my new, broken 1903a3

I found and acquired a 1903a3 that needs some TLC. It's stock is broken at the wrist. The bolt handle has been mutilated, and the barrel was cut back.
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The price was good. The original Redfield mount made it better. I haven't been able to find a mount anywhere, and when I do see them they are very very expensive.

First up, it needs a new barrel. I can't find any criterion barrels in stock anywhere. Does anyone have any experience with the NOS barrels at Sarco? 1903A3 Springfield Barrel 4 Groove - SARCO, Inc

Check the CMP forum for NOS barrels and post in the WTB area. There are several people there who usually don't always advertise what they have, but they will respond to a WTB. Same goes for the stock. Are you wanting to restore to original military configuration, or keep it sporterized?

I have a new Minelli stock on the way - brownells has them in stock. Since it already drilled and has a good quality Redfield base on it, I will put it back to it's original configuration, swappable as a clone A4. I wanted to do a new production barrel, but can't find one. Next best at the same price would be a NOS usgi barrel. My only worry is that the Sarco found some long forgotten crate of rejects.

I saw some NOS barrels on ebay last week. Cant remember if they were A3 or 1903. They were still in the greased wrap. A seller from montana or wyoming.

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Originally Posted by ssgross

stock is broken at the wrist.

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That's too bad too. It's a really nice profile of sporter stock, just what I like. No easy repair either...too bad. Looks like someone passed it right across a tree to do it.

I just took possession today at my ffl and got it home. the underside of the barrel has some pretty bad rust going on, as does the front surface of the trigger. surface rust on the milled floor plate. The receiver is clean...the gunsmith that did the polishing and bluing left the parkerized finish under the woodline, and it did its job over the years. When I pulled it out of the box, the buttstock separated. here it is...
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I was hoping to find a mark, or penciled signature somewhere under the buttplate or in the inletting to identify the gunsmith. The job on the bolt handle is interesting. I've seen some jeweled 1903 bolts, but none like this. It looks like it was done "in place", as I can't see any evidence of the original being cut off and a new one welded on. Were these handles sold aftermarket? or did someone painstakingly redo the original?

as regards barrels...sarco says theirs is still packed in grease. if no one has anything negative to say to the contrary, I'll order one. what I saw NOS on ebay was a ridiculous price.'

Jim, if you would like to try your hand at fixing the stock, it's yours. I'll splurge for the shipping too if you promise to post every step in detail with pictures! There was no rear screw bushing, but likely as you said someone beat a tree with it. Sad...but it's in safe hands now!

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Originally Posted by ssgross

if you would like to try your hand at fixing the stock,

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No thanks, just too bad. Nice profile of stock.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Originally Posted by ssgross
if you would like to try your hand at fixing the stock,
No thanks, just too bad. Nice profile of stock.
Regards, Jim

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I'm half tempted to send you the postage for the lost case and take it on just for Shoots and Giggles. But I have too many projects already I need to complete. Would be fun though, It's one of those cases that fixing it would cost more than buying the replacement if it was brought to a shop and just not worth it. Because of the break location, that one is going to require grafting of new wood and inletting just so the stock would act as a solid piece again and hold correctly to the recoil and motion/flex.

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Originally Posted by usabaker

I'm half tempted to send you the postage for the lost case and take it on

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I thought about trying my hand at it just for the practice, but I despise sporter stocks with a cheekpiece...they are always on the wrong side!
postage would be on me, all you gotta do is fix it and post along the way.

My kids have already begun to speculate stories as to how it ended up this way...lots of fun.

I'm no sure it would be a successful repair, biscuits, dowels...pins... Nope.

I wouldn't want to own a rifle with whatever kind of repair this one needs.
Back to the task at hand...I just pulled the barrel off. It's cut just after the RA/Bomb/month-year, so just behind where the front sight milling was. The crown is nice and clean. Whoever did the work did it well at least. The rifling is bright and sharp. Threads are clean and...blued. Chamber needs a little polishing but otherwise after the rust on it's underside is cleaned off, it could likely serve someone's sporter project. I don't see myself ever building a sporter.
parts are all on their way. While I wait, I'll clean the barrel up, put the camera in it, and maybe post it in the WTS for a steal. For many parts, I'm using a mix of everything I have on hand left over from my other bring-back-to-life projects. It's gonna be a real queen, and a great shooter.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I'm no sure it would be a successful repair, biscuits, dowels...pins... Nope.

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Jim, this is sure to be a test eh? ... LOL the outside of the stock would be veneer for a chunk of hardwood inserted and bonded that would then need to be inletted after. I've done similar repairs on antique wood objects and furniture to preserve the look and grain. LOL - no real point in a repair like that but be fun to try....... if I had the time. But then what would you do with it after? I guess a shop conversation piece.

---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------

Nope .. I still have that RFI Enfiled .410 I need to start on.

we are starting to doubt the beat against a tree theory. There are no scratches on the exterior of the butt stock. I would expect some impact damage if it was beat against a tree.
My son learned to take a barrel off today. After we noticed some deep scratches on the receiver ring.
Attachment 116207Attachment 116206
They go all the way around. looks to me like someone tried to make due with the wrong (round) action wrench and failed.

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Originally Posted by ssgross

There are no scratches on the exterior of the butt stock. I would expect some impact damage if it was beat against a tree.

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Angry now ex-wife with a heavy foot perhaps?

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Originally Posted by ssgross

I would expect some impact damage if it was beat against a tree.

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Well, I did see an FN that was backed over with a deuce and a half...maybe someone drove over it. Doesn't matter. The scope mount was a steal.

My daughter has it! it was beat over a sturdy table...but with a tablecloth on it.

But it WAS passed across something, a deliberate action. Sort of what I meant.

I got this off my gunsmith for my shed apparently the farmer who owned the .22 Lithgow single shot was not the kind who checked his rifles to often.
This is what the termites did to the stock in between the times he checked his rifle :confused:. Not sure if he lived in a wooden farm house, be a bit pointy and a tad short to mount on ones shoulder.

Here is one I did a few years ago. It was repaired and the glue set but it was about a 1/2 inch off. I had to take it apart and clean it before it could be repaired. Turned out nice and it is a shooter.:cheers:

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Originally Posted by CINDERS

This is what the termites did to the stock in between the times he checked his rifle . Not sure if he lived in a wooden farm house, be a bit pointy and a tad short to mount on ones shoulder.

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Now there is a conversation piece

Just for funzies, I asked the seller if he knew anything. He replied with
"Sorry no idea. A guy brought it in to me. He got it from his dad and had no clue. He said he used it deer hunting about 20 years ago and it was fine. Then put it away and when he took it out it was broke."
Well, I would have never guessed 20 years of storage could break a stock like that!

I repaired a little Cooey .22 rifle stock once years ago for an armorer friend. The stock was in several small pieces and had a spiral crack as well. I reassembled it and sanded and stained...returned it and stood proudly presenting my work for his expert inspection. He looked at it and said..."Now WHAT exactly was wrong with this stock?" Where do you start...why would you. I just walked away.

order from Numrich came in...a new bolt body with bent/milled handle. It's marked CC at the root..very pretty. New safety lever to replace the Buehler low profile one...suppose I'll hang on to it in case I want to take this rifle hunting. The original sleeve is still good...polished with very nice bluing to match the polished cocking piece. I will likely polish the new safety lever and blue to match the sleeve and cocking piece.
I didn't think about it until I was taking inventory...but I have a hard choice. Should I keep the original extractor? it's polished and left in the white (with collar to match) or I have a new one. Or I could blue the polished one. Hmm. I don't care so much about "correctness" in the finish since it's already such a queen.
The bands and furniture is all NOS, and blued. I've got time to decide.

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Originally Posted by ssgross

Should I keep the original extractor? it's polished and left in the white (with collar to match) or I have a new one. Or I could blue the polished one.

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Can you flatten the polishing before bluing? Just a touch? Then it won't stand out much.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

Then it won't stand out much

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I guess my question is whether I want it to stand out? Poyer and some sources online indicate that USMC teams would have their match 1903's with highly polished (blued) floor plate and extractor.
plenty of time to decide.
I finished scrubbing the receiver and parts, and assembled to check the trigger....there is no 1st stage, and breaks cleanly at 4lbs. Took it back apart to investigate and I found a tac weld or solder on the nose...
Attachment 116323Attachment 116322
I didn't like the trigger anyway...very deep rust on the surface of the shoe. I have an original 1903 trigger with serrated shoe in my parts bin. When comparing, the humps are the same, but the nose is thicker on the altered trigger. I always thought you played with filing the hump to lengthen the first stage. Makes sense that lifting the nose makes the first stage permanently engaged. I may file down the altered trigger, play with the first and second stages, just for the practice. Fun Fun!!!! Barrel and stock should come in over the weekend.

indeed...the nose is 0.014 thicker on the ugly trigger.
...and my serrated trigger is bent to the side? oh well. vice and hammer straightened it out. it has 4 lb first stage, 6.75 total. I'll practice on the rusty welded trigger. I think I'd like to have 2.5lb ish first stage, and a crisp 2 + epsilon second stage.

EDIT: https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....ll=1#post42814
apparently, there is a proper way to adjust the trigger, and welding material to the nose of the trigger is NOT the right way.

I cleaned up the Redfield Jr. S-spec that came with the rifle. It came with 1 inch rings - they had a lot of rust on them, but the base and screws were clean. I took the scope on my Gibbs repro to check if those rings would fit...they are loose. I was lucky to splurge and score a pair of 3/4 Redfield split tops.
Next...a disappointment. the bent bolt I bought on Numrich wasn't ground enough to clear the scope. So now I search, and read the horror stories on those bolts :(. Good thing I'm only out $30 for getting a stripped one. It looks weird compared to the Gibbs bolt. I'll take some pictures. I guess it was too good to be true. I suppose I'll do some grinding and play with it, but eventually send one of my extra original bodies off to chuck to be done right.
Checking fit and function, cocking on open is stiffer than it should be. After investigating, and using another bolt, I found that the firing rod spring is curved/bent. It doesn't compress nice and straight like my others.

Sarco is bad news. Try CMP Sales for a new GI barrel. Lots out there.

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Originally Posted by Calif-Steve

Try CMP Sales for a new GI barrel

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My first choice was a new criterion. No one has them. CMP is still so far behind - I've been waiting 6 months for a couple bayonets and still no word. Tried to call once they politely said they were behind and not to call anymore.
The Sarco barrel says new still packed in cosomoline. A few folks have reported that is exactly what they got. If that's not the case for me I will return it, and wait I suppose. In the meantime I suppose I'll sell my Gibbs while the market is hot.

1903 (not a3,m1 garand,1917) barrel,SA mint condition - Rifle Barrels at GunBroker.com : 894750016

Thanks for lookin' out, but I'm working on an A3. The starting bid of that one is the same as I paid for Sarco for one NOS. Should come tomorrow. I'll swab the cosmoline out of the bore and take some pics for quality.

Barrel came in today. It was not packed in grease. there was some surface rust in the bore - full of dust not grease, but the rifling at the crown and was good and sharp, as was the chamber. The outside looked like it sat in a bin for a while.
I gave it a good scrub with with a bronze brush, wiped it clean and looked again with the scope. All the rust was gone. Metal looked nice and shiny, some minor scattered light pits from the surface rust - and a streak of copper about 6 inches in from the muzzle. I was worried for a bit that they sent me a used barrel, or a 2 groove barrel that had 2 extra grooves cut that I have read horror stories about. I imagine all barrels were proof tested before final fitting, which would explain a single streak of copper. The bottom of the light pitting showed no crud. In my experience a used barrel always has plenty of black crud packed in to every imperfection, and it certainly doesn't come out with just 20 swipes of a bronze brush. I would imagine it would look more "new" if it was a 2 groove converted to 4.

I cleaned off the threads, and tightened the barrel up onto the action aligning the index marks. If they gave me a short barrel then final headspace should be good, are very close. It is certainly very short chambered - no where near closing on a go gauge so I think I have a new one after all. Wouldn't you know my luck and the date on the new barrel is 7-43, which matches my serial number.

I don't care so much about the serial matching the barrel date. The barrel is worth keeping, but might not be right for this rifle. I just want to build a great shooter, and the imperfections in the bore worry me. But, once I finish ream it I won't be getting my money back.

SARCO barrel? Packed in grease? OK. Same ol' Sarco. The Dealers Warehouse, Modesto, CA has some 03-A3 parts. By the way, toss the CC bolt. (Sorry)

I'm taking my time deciding on the barrel, and I have a new one on the way, still in it's USGI packaging - I don't know if it's 2 or 4 groove. I also asked Sarco for an exchange - the more I though about it the more I concluded that "New old stock", advertised as still packed in grease, should not have come bone dry with a rusty pitting bore.
Here are some pics as it was out of the box...again I'm confident it was never used as the length is correct, and it is very short chambered.
Attachment 116532
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Bq3ou8WuZM
hmm...how to get video clip inside a post? I know I've done it before.

EDIT: must use YouTube, and post the ...watch?v=... version of the link.

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Originally Posted by Calif-Steve

By the way, toss the CC bolt.

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agreed. it is hideous.
While I sort out the barrel, I'll move on to fitting the stock. This will be my third Minelli stock, and 5th new 1903 stock I've fitted. I've seen several threads here asking about quality etc of these vs. the Boyds/cmp stocks. I'll pause here and do a thread on just the fitting as I go...starting with the unboxing.

I sent the Sarco barrel back for an exchange. If their replacement looks good, I'll keep it maybe for this rifle, maybe for another, if not I'll ask for a refund. I found a NOS 2 groove, Remington 2-44, at milcoll.com. Good news it was full of old dried cosmoline...hardened plugs of cosmoline at either end and soft gooeness in the middle. I just finished cleaning it all out...so here is what a new barrel looks like!
Crown, Middle, Throat
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRBd8y9svuc
screwed it into the receiver hand tight...stoped just past 1 o'clock...perfect
Hopefully I'll have time this weekend to work on some stock fitting.

I'm still waiting on making a barrel decision. I have this beautiful, blemish free new old stock 2 groove, and I'm still waiting to inspect Sarco's new old stock 4-groove. They sent me an email saying the replacement would not be packed in its original grease because they would be swabbing it out to check to make sure I get a minty one. I told them all I expect is no rust or pitting, and if there is I'll let them know and take a refund. If the 4-groover is in as poor condition as the first, then the choice is easy. If its minty like the first...then do I have to open the 2 vs 4 groove debate? No, I don't care and my research shows I can get great performance from either. My serial is July 1943. If I recall my references, by June 1943 Remington had completely changed over to 2 groove. So I could go either way since the bins would likely have been mixed in July 1943 (the last sarco barrel was 7-43). But its a parts queen so I really don't care about that either. So, I guess I'll just wait to compare the two bores, and pick whichever is in the mintiest like new condition!
While I wait, the stock fitting and sanding is done. So I'll start the finish.

Well, looks like the decision has been made for me...I'm going to go with the NOS 2 groove barrel on this project. Sarco's exchange came in today. I pulled it out of the box, looked through it - no grease. bone dry. Here is the borecam...more rust than the first, and heavy pitting in the throat...disappointing. At least there customer service seems ok. I'll let you know how getting a refund ends up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQG9dY9ln_8

so let's finish assembling this rifle! couple coats of raw linseed oil last night - for the first several coats I cut with 50:50 mineral spirits for deeper penetration. I rub it in with a soft cloth, completely saturating the wood, then let it hang and drip for an hour before wiping off the excess. I did this 3 times last night, and each time when I came back an hour later, there was no more left on the surface...it was all absorbed. The 4 time there was still some puddling after an hour. Tonight, I'll switch to full strength, saturate, let sit an hour, wipe away excess, repeat in 24hours. I'll do this for a week, then set it out in the sun and let the color develop. I'll try to take some pictures along the way.

I think I'm going to break down and buy a finish reamer and t-handle...finally...instead of renting again. I keep telling myself it makes sense to rent since I don't know if I'll ever need it again...but here we are 4 rifles later.

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Originally Posted by ssgross

I don't know if I'll ever need it again...but here we are 4 rifles later.

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Exactly, I buy my tools so I have them all now...right down to the lathe.

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

right down to the lathe

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I'm still dreaming of the day...when the kids are out of the house I'm going to quit this rat-race and go back to my much lower paying but set-my-own-schedule work. Hopefully there are enough milsurps left by then...

Pulled the front sight off the 2 groove barrel. I cleaned and cold blued under it for now, at least until I decide if it shoots worthy enough for sending out and re-parking the barreled action.
It's been a while or I'm getting older, and so I momentarily couldn't remember the direction the tapered pin went in, so I started searching and got conflicting answers on multiple forums...including this one. So, I took out another rifle I had to remove the sight on to verify (since its pin isn't frozen anymore).
So, for the record, and so I have an easy place to find it next time I forget...looking down the sights as if the rifle is in your shoulder, the pin gets pushed out from the right side...the narrow end of the taper is on the same side as the bolt handle. This has now been verified on a NOS barrel. I soaked it in kroil for a few hours while I mowed the lawn, wiped dry, hit it with a heat gun until the laser thermometer read 150 degrees, and used a 1/32 nail set to get it started. Fingers crossed I've never needed to cut one off, and I've never buggered one using this method. Worst case, it wouldn't start after a 4 good love taps, then it gets soaked overnight after trying, and comes out easily the next morning.

will torque the barrel on tomorrow.

didn't have time to put the barrel on...but screwed it on hand tight and got worried. About half an inch to close the witness marks together! The Sarco "NOS" barrel goes back tomorrow, but hand-snugs up to ~.2. The first one was the same, and I had it torqued on and aligned no problem.
What's the difference? I'm glad you asked. My NOS 2-groove has very heavy and rough parkerizing, all intact and pristine, all over the threads and shoulder. The Sarco "NOS" 4-groove has worn smooth, light parkerizing, hardly any left on the bottom couple of threads, and some dings on the edge of the cone. The first one they sent me was the same. I'm very convinced these Sarco "NOS" barrels came off of rifles. The original barrel snugs up hand tight to just under 1/8inch, and its threads are blued and smooth. I think it's all in the variances in finish.
I'll clean up the parkerizing on the threads and shoulder of my new barrel with a fine wire brush or fine wheel on a dremmel. Should do the trick, but I'm a bit nervous. I just finally shelled out for a reamer and handle...no more rentals, and now I might just have to send this out to get the shoulder pushed back - costs next to nothing more to have it finished reamed on the lathe.

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Originally Posted by ssgross

I might just have to send this out to get the shoulder pushed back -

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You can do that yourself gently with a machinist hammer. Just recreate the crush factor by tapping the edge of the shoulder all the way around. Not magic at all. Keep the reamer.

Took the day off work today...and I think it's going to be "trigger day". I just finished reading a copy of TM 9-1270. I also found a copy of Campbell's book. I miraculously found a used one for $30 online amongst other prices from $300 up. Surprisingly it was signed!
Attachment 117028
Anyone know Edwin W Busch (or Besch, depending on how one reads Clark's cursive)? I see that Mr. Campbell has posted here in the past.
Anyway, there is a nice summary of what I found in the TM. Both were a little confusing at first on their own, but gave plenty of clarification to each other.

Before I get dozens of posts about trigger worriers...thanks for your concern. I have a brand new trigger/sear set ready to go. I'm playing with restoring the original trigger. Take a look above. In addition to the rust coating the shoe, which has now been ground out and polished, material was welded on the front nose to permanently set the trigger after the first stage. It pulled a crisp 4.5lbs, but I don't like not having a first stage. Furthermore, that kind of alteration is a sloppy expedient, and bypasses the designed safety mechanism completely, rather than refining it. So, after hours of stoning and polishing last night, I have that weld fully removed, and reshaped to match my other trigger. Thankfully, whoever did the trigger job was too lazy to touch the humps. Rifle was't fired much because the bluing is still very intact on the receiver contact points. I'll take pics if I'm successful, and maybe even post my how-to.

Success!
I only buggered the sear spring experimenting...it was cruddy anyway and had already been ground by 1/2 coil, and I had a few more new ones in my parts bin anyhow.
After removing the spot weld material, I had my 1st stage back. Average was around 3lbs first, total of 5.5 with a lot of very gritty creep...polished all bright and the grit was gone, but still a loooong steady creep to break. There was still bluing on the contact surface of cocking piece engagement, and the edge was slightly uneven. I started there, cleaned up the edge with my triangular stone, and followed Campbell pg. 221 and lightly rounded the tip. Then I polished the engagement surface with a felt pad and the big green stick of polishing compound I have. Next, I looked at the sear. The edge was a bit uneven, and some tool marks on the face. I lightly stoned it even and square, then the same slight rounding of the tip, and polished it mirror bright. Then, I polished the underside of the receiver and top of the trigger. No sanding, just polishing compound which just removed the finish.
Check progress...5 lbs total, same 3lbs first stage, but a whole lot creep still. The main difference is every part of the pull is buttery smooth. I marked the sear face, and worked stoning down the engagement of the cocking piece notch, and the sear engagement, going slow and checking often. This took out about 3/4 of the creep. To get the rest, I moved some of the weight to the first stage by stoning the nose, or second hump. I could tell comparing against my new trigger that the second stage had been shortened by lowering the first hump before or after the weld trick was done. While I had brought back the 1st stage by removing the weld, It was very short...hardly no travel at all. Stoning the nose gave me back normal 1st stage travel. I test fit about 2 dozen times in all this, and finally had a 4.5lb trigger, with 2.5lb first stage, and no creep or travel after the 1st stage...broke like glass.
Next, I messed with the cruddy spring. It felt stiff when I compared assembling with it vs. a new one. I ground off half a coil on the old one to see what happened. 2 lb first stage, 4.5lb total. I took off another half coil. 2 lb first stage, 4 lb total, right where I want to be. But the trigger return is sticky now. So Cleaned all, light touch with a felt wheel to remove any traces of the layout fluid I had used, and hit the contact surfaces with Hoppe's dry lube, and reassembled. OMG....0.5 lb first stage, but returns to full engagement if If I let go, and a 2lb total trigger! That dry lube is SLICK!
After putting in a new spring, no alterations, I have a 1.75lb first stage, and 3.5lb total pull, with the Hoppes dry lube still on.
Now that I know what I'm doing ;) I suppose I'll make a thread just for the trigger, with pictures, and come back again for final assembly.

Got the barrel on today. Thanks for the suggestion, Jim, but no light hammering was required. I tightened it up and backed it off about 4 times, each time as far as I could reasonably get without yanking on it. This got me to within 1/8 of an inch, and the next iteration I pulled just a bit harder and it all lined up perfect.

Mailman brought me new Remington a3 bolt today from chuck, with handle beautifully worked. It's quite "new" in that I don't think it has never been fit. My receiver was polished and blued, and a well worn bolt glides like butter. This one is very tight. I lightly stoned the cam surfaces to smooth up any burrs and roughness, but only just enough to knock the finish back. This removed the "grittiness" in opening/closing the bolt and made it smooth, but still very tight. So, following the TM to fit this new bolt, I need "COMPOUND, valve grinding, fine (SNL K-2)".

Can anyone point me to an equivalent? None of the ones I can fine have a grit labeled. I have 220 wheeler I use for lapping rings, but that is likely too coarse. One automotive forum I read listed 220 as "fine".
I've also got plenty of room behind the safety lug, so I plan to also lap the lugs before finish reaming and setting the final headspace.

EDIT: Larry Mr. Potterfield likes 600 grit, I suppose this is good enough for me.
https://youtu.be/jMH5M0RKE1E

I have lot's of little things to do...fit the bolt, lap cams and lugs, finish ream, and after perfectly fitting the buttplate, the top screw is just a tad off and pulls the buttplate out of its perfect position when fully tightened, so that will need to be drilled out, plugged, and redrilled.
In the meantime, here is some eye candy after a week of daily coats of raw linseed oil.
Attachment 117203

well, unfortunately work has been getting in the way of my hobby. I lightly polished the cam surfaces on the bolt, easy enough. The shape of the cocking piece contact isn't like my other ones so I think it was altered. The original bolt hasn't sold yet - I think the tip of the cocking piece was lapped to death on that bolt when they were polished. The contact point along the cam of my new bolt is smooth now, but the the pull is still very heavy and sticky, even with grease, especially for the upper third. I swapped parts with my A3 buttery smooth and light to isolate the problem and it is indeed the cocking piece. After working it for quite some the edge of the bolt has left an imprint on the surface of the cocking piece, so I think the case harding was polished off originally. So I ordered a NOS cocking piece.

While I wait, I'm stealing an hour or so each evening to polish the bolt. I got it from chuck, who bent and milled the handle to perfection. However, the metal underneath was very matte with some evidence of fine pitting - likely he had to sandblast to make serviceable again. I told him not to finish it so I could polish and fit myself and, since I already polished the bottom metal after busting all the rust off and all the bands etc are classy blue NOS, I thought I should make the bolt match. I haven't touched the lugs yet, will do that last, then I'll finalize the trigger with the new cocking piece.

made some more progress.
Got all the bolt cam surfaces and the lugs lapped, and then finish reamed the chamber.
I then reassembled to check for final fit and function. The bolt chuck sent me polished up nice, and looks so damn sexy in the white I might just leave it like that. It is sleek, but needed some more room underneath - quite a bit actually. I spent the last several evenings with inletting black and chisels getting all just perfect there.
The the bolt handle laying perfect and the action tightened in the stock, I wanted to check feeding from the magazine. I have milled bottom metal, and a stamped follower of which I polished the upper surface. My dummy rounds pushed out of the magazine nice-n-smooth, but failed to slip up under the extractor without a good bit of force. Lightly stoning the underside of the claw made it work, but still isn't as smooth as my other rifles, so I'll spend some more time fitting the extractor.
Once I finish a few more coats of raw linseed oil and get the area under the handle to match, I'll take some more pics.

I was looking up something else, and found this video of Larry Mr. Potterfield reinforcing the wrist of a stock.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuQxjCI8OdQ
I don't really have any use for a fixed sporter stock, but since a couple of you thought the broken one on this rifle would be a nice stock if it could be repaired, I'm tempted to give it a go just for funzies and experience.

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Originally Posted by ssgross

I'm tempted to give it a go

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I recently was FORCED to extend a somewhat rare rifle stock that had been cut and then even the recoil pad was gone. Cut down for a woman or kid...I needed almost two inches to bring it back to 13 1/4" LOP. I had no choice but do an extension which turned out OK. You might do yours so you have a handle on how it goes, sometime you may NEED to do one. This would be good practice.

barreled action came back today. Great job as usual Chuck!
Attachment 120458
Bubba's bluing job wasn't the greatest, and now all that rightfully doesn't matter. Hopefully I'll have a range report in the next week or 2.

I sent him 2 barreled actions, the other was a highly polished a4 receiver that was another neglected sporter....that one is here https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....l=1#post506548

I finally had time to finish this project, and blue the bottom metal.
Attachment 120722
The milled set goes on this rifle, the stamped one goes with an a4 receiver in the thread mentioned above. I blued these with mark lee express no. 1.
I slathered another coat of raw linseed oil on the stock today while I rust-blued. I'll let it hang for a week to cure before re-assembling everything next weekend, then off to the range! I'll post some before and after's in a range-report....remind me to glue in the rear screw bushing too...the holes on these minelli stocks are liberally cut and the bushing slips freely.

Final stretches! After a week the stock is mostly dry to the touch, but still "curing". I assembled all, just hand tightening the action screws. My m82 repro came in from Hi-Lux and so I mounted the scope. I have an original redfield base with 7/8 split top rings. I tried mounting with both rings behind the scope knobs...but the rear ring then sits on the threads, and the locknut is just a hair to wide to clear the base, and the taper of the eyepiece quickly interferes with the base so you can just barely screw it on, making all out of focus. So, I had to remove the locknut to take off the sun-shade. Use a good set of snap-ring pliers to start the ring loose. There is some sort of orange wax..softer than loctite but enough to keep the ring from from coming loose, that holds it in place. Once that pops loose you can turn it with a finger. With the sunshade off, I could put the forward ring ahead of the knobs, and get perfect focus. Anyone have an untouched original? I'd be curious to see mic. measurements of it's length before and after the knobs, diameter of the locking, etc. Most of the pics of "originals" I see on an A4 show both rings behind the knobs.
Need to take some pics tonight I suppose...

Here we go. Pics of the original condition I found it in...before I bubba'd-it-back, are in the first posts... here1 and here2

Attachment 120901Attachment 120902Attachment 120903
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All that's left now is a trip to the range. I'm going to let it sit on the rack for another couple weeks first to finish curing before I give the outer wood a gentle scuff with steel wool and tighten all the screws up.

Looks just about right for some range time. I'd love to wring one of those out to see what it'll do...

haven't decided if I'll blue the bolt or not. Chuck did a great job on the handle...but the underlying metal was tired and worn so I polished for functionality while I tackled the rest. Now it's kind of grown on me. The upper band is a repro. Need to find an original that doesn't cost the farm. The low quality of the Minelli walnut shows, at the base of the handgaurd and a bit around the butt.

Looks fantastic! Should be a great shooter.
You say the scope base is original? I thought the originals had the "redfield" stamped on the rear portion, right side, with the angled back part. Yours has the circle R stamp on the front.
I have one with the circle R stamp, and I have always thought it was post war.

I suppose I meant original as in not a knockoff reproduction made in china. It's of course not parkerized, and has the rear tapped for backup iron sights.

Just to close this out...
First time out range report is here https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....415#post508415

Thanks milsurpers for following along and for all the help and support along the way.

I normally seek NOS barrels when I need to replace one, but they are short chambered and you will need to cut the headspace. It doesnt take much and it is low tech, but the chambering tool isnt cheap!

Headspace ended up perfect. I cut by hand until my go gauge shows just the tiniest bit left...then I switch and check with a live round FL sized in my press (all fire control removed of course). I aimed, and achieved, a perfect close with the tiniest bit of "stick" at the very end of the turn...so little no one else would even know it was there.

Sometimes with a NOS barrel there can be burrs from the original rough cutting of the chamber, or ugly spots from surface rust. Always check with a camera befor cutting, and polish if needed before and after cutting. I spin a sliver of 800 grit paper on the end of a stick in the chamber, or if it's really bad I polish with an 800 grit bore-hone. I have found cutting the final chamber like this not only gives great accuracy, but also increases brass life.

It's also good practice to check your t-handle will turn freely in the receiver without the reamer - sometimes the set-screw holding the reamer in place can stick out, and catch the side of the receiver. Don't ask how I know :)

There was quite a bit of copper in the last third of the barrel after its first trip to the range with only 40 rounds. Took it again last night after cleaning it all out...very little copper fouling. Here's as string of 10 consecutive rounds, 100 yards, no sight changes...
Attachment 121529
The 3 outliers are the first 3 shots trying to get a good sight picture. I could just barely make out the contrast of the red dot in the middle. The forth shot I was holding the post so I just barely saw a sliver of red, and drilled the dot out. The neon splatter-burst made it easier to see...and I drilled the next 3 right on top of it.. The seventh shot hit at 2 o'clock of the center, making that area more visible and as you can see, the consequence was walked out the last 3 shots in that direction from the added visibility of that area :)

I need more practice with this post reticle...but I think the rifle is certainly doing it's part, and ready for the big leagues!

I am sending the scope back to hi-lux for a replacement. With the reticle squared to the bore, the knobs are canted ~10 degrees.