Hey fellows
Which is your favorite lub and how often you use to lub?
Regards, Eddie :beerchug:
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Hey fellows
Which is your favorite lub and how often you use to lub?
Regards, Eddie :beerchug:
I like this stuff: Amazon.com : HOPPE Outdoors
Seems to be the right consistency and unlike some products cleans off easily.
You will get many different answers, boils down to personal preference. I use these.
Amazon.com: Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Grease 2 oz. Bottle 579-2: Everything Else
Amazon.com : Wilson Combat WILS 5782 Ultima-LUBE II UN : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports Outdoors
Depends on what I'm lubbing. Grease is for lubing rifles. Oil is for preventing rust.
That really depends on the application. When I'm storing milsups I use different lubricants than when I use them. For instance when I store my Mosin Nagants for long-term storage all of the metal that is underwood get a light coating of Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease the visible metal and bore with Breakfree CLP. (even though I don't shoot them I still wipe them down every couple of months) I also store them in gun socks.
For the rifles that I use off and on I pretty much stay with (again depending on the rifle) Breakfree CLP, Slip 2000 EWG, and Lubrplate 130-A. My bolt actions will get Breakfree CLP and on the lugs Slip 2000 EWG. My large-caliber Semi-auto (Garands, SKS's, Mini-14) 'mostly' Breakfree CLP and Lubrplate 130-A, and Semi-auto 22's just Breakfree CLP
Thank you deldriver,Quote:
Originally Posted by deldriver
How often do you lub?
Eddie :beerchug:
---------- Post added at 05:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:18 PM ----------
Thank you Wayne,Quote:
Originally Posted by W5USMC
How often you need to lub with Wilson?
Eddie :beerchug:
For regular use...I use MPro-7 when I need an oil lubricant - I feel it holds up a bit better than the popular break free CLP we used in the marines. I use Lucasoil gun grease when I need a good grease. Different firearms get different treatment. .
For cleaning, refurbishing, storing, preserving...that is a whole different story. Gun cleaning and lubricating regimens are like butt holes, everyone has one, they all smell different, and everyone thinks theirs smells the sweetest, and don't you tell them otherwise or you'll be sorry.
Here is a post of mine...
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....l=1#post492897
empirical data I used in that post is here https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=10700 and here http://www.nramuseum.org/media/10073...20wicklund.pdf
When dealing with a new-to-me rifle, I add a step (0) where I fully disassemble, and use mineral spirits and alcohol to completely decrease every part of any old lubricants. For one, I have no idea what anyone else used, and second old grease and oil from 80 years ago can dry out, become acidic, and cause rust on even the most loved antique (read the nra preservation guide above).
Hello Sunray,Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunray
Which ones do you use?
Eddie :beerchug:
The enfielder armorers use some military axle grease for wood to metal contact...thread here somewhere that found the spec is NLGI No. 2.Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
I use lucasoil white NLGI No. 2 on any tight fitting wood to metal contact not likely to ever see the light of day...under sling swivels, sockets, stock cross bolts, butt plates and screws, etc.
Just about anything Lucas is good, high drop points. I like Red because its Drop Point is 540 Fahrenheit so if I do shoot a rifle with it, no worries about the grease melting and making a mess. It really blocks out the moisture and salts. When I was a young SEABEE, Gunny introduced it to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgross
Depends on the rifle. Since this is an M1 carbine thread, I will stay with that rifle. The manufacturer recommended lube for the M1 Garand was Lubriplate. I use it on my M1 Garand. Since the Garand and M1 carbine have similar operating systems and were manufactured in the same era, I figured I would also use it in my M1 carbines. I clean and lube each rifle every time I return from a shooting session. The Garand and both carbines function perfectly with the Lubriplate. It should be noted that many people do not like Lubriplate and do not recommend it. I do not use it in any of my other firearms. Hope that helps!
I've not heard that but my guess is they are not applying it correctly and then immediately blame any issues on the grease. I see people all the time with gobs of grease rather than a thin transparent coat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Singer B
Maybe (?) Oiling first, then wondering why Grease wont stay in place ?Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
I prefer to Grease where needed, then Oil where needed.
Long term storage for me is a different animal.
Not directing this at anyone in particular. But Ordnance provided a Oiler in the stock. No Grease gun attached to it.
Good point!Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
---------- Post added at 10:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 PM ----------
[QUOTE=usabaker;496277]I've not heard that but my guess is they are not applying it correctly and then immediately blame any issues on the grease. I see people all the time with gobs of grease rather than a thin transparent coat.[/QUOTE
When I was researching the correct lube for the Garand, I came across several articles and postings claiming Lubriplate was an inferior grease. I just figured if Springfield Armory recommended it for the gun they built, it was good enough for me since I know nothing about grease other than it makes a real mess!
you should not "see" the grease, if you see it, it's much too thick. If you apply it with an acid brush it just takes a thin layer; should be transparent. Really, as Painter777 says, unless the firearms call out for in 'everyday normal' use there is no need for grease. If you live in a beach community like me in San Diego, I use grease because 1. I don't always shoot the same rifles so I want more protection on some part. 2. Because I live near saltwater, and 3. I don't take the rifles that I use grease on in the fields or in the snow.Quote:
Originally Posted by Singer B
The exception to that is the locking lugs on my bolts regardless if it's a MILSRUP Mauser a Modern Bargara; the lugs are always greased with EWG.
I make my own lub. I use a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and Marvels Miracle Oil. Both usual comes in a one quart can or bottle. I mix them in a one gallon can/bottle. I have used this mixture for years in my match guns. Great stuff!
Hola Carlito,Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
What do you grease and what do you oil?
Eddie :beerchug:
Hello FjrupleQuote:
Originally Posted by fjruple
What do you use to clean first?
How long last your mixture?
Eddie :beerchug:
for cleaning after shooting, I use Hoppes #9. For a preservative oil I use Army PL-S general purpose weapons oil light. An equivalent commercial oil would be 3 in 1 oil. this is for rubbing into the metal with a rag or patch. For lubricating oil I use the Army teflon oil. it comes in a green squirt bottle and after shaking it has a white color. That is the teflon mixed with the oil. a few years ago Sarco sold quart cans of this stuff German made so I have enough for 5 lifetimes. This lubricant was developed for the M-16 rifle and works well. For grease, I use almost anything. Lubriplate is good any old axle grease is fine. Grease is oil that stays where it is placed. I see no useful purpose in putting expensive lubricants on firearms when they are cleaned and maintained so often. I would also go out on a limb and say that the rifle doesn't know or care what type of oil or grease you use. Going further out on that limb, I would not use WD 40 on any firearm I valued. I did use it for years when I had one shotgun and one rifle. It will be better than nothing at all, but as a genuine lubricant it falls short. I do use it as a sliding lubricant on old Pinball machines and it is good for that. By design it is a preservative coating.
Hello DaveQuote:
Originally Posted by DaveHH
Thank you for share.
Eddie :beerchug:
Eddie-- I use a standard solvent with a brass/bronze brush on the bore and pressure parts. For lubbing I use my mixture. Usually if my lub comes in contact with carbon build up it keeps it loose so it is easily removed. The automatic transmission fluid acts as a detergent and anti-friction agent not unlike your automatic transmission. The Marvel Miracle oil acts as a lubricate. Both of these oils do not jell like some greases and lubricate if they sit long. I just made a new batch of my "lub". The last batch lasted me from the mid 1990"s. Not to be vulgar but my fellow match shooter's use to call the concoction, Hillary's *lit Juice. LOL!!Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieM
Nice Fjruple,Quote:
Originally Posted by fjruple
Thanks for share I will try your "mix".
Eddie :beerchug:
I don't have a favorite; at least not yet.
However I am interested in using the appropriate lubricants for the job and thought the historical lubes would be a good starting place for the specs were. See
Oil, Lubricating Preserving, Original - The Carbine Collector's Club
If you skim to my March 29 post you'll see that by 1944 FM the Army was recommending different lubes for different situations. Its probably not surprising that guidance is very much in line with what DaveHH and USABaker do based on their training and years of experience. Thank you!
Funny, I was looking and a Winchester 70 Heavy Barrel .223 that I was thinking about buying. Wanted to take my grandkids out to shoot ground squirrels and since its lead-free only in california now I figured I could load down a .223 Remington with Barnes TTSX. ANYhow... this guy load his action and bolt with grease! LOL don't know if I want that rifle anymore.. I think burnt and hydraulic-sized bores-N-barrel may be a result. Holly Molly...
You should not see the grease!
Attachment 116296
Hello Matt,Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_X
Thank you for share.
I agree with you.
Eddie :beerchug:
---------- Post added at 10:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 PM ----------
Lol BillQuote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
Eddie :beerchug:
The old man swore by Lubriplate and I've never had any problems with it. It is a molybdenum-disulphide grease IIRC and well known for not washing off, high pressure applications etc.
The coloured jelly that's sold as grease now doesn't come close, though whether Lubriplate is as good as it was 50 or so years ago would be another question.
Did a little looking around on the internet and some of TMs yesterday for documentation on Rifle grease specs and revisions.
The rifle grease used for many years was Lubriplate 130A.
This is a NLGI 2.5 calcium base with what might be called heavy viscosity oil (similar to SAE 40).
Good news is its still readily available.
People claim this is the grease used in WW2, and it may be true, the oldest specific documentation I've found so far is a labeled jar in a 1954 package.
In this thread, Which Plastilube grease is the closest to the original? - AR15.COM a person found Lubriplate 130A was still listed as recently as 1999.
The same person found the military also sourced a clay based (1963-96) and barium based grease (1990). The brown milsurp rifle grease we often see on the market is the bentonite clay based Plastilube. I don't what the barium grease looks like.
The Plastilube name is currently owned by Loctite Henkel. They still sell products called Plastilube. I can't tell if its the same stuff. The milspec rifle grease is supposed to pass a water proofing test and at least one place selling plastilube says it can be diluted with water for use as a mold release. :dunno:
Molybdenum Grease in common usage everywhere can actually damage ferrous metals and the Army recommended not using it on artillery and automotive AD 291052 dated 1970. That is a great recommendation for plain old axle grease. You have to admit that is an extremely bold move by the Army but it also shows how important they believe it is. Lubriplate is a Lithium based grease.
Moly grease apparently does its damage when the greased material sits for long periods. I'd recommend reading AD 291052 as it has a lot of info on various greases and applications.
I know that the Army M16 oil is OK and I know that the axle grease is OK, both are cheap. Those quart cans of German M16 oil for $9 ea look pretty good.
It's been 20 years since I retired from the Military, but I do remember that our unit had 450 M-16's, we cleaned and lubed them after they were used at the range, and once a year while it storage. all we ever used was CLP, and we never used any kind of grease. the CLP we used at the time had a very bad smell about it, hard to wash the smell off of your hands. not like the CLP of today.
Why would anyone want to use grease on a Military weapon when there is a good chance it will be used in a sandy area ? looks like the grease would collect and hold all kinds of sand and other trash while in use..... maybe ok in a clean indoor range.
But, that's been 20 years ago. ;)
Painter,
My handguard is on the way, thanks for the info. and help. Louis
I believe Breakfree CLP is the original formula purchased by the military. The practice continues. We were only ever issued CLP to clean and maintain. I don't know about cdeaning only twice a year - we had to go down to the armory monthly to check out and clean. CLP takes a long time, and after a month it always dissolves some deposit you didn't get last month. Took a long time to pass inspection to turn in after the range...the dreaded patched pinky in the chamber test. If you were on drinking buddy terms with one of the armorers on duty, you could offer him a beer later to give your rifle a flush in the solvent tank they had inside to speed up your cleaning.Quote:
Originally Posted by lboos
different weapon systems get different treatment. the m16 functions a lot differently than the Garand or m1 carbine. I remember the kit with the mk-19 had a special translucent white grease in it. Some parts got slathered in it. Here is a good thread about military weapons in desert conditions.Quote:
Originally Posted by lboos
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...-desert.52459/
In Iraq convoy security, we field stripped, wiped down, and lightly oiled the correct points and no more, and ran a dry patch dust mop down the bore, every time we stopped...sometimes within 15 minutes of the last stop. The fine dust that settles everywhere after being kicked up by all the vehicles ahead penetrates everything.
While I'm on the subject of convoy security in Iraq...I've heard lots of discussions about how bayonets are soooo obsolete. Well, often we were the first Americans to roll through a town in the early days of the war and the town roads would be clogged with people. Packs were strapped to the outside rail on the truck to make room for marines, ammo, and crates of grenades inside. Kids would pick at the packs, and people would rush and pound on the vehicles in excitement, even with rifles pointed outboard. I'm glad we had bayonets...and fixing them instantly cleared a 10 ft. radius around the truck.
Here you go...
https://youtu.be/QlZKY2Se56M
If there was a bayonet on that rifle, he wouldn't dare grab it.
delete.
The various lubricants noted in Army manuals reflected where they were used. Oiling in the desert invites trouble, in Korea it froze etc. None of that has anything to do with nursing 75 year old rifles through another year of life in the US. I always oil and grease carbines and M1 rifles. They need all the help they can get.
The AR 15 is a design with tiny by comparison bolts and attached parts. The rifle uses a barrel extension as well. It also has a operating rod system that is a bad joke. Two fingers??? If you start firing an AR that is the least bit too dry, and you happen to smack the forward assist, you have a serious problem. A rifle with a live round stuck in the chamber and you must knock it out with a cleaning rod. I use plenty of teflon oil and some grease on that carrier and bolt. I'm not in Iraq and nobody is going to inspect how I keep my weapons.
Using light weapons oil in tiny quantities on a carbine because a manual said that's what I should do, makes no sense today. There are no Ordnance Level people any more and parts are drying up. Pamper that Carbine.
ARs love to be run wet. Primarily the BCG and the chamber. Even when wet, they still don't seem to like steel case ammo.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveHH
I don't remember it smelling bad. My first introduction with CLP in the military had nothing to do with weapons. I was a Construction Mechanic in the SEABEES and we got this lowboy in that had been sitting in a Naval yard for awhile. We were told to get in O1 condition. When we went to fold the outriggers out they were frozen up something solid. The trailer was subject to the saltwater air so it was no surprise but no amount of Military penetrating oil or Oxy-Acetylene rosebud heat would get these outriggers to giveaway.Quote:
Originally Posted by lboos
When we went to Supply to get some more penetrating oil he said he also had this CLP stuff that came in but had no idea what it was for, neither did we at the time; it had just been issued. We grabbed a case of it an went back. We soaked all the outrigger with it and left for lunch. When we got back the pry bar got the outrigger out far enough to be able to wack them with a sledge and they all loosened right up. We went WOW what the H*ll is this stuff. a few bottles were librated by us. We later found out it was for our weapons. It became a staple in our shop, the stuff was magic back then and still today.
I also have a personal story/experience with Breakfree CLP that cause me to be forever sold on it and my main maintenance oil for ALL of my weapons. But I'll post that story later. My wife is calling.
Hello Dave.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveHH
I agree with you, any weapon needs or welcome all the possible help.
Which teflon oil and grease do you use?
Regards, Eddie :beerchug:
Hello Bill,Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
Interesting story, thanks for share.
I´ll be ready for your Breakfree CLP story.
Regards, Eddie :beerchug:
I was in a “transitional” period in the mid 90’s, pretty much all I will say about that, but it caused me to put almost everything that was mine in storage. These were still the days of the gun display cases – you know the ones, wood cabinet glass in the door and a drawer at the bottom.Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieM
Because I had to rush to get my stuff and including my firearms in storage, I got a hold of an old refrigerator and gutted it. I then glued car carpet you get on the roll from the auto parts store to the interior and made racks to hold my rifles. I fixed padlocks on the door.
I moved the refrigerator into the storage unit, which was nothing more than a building with a steel roll-up door that you can drive up to—not environmentally controlled at all. I placed the refrigerator in the far corner of the room. I gave my rifles one more cleaning and a nice coating of Breakfree CLP and brought them (incognito) to the storage unit. My big mistake is that I did not have access to them after the storage unit was filled.
I would wake up at night thinking about my firearms and how they would be rusty, and every month I would get more and more anxious. It got to the point I was afraid even to see them. I expected the worse; I thought all of my firearms would be trash. I would not be able to get at my firearms for three years.
When I finally relocated to San Diego, I had a house again and had unloaded everything and moved in. I cut the padlocks off the refrigerator. I got to tell you my anxiety was pining some this fierce. I opened the door and pulled out the packing that kept the rifles in place. I was shocked! I pulled each rifle out and inspected each one, and out of 16 rifles, only one, a Remington Model 12 22 WRF with an octagon barrel, had a little surface rust on the barrel, so slight that bronze wool and CLP took it right off.
I was overjoyed at my good fortune and amazed at how well Breakfree CLP preserved my firearms. I don’t think I was ever so happy to teardown and clean all of my firearms in my life.
Do I think this is the best oil? Well… no, I don’t; I'm sure there are oils just as good, maybe even better. But I trust Breakfree CLP for my firearms based on my military experience and what happened in my personal life. I think people should use what they trust, not what people or advertisers tell them.
What happened to the refrigerator? Well, it got repurposed into a raised bed planter LOL
Attachment 116394
My little handicapped buddy lives out in the country on a hilltop and has some Sketchy neighbors down the road. He is easily seen coming and going from his home. When I can lure him out for a fishing trip or Casino run I always pick him up, so his truck is there to look like he is home. When not needed I'd leave a couple of our work vans parked out there so he could move them around or take one in to town. Trying to fool the Meth Heads down the road on whether he was home or not. F'ing shame a Vietnam veteran has to live like that...Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
We Deer and Turkey hunt his place and over the years we now have a couple of county sheriff officers that come out also. They'll look in on his place when their on this side of the county now... a win win.
Old Freezer
We did nearly the same with a old upright freezer. Gutted the shelves inside but left the inner liners and insulation. Built in some racks and were able to stick with the factory lock on it after some reinforcement.
He uses the Dehumidifier Canisters from Hornady with the Silica beads you recharge when the moisture indicators reach peak level.
You can see the freezer cord plugged in off to the side. But the cord powers a light inside he can turn on when needed. It's in his basement which is damp and cold.
If anyone looked in the basement all they'd see would be the furnace, dryer, washing machine, hot water tank, dehumidifier, and this old beat up freezer in the corner.
It's worked so far as he's been broken in to twice in the last 6-7 years.
Maybe works because: You can't see the forest for the trees :confused:
And no one but him and I know about it...... Well except you guys now.
But I'm not telling where that hill top is !
That was the reason I chose the refrigerator, deception. The upright freezer would have been easier since it only has one door to deal with. The fridge has a top and bottom door so there was a bar I had to work around. But it was free and did serve the purpose. I see people selling old soda machines that are refitted firearm lockers.Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
https://beachpackagingdesign.com/box...hine-gun-safes
https://youtu.be/ypRofhNvSd0
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...egunsafe-1.jpg
Bill,
Pretty cool,
I don't know why? But it reminds me of the Bruce Willis movie RED where he meets up with the paranoid Marvin (John Malkovich). When Marvin opens the trunk on the junk car and goes down to his secret lair.
I prefer the out of sight out of mind angle. I posted here about a Bunker I built in my basement. You'd need a Torch to get in.... IF you find it:
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=72607
Years back we did a new home for a Ex pro ballplayer. 8' solid core interior doors we call 'Herman Munsters'. Also called 2 maners, because it takes 2 men to haul them around.
They had 2 Bi-fold doors to what you'd think was just a walk in closest.
When opened and after you were shown where and how to pull on the pre-finished shelving a Murphy style bed (without mattress) pulled down to reveal his hidden arms room.
All the joints were hidden by the upright shelving stiles. The fixed shelves had attached shoe boxes... etc sitting on them. Those shelves became the base when pulled down.
It was pretty nifty.... but word got around the job sites pretty quickly about it.
I remember reading that post. good notes for my next home - outside of CaliforniaQuote:
Originally Posted by painter777
That is a great story. I also use BreakFree CLP for my firearms prior to putting them back in the safe. CLP also makes a special "Collector's" variant that is designed for long-term storage needs. It has a little thicker consistency and I use it on clients' guns that I know will not be used or serviced for a very long time by their owners.Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
I did not know about this, I'm sure I saw it but maybe ignored it? I found Break-Free, Model: CO-4 Collector which I assume is the one you wrote about. I'm ordering it. Thank you for the lead. In my shooting bag, I have a microfiber rag that I soaked in Breakfree CLP that I keep in a ziplock. I use this to wipe my firearm down after I come out of the field back to my SUV or before leaving the range. It works great especially when you have been operating in the morning dew and rain. To make the rag, I saturate the rag and twist out any excess. I let the rag sit in my garage through the day and overnight to let the solvents evaporate and then place it in the ziplock. It leaves a light coat of oil when you wipe the firearm down.Quote:
Originally Posted by Singer B
Hello BillQuote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
Nice story, thank you for share.
Eddie :beerchug:
The bottle I have is the old style black plastic bottle that says "Collector" with "Long Term Storage Protectorant" on it. Hope that helps! Since we live in the desert, I will wipe down a firearm and let it sit wet for about a half hour after the cleaning process then wipe it dry to prevent it from collecting dust. I was told CLP contains Teflon which permeates the metal and creates a layer of protection that doesn't rub off. I don't know if that is true but the CLP has served me well with my duty guns and my current CCW pistol.Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
I think they have changed the labeling. When I was looking for the "Collector" I found this "new" Breakfree on their website "BREAK FREE® MIL-SPEC CLP™" I didn't know there was a difference .. I ordered two 4oz bottles to check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Singer B
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...w300sh30-1.jpg
I will be interested in your opinion on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
I never noticed that the MIL SPEC number was removed from the Break Free bottles. I checked the 4oz Squeeze and 12oz Aerosol that I have and it's not there; when was it removed I wonder. The current batch of Break Free I have was purchased in 2014. The stuff I used on my firearms when they were in storage was original the MIL-SPEC because it was the same bottles librated. Now I'm more curious than ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by Singer B
Hola Carlito,Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
Im sorry for your buddy.
I would suggest him to install this smart home security system, its cheap, reliable and fun cauz has Alexa in too, besides that tells you when some one brakes in has a video recorder, it can make daily sounds as some one laughing, dog sparking, vacum working. You can also add smart sensors to turn on lights, lamps TV, etc at any time he wish only with his cellphone from any where in the planet.
Amazon.com: Honeywell Home Smart Home Security Starter Kit, gray: Home Improvement
Says they recently rebranded the product, maybe that's when they dropped the mil-spec number on the label, I don't know but here is a screenshot of the vice president of the company safariland talking about itQuote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
Thanks for share :beerchug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Singer B
I like CLP too, and use it quite a bit. I have a new bottle I haven't opened - probably bought it around the time they changed the name to Safariland. I did notice they dropped Military Spec #'s from the label. I worried a bit whether it would be as good, but still has information about the Teflon on the back. I always forget to shake the bottle before using, though. I have a bunch of others including "Corrosion-X" which was highly recommended 25-30 years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
I'm surprised no one has mentioned "Frog Lube" - I helped a guy look "all over the place" for it at a huge Gun Show in Portland several years ago, and then he did't buy any! I think he was going to use it on his "Bushmaster." Seems like guys coming back from Iraq had recommend it to him.
Pictures below are of the older and newer bottles of CLP. Also a picture of some old boxes that my brother and I figured we needed to shoot the ammo from, before it got any older. I'm pretty sure it was from the mid 50's or possibly early 60's. That picture should have gone in the recent thread where old ammo was discussed, but was busy with other stuff at the time. I'm pretty sure that ammo was bought at a gas station about a mile from where I live now. The owner's grandson now operates the station, but no longer has Sporting Goods like they did in the "Good Ol' Days!" - Bob
Attachment 116407Attachment 116406Attachment 116409
Hello BillQuote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
Thank you for share :beerchug:
Hello Bob,Quote:
Originally Posted by USGI
Thank you for share.
Nice, which 30-30 do you have? I have an old Marlyn 1898 Special Smokeless Steel :beerchug:
Frog Lube, Like SEAL 1 or most any of the so-called safe oils, uses bio-based oils that get putrid/rancid over time. Had a friend open a container of it that had been in his range bag for a while and Holy Smokes the smell was so bad you could taste it. First time I ever saw the stuff is when a friend asked me to show him how to field strip, clean, and lubricate his new 1911. He handed be a small jar of the paste. When I opened it and saw this green goop I asked what the heck it was. He told me the gun store recommend it to him when he bought the gun. I laughed walked to my garage and grabbed the Break Free. He uses Frog Lube still and seems to like it.Quote:
Originally Posted by USGI
My friend who owned a gun store gave me some Seal 1 to try, I was not impressed at all, it does smell nice though; Might use it someday to cover up a bad fart smell or something.
GIBOB,Quote:
Originally Posted by USGI
Just a couple days ago a friend was telling how great Frog Lube is. I'd heard of it but never tried it. He asked if I'd heard of CLP and I told him yes. He said CLP made Frog Lube.
Well I guess last fall he and another guy tried a test using Frog Lube vs a light weight Mobil One Synthetic. They called it a draw after 200~ shots thru each AR as fast as they could shoot.
I don't know how they determined what made it a draw, but later it reminded me of seeing Frog Lube tested on a Youtube video.
I just searched and was able to find that same video. 300+ rounds rapid fire.
Wanna watch it ?
Watch for the shooters Tactical removal of the mags dust cover :cool:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LB8hN9X5z5M
ETA: I should add this friend has a radio and outdoor tv show and gets a lot of free products to test.
Huh? CLP only means Cleaner Lubricant Preservative it a product, not a Company.Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
Well, not really sure what that video proves? For any of that testing to have results they would need to have the exact same equipment with the same specs and then look at the ware under a microscope to actually check any difference. Cycle time would have to be measured with high-speed tools as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
This other guy with just plan jane AR took it to meltdown at 440 rounds. So lube or not the AR's can just do sustained fire.
https://youtu.be/7cr9e3N6HEw
He may have said what Company made the CLP, but he said 'They' also make Frog Lube.Quote:
Originally Posted by usabaker
I don't much give a Sh!t. I get tired real quick of his constant jawing.
As far as calling their shoot off a draw....
Like I said.......
USABAKER: "Well, not really sure what that video proves? "Quote:
Originally Posted by painter777
The video proves nothing. I posted it because Bob mentioned Frog Lube and thought he might enjoy seeing it.
:banghead:
Wow six pages on oil! I love re-reading Hatcher's Notebook. 100 years ago, barrel rusting was a real thing and a guy from the Bureau of Mines figures it out. Frankford Arsenal has a good answer (today's Ed's Red) as does everybody else. The population of Sperm Whales was reduced to almost extinction due to gun lubrication and automatic transmissions. Nothing can beat a modern synthetic lubricant. Think about it. A gun fires a few hundred (pros add another 0) rounds per year but your car goes full out for 6,000 miles (or more) all day, every day for hundreds of thousands of miles (at least I do, cause I hate buying cars) before PMCS. You get home and the Gun TLC comes out, while that car sits in the driveway hoping Jiffy Lube is in it's future. My dad, a Marine and Navy Reservist shot everything from the M1, M1911, M14, AR15, M9, M2 50 cal, plus all the guns he owned and used as a Security Guard, Parole Officer, CCW and just plain fun, always used Hoppe's #9 and Hoppe's or Gunslick oil at home. Grease was what he sold as a teenager working for Standard Oil gas stations to rubes that would listen to his BS and get their cars worked on (50's cars probably did need to get worked on). Safes with Goldenrods and desiccants have little to fear. I have heard of stories of GI's taking their rifles into the shower using soap and hot water to clean them (hard on wood I imagine). Hey I'm as anal as the next guy but if I wipe my corrosive finger prints off the metal and take a couple of passes at the bore with some cleaner and oil if it' going to sit much, I'm good to go. If your happy I'm happy.
Cleanliness is next to godliness.
Dave
The End..... :thup:
It was a pre-64 Winchester '94 Carbine - Gone now, but should have kept it! - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by EddieM