGI

Charlie, I refuse to buy from that seller.

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+1, he is on my no buy list!

I didn't notice or read the description below the listing, Or I would have see it was 'Wobsfund'

I just did a quick search after I posted the Spring length. Then the Quick Edit, adding the link.

Hard to keep up with multiple seller names used by the same guy when you get in a hurry.

My mistake, I'll take the A$$ kicking.

I checked WAC this morning and they're now "sold out" on op slide springs. :( - should have added a couple on my last order. - Bob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by painter777

I didn't notice or read the description below the listing, Or I would have see it was 'Wobsfund'

I just did a quick search after I posted the Spring length. Then the Quick Edit, adding the link.

Hard to keep up with multiple seller names used by the same guy when you get in a hurry.

My mistake, I'll take the A$$ kicking.

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That wobsfund guy is where my M8 launcher came from years ago. He was going under another name when I bought it from him that I can't recall at the moment. It came wrapped in New Old stock cloth identical to my M7 that I bought from a completely different seller and a couple years apart. I guess I'm going to have to unwrap the thing entirely to check it out closely since this seller is on the no buy list of everyone

Quote:

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Originally Posted by painter777

Another False statement

Simple Metallurgy

Tempering: is usually performed after hardening, to reduce some of the excess hardness, and is done by heating the metal to some temperature below the critical point for a certain period of time, then allowing it to cool.

Springs: Under tension for an extended period of time can become weaker. Springs are specifically designed to contract under load in order to absorb energy from outside stress, then return to their natural state when the load is released.

Spring Fatigue: Over a long enough period of time, fatigue can occur, which is a condition where enough stress has repeatedly acted on the object and some deformation becomes permanent. In this case, it is harder to regain its complete normal shape. This is essentially what happens when a spring wears out. Any corrosion on the spring will advance this condition.



While your Plainfield sits in your closet for another 4 or 5 years, with the action closed. You only have 2 Springs under partial load - The Op Slide Stop pin 'Friction Spring' and the Trigger spring.

Obviously you've never turned the crank on a old motor to relieve / alternate the pressure on valve springs. Ever measure a old valve spring next to a new one ?
Ever sleep on a steel spring coil mattress ? If not go try it, the local dump is full of them. Why would those springs go bad ? The answer is from extended compression leading to fatigue.

Temper, The way a smith or manufacturer would temper steel or other metal, was to improve the hardness and elasticity by reheating and then cooling it. When it ages you have metal fatigue and loss of some elasticity, known as 'Creep' / 'Memory' to those who know. Any bending, distorting or kinking of the spring will hinder elasticity also.

In TM9-1276_1947 ,
Every spring has it's ID, OD, Free Length, Number of Coils, Mean Assembled Height, Load at Assembled Height, Operating Height, and Load at Operating Height: Measurements, Lengths etc. Listed.
Page 35, Section 25 Under 'Inspection and Replacement of Springs' Covers Inspection and Replacing the Springs.
The Overhaul Chart describes Inspection and Upgrading Springs.
These are recommended Repair, Replace, Inspection and Rebuild guidelines for 5-6 year old Carbines.

TM9-1276_1947: http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Man...-1276_1947.pdf

Best to store your action with the Hammer, Bolt / Op Slide forward. So the Compression load is off most all the springs.
I wouldn't recommend leaving fully packed magazines for long extended time periods. Best to rotate the magazines you leave some loads in.

I posted this so you wouldn't be confused by the other reply.

FWIW

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Hola Carlito,

I really appreciate your support, thank you for this awesome and complete feedback.

Cheers compadre :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by painter777

Eddie,
Your Op Slide Spring should measure 10-1/4" laying flat on the table.
Do Not try to stretch a Short Spring to make it longer..... Comprende ?

EDIT: Ask this seller if he ships to you if you want USGI New Springs


2nd Edit: Best to stay away from this seller. SEE replies below.

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Carlito,

The spring from the older Inland SN 249xxx is 10 1/4" length and the newer S.N. 5.0 is 11"

Eddie :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by USGI

Charlie, I refuse to buy from that seller. Take a look at their other items. I bought an op slide spring from them 2 years ago shown as being from an identical package. The spring I received wasn't USGI. Does "Wobsfund" ring a bell? :bash: - Bob

Attachment 116088

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Hello Bob,

Which store or seller on ebay you had buy usgi springs?

Eddie :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by painter777

Eddie,
Your Op Slide Spring should measure 10-1/4" laying flat on the table.
Do Not try to stretch a Short Spring to make it longer..... Comprende ?

EDIT: Ask this seller if he ships to you if you want USGI New Springs


2nd Edit: Best to stay away from this seller. SEE replies below.

---

Carlito

Don't worry, I won't buy from that seller.

Gracias compadre :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 11:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by W5USMC

+1, he is on my no buy list!

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Hey Wayne,

Where you had buy springs?

Cheers :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 11:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:42 AM ----------

Hello fellows,

Any experience or feedback with Wolffs springs for M1 mags?

Have a nice wkn :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EddieM

Which store or seller on ebay you had buy usgi springs?

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It's the same one Charlie recommended to you at first. They've used more than one seller name and that's been really confusing to all of us! - Bob

Just so everybody knows he also currently goes under the name cumberlandvalleyarms. He used to go by ivesamory but must have been banned under that username because he hasn't sold anything under that name in a couple years.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by USGI

It's the same one Charlie recommended to you at first. They've used more than one seller name and that's been really confusing to all of us! - Bob

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Hey Bob
Thank you
Eddie :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 02:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:58 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jond41403

Just so everybody knows he also currently goes under the name cumberlandvalleyarms. He used to go by ivesamory but must have been banned under that username because he hasn't sold anything under that name in a couple years.

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Hey Jond, Thanks
Eddie :beerchug:

Eddie, try the seller Rickplayer on ebay. I'm not sure if he would ship to Mexico but you can rest assured it will be a usgi spring. He is a trustable seller and has them listed right now.hth

This certainly is not a hoorah for any makers springs no matter where they came from. I have shot them in all lengths from various carbines and never have had a problem. I have one in an SG now that’s 11-1/2” long, surely a commercial. It might very well be that over time, they won’t last as long as a USGI spec. spring, but I will shoot what works. If one has action problems, might be time to install a spec. GI spring to eliminate it as an issue, but I would not lose any sleep over it. Otherwise, shoot what you have if it works. The only thing I will be sure of is to avoid one too weak.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jond41403

Eddie, try the seller Rickplayer on ebay. I'm not sure if he would ship to Mexico but you can rest assured it will be a usgi spring. He is a trustable seller and has them listed right now.hth

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Thank you Jond.
I will reach that seller.
Eddie :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 06:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:13 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flydthecat

This certainly is not a hoorah for any makers springs no matter where they came from. I have shot them in all lengths from various carbines and never have had a problem. I have one in an SG now that’s 11-1/2” long, surely a commercial. It might very well be that over time, they won’t last as long as a USGI spec. spring, but I will shoot what works. If one has action problems, might be time to install a spec. GI spring to eliminate it as an issue, but I would not lose any sleep over it. Otherwise, shoot what you have if it works. The only thing I will be sure of is to avoid one too weak.

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Hey Fly
You´re right, thanks
Eddie :beerchug:

Several years ago Sportsman's Guide and Sarco sold op slide springs that were USGI. I sold one a couple years ago (should've kept) that came from Sarco in 1993. The last (2) I got from them both measure 11-1/2" so that length must be common for repros now. The last Carbine I bought (4 years ago) came with one of those longer springs and it was pretty hard to get it stuffed into the receiver. I was a bit worried it might cause "coil binding" so replaced with a worn 10" GI spring. Some (maybe all?) of those 11-1/2" ones are a bit short on the coil count, so probably wouldn't actually bind when the slide slams back. How long are the Wolff springs? - Bob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by USGI

How long are the Wolff springs?

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They don't say on their Web site, Or I couldn't find the length.
Only listing I see are their 'Extra Power' springs for Op/Recoil and Magazines.

They have this listed about Shipping:

CORONAVIRUS NOTICE - SHIPPING DELAYS
Due to extremely heavy order volume and the Covid-19 situation there will be delays in processing and shipping your order. W.C. Wolff Company is in operation but with a limited staff. Your business in important to us and we will get your order on the way as soon as possible. Currently we are experiencing about a 20 to 25 days delay in shipping orders.

INTERNATIONAL ORDERS
Due to the Covid-19 situation and changes in US Export regulations we are temporarily not accepting international orders at the present time.........

I've purchased bulk packs of their 15 and 30 rd magazine springs and they seem fine.

They describe the Op Slide/Recoil spring and Magazine springs as being 'Extra Power'
Nothing said about Extra Power for the Hammer, Ejector, Extractor, Mag Catch, Safety Plunger, Sear or Slide Stop.

I thought back a few years ago when I ordered the Mag Springs that they offered 'Regular or their 'Extra Power' Springs for the Op Slide/Recoil Spring.
Maybe I was mistaken...

Link to Wolff Springs US M1 Carbine Springs:

https://www.gunsprings.com/M1%20CARB...2/mID98/dID163

ETA: This was a FAST SEARCH of the Wolff Web Site looking for Op/Recoil Spring length. If the measurement is hidden in the small print, I don't want to hear about it. It's late, my back is hurting and the Grandson has worn my A$$ out.... :banghead:

No "fine print" searching from me tonight - I actually worked outside all day and my butt's dragging! I did look at the Wolff site earlier, and also at some archived threads on the CMP forums. DaveHH had some good comments in a couple of them about the Wolff springs. I'll attach the links if I can find them again. - Bob

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=77305

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=210382

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=148535

Quote:

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Originally Posted by USGI

No "fine print" searching from me tonight - I actually worked outside all day and my butt's dragging! I did look at the Wolff site earlier, and also at some archived threads on the CMP forums. DaveHH had some good comments in a couple of them about the Wolff springs. I'll attach the links if I can find them again. - Bob

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=77305

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=210382

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=148535

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Thank you Bob
Eddie :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flydthecat

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”......a timeless piece of advice that never goes out of style.

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Here's the other one: when tightening a steel bolt in an aluminum part, remember, aluminum always loses. It is remarkable how many so called Mechanics never even consider this. And the results of their stupidity are never seen when it occurs, the threads come out when the next poor soul tries to remove that steel bolt. The damage is severe and usually fatal. Stripped oil pans, transmission oil plugs, spark plugs etc.

My experience with Wolf springs: They arrive in a plastic bag with no identification, it is your puzzle to solve. The springs are just a bag full of available commercial springs that are "Close enough" to maybe work. I took my time and carefully looked at each spring in the kit, None except the recoil slide spring looked correct. I used that one spring and it functioned OK, I considered all of the other springs to be unacceptable. If we were in a SHTF situation where no genuine springs were available, then you would use anything you could get....that is what these spring assortments are. Wolf acts like the springs are carefully selected and tested in their lab by little German scientists. They are probably not. They are just a bag of springs made by someone else that might work. I have used their striker spring for my 98K because it is stronger and firing 70 year old surplus ammunition needs all of the help it can get. Interesting is that both of my originals a Winchester and an Inland have all of their original 1944 springs in place and both function fine. This shows you what quality looks like. The Army stuff is far superior to any common commercial spring. Same thing with WW2 1911 mag springs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DaveHH

The springs are just a bag full of available commercial springs that are "Close enough" to maybe work

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They changed the dynamics of an AR15 M-forgery to the point it wasn't reliable.

I have always used new Wolf springs, but in Mausers, Tokarevs, and USGI 45 autos. The trick is to select the same power spring for the application. They generally have 3 to 4 options. On my K98s and Turk mausers I up the the spring pressure for old Turk and Yugo 1950s surplus garbage ammo. On Toks, I use the standard rebuild kit. On a 45 I up the pressure on the spring. They have the same postage for one or 6 springs. So to make it worth while I get a normal and higher power spring for my rifles as spares to have around. To make shipping free or less for just one spring, some sell individual springs on Flee bay. Wolf springs are high quality, but some springs are better switched as a rebuild kit rather than just one. I have never replaced one in a USGI carbine. I have never needed to replace an Enfield, or Mosin spring. Those just sit in my box.

If you can find USGI in the package, original, given what I said , That is what I would use on a $1500 M1 Carbine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DaveHH

My experience with Wolf springs: They arrive in a plastic bag with no identification, it is your puzzle to solve. The springs are just a bag full of available commercial springs that are "Close enough" to maybe work. I took my time and carefully looked at each spring in the kit, None except the recoil slide spring looked correct. I used that one spring and it functioned OK, I considered all of the other springs to be unacceptable. If we were in a SHTF situation where no genuine springs were available, then you would use anything you could get....that is what these spring assortments are. Wolf acts like the springs are carefully selected and tested in their lab by little German scientists. They are probably not. They are just a bag of springs made by someone else that might work. I have used their striker spring for my 98K because it is stronger and firing 70 year old surplus ammunition needs all of the help it can get. Interesting is that both of my originals a Winchester and an Inland have all of their original 1944 springs in place and both function fine. This shows you what quality looks like. The Army stuff is far superior to any common commercial spring. Same thing with WW2 1911 mag springs.

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Hello Dave,

Thank you for share about your Wollfs.
I agree with you about mil-spec quality, it's beyond Vs commercials.
Would you share how do you keep your springs in optimal conditions?
Eddie :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

They changed the dynamics of an AR15 M-forgery to the point it wasn't reliable.

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Hello Jim
Changed dynamics is unacceptable
Eddie :beerchug:

---------- Post added at 06:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:53 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 72 usmc

I have always used new Wolf springs, but in Mausers, Tokarevs, and USGI 45 autos. The trick is to select the same power spring for the application. They generally have 3 to 4 options. On my K98s and Turk mausers I up the the spring pressure for old Turk and Yugo 1950s surplus garbage ammo. On Toks, I use the standard rebuild kit. On a 45 I up the pressure on the spring. They have the same postage for one or 6 springs. So to make it worth while I get a normal and higher power spring for my rifles as spares to have around. To make shipping free or less for just one spring, some sell individual springs on Flee bay. Wolf springs are high quality, but some springs are better switched as a rebuild kit rather than just one. I have never replaced one in a USGI carbine. I have never needed to replace an Enfield, or Mosin spring. Those just sit in my box.

If you can find USGI in the package, original, given what I said , That is what I would use on a $1500 M1 Carbine.

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Thanks for share 72usmc,
Which is your M1 carbine maker?
Eddie:beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yunusnaik

Content deleted so as to not give the poster a second shot.

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You should pay for a Advertising Banner.

***Reply #39 Reported***

Quote:

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Originally Posted by painter777

Advertising Banner.

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Reported too...

Thanks to painter777 and browningautorife. Gone.


Bob

I have used wolf springs before without problem in a carbine for the recoil spring and it worked fine but I just tried one on a QHMC and the spring would not fit in the spring tube, regular GI one was just fine. YMMV

Any feedback with the Wolffs but with the 15s and 30s mags?
Eddie :beerchug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EddieM

Any feedback with the Wolffs but with the 15s and 30s mags?
Eddie :beerchug:

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I have read on several occasions that their magazine springs seem to work pretty good