The stock is actually in very nice shape except for a long crack on the bottom. There is no missing wood. What do you guys use to glue fine cracks? I've got gorilla glue that I don't care for, hide glue and super glue. What would you recommend?
The stock is actually in very nice shape except for a long crack on the bottom. There is no missing wood. What do you guys use to glue fine cracks? I've got gorilla glue that I don't care for, hide glue and super glue. What would you recommend?
A crack in that area is usually very hard to conceal. If the crack extends back into the area of the bridge, or where it was removed, you can pin it together there and add strength to prevent the crack from opening when twisted. There are other fixes, such as fiberglass mat in the channel. These are to add strength…..the crack will likely always remain visible.
Need a pic. :madsmile:
The crack is so small that it is nearly invisible. That is not a problem. I have threaded brass rod for reinforcing the bridge; again, not a problem. I asked about glue only! I know how to do the rest.
Never mind. Repairs completed.
Tite Bond is the best I have found for wood. Photo of repair?
I've got one I've had for 3-4 years and not sure what glue to try. Did you use the super glue? - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by jimb16
Superglue sucks. Tried it many times.
It's good for fixing finish blems on guitars.
Too brittle in my HO.Quote:
Originally Posted by USGI
The guy to ask is Painter....He's our stock repair specialist.
I know what Painter and Frank D would tell me. I've asked them before. Guess Jim isn't going to tell us what he used until he see's if it holds. :dunno: - BobQuote:
Originally Posted by jimb16
If you must know, after degreasing the wood involved. I put gorilla glue in the cracks and clamped it so the glue couldn't expand the cracks as it dried. Then I used a piece of broken glass to carefully scrape the excess glue off the wood before treating with raw linseed.
Wouldn't simple wood glue work? Or would it be too thick to put in the crack?
Wood glue doesn't hold well if there is any residual oil in the wood.
Thank you, I did not know that about residual oil which would certainly always be present in used Milsurp rifle stocks of any kind I would imagine.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimb16
I cleaned and cleaned a flaked out piece near a recoil to repair with Superglue. It didn't hold.
Idid the same in a couple high wood areas or low wood in the same regioin. They don't hold either. Gorilla Glue or Acraglas would have to work better.
The Superglue would look okay until you flexed it.
In my experience there is no Super in Super Glue. I've heard it was invented to close flesh wounds quickly and without stitches, don't know if that's true. It has two redeeming qualities: it dries very fast and it is light weight. That makes it popular when building RC airplanes and models from balsa wood. From every other standpoint, it sucks. Open a tube, use enough to cover the head of a pin and in a week it is all dried out. It is now sold in tiny tubes which are the cat's meow. It has some utility when working with mechanical watches as it is a substitute for quality Horology craft lathe work and is light enough to not ruin the work of the balance. I suppose it makes a decent thread locker, but Loktite works better. The ads showing a man hanging from his helmet that is glued to something are probably BS as I've easily broken a bond made with the Super stuff. I would imagine that a cracked stock repaired with super glue would work well until it breaks or comes off.
I would have used two part epoxy, but I hope that works for you. However I have used a CA glue called "Hot Stuff" for hairline cracks with good success. First cleaning out the oil in the crack with acetone several times and clamping or strapping the piece with surgical tubing. The glue flows into the crack for good adhesion.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimb16
Super glue was invented less than 2 mi away from where I live at Eastman chemical company. It was discovered totally by accident. I think they were working or trying to make heat resistant jet canopies and while testing it, they put a sample of it between two slides and ended up ruining a very expensive piece of equipment at the time at Eastman. Later on it was in fact used to treat wounds in combat in Vietnam. This is what I have always been told growing up in school
I have had great results with https://www.jbweld.com/product/kwikwood-epoxy-putty-1oz The benefit is "dries to the same density as wood". of course different woods have different densities, but you get the point. My main use case for this has been plugging and re-drilling stripped out butt-plate screw holes. Any run-out is easily shaped by chisel, files, rasp, sandpaper, etc. just like the surrounding wood.
When I was Function checking some of our clubs Carbines the small bore rimfire youth team was setting up. A young guy had a older WRA .22Lr pump that I thought was one like I have.
He let me look at it and showed me the 'Checkered Corn Cob' pump handle had had a crack repaired by his Father. The glue line was raised up but was solid. Kid said his Dad glued it with that UV glue. Seemed pretty solid but a bit messy. It was a big crack and I left wondering how the glue (Polymer I believe) deep inside would have cured, since I couldn't see how the UV light would have got to it to cure it.
FWIW