Hey Gents
Which is the best way to clean an M1 stock without hurt it? It doesn´t have stains to worry about just the normal wear.
Thank you in advance :beerchug:
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Hey Gents
Which is the best way to clean an M1 stock without hurt it? It doesn´t have stains to worry about just the normal wear.
Thank you in advance :beerchug:
There's lots of product to use. Some just use toluene, some use Acetone, Toluene or Volatile mineral spirits. I've used 1850 (liquid) furniture stripper and scotch brite to just clean and buff... Don't use sand paper or oven cleaner... You'll get the phone book here on this one.
Hey Jim,Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
Thank you for your reply, the products that you mentioned will only clean without hurt the finish and color? The wood and finish are ok but really I don't know when was the last time it was clean it, just wondering if would be a good idea to clean it before store it.
Have you ever used automotive wax, like turtle wax or another brand to clean stocks?
Regards :beerchug:
Here is a link to some old posts & many different opinions. This will open a can of worms from a light clean to a blo scrub to a ruined stock... Think preserving original patina...
Stock cleaning advice needed 9 nov 2014 repost - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.org
oil scrub stock cleaning - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.org
:madsmile::sos:
Most surplus stock are best kept as found. :confused:
Lets see a picture of some stock sections and a close up of the worst section???
I might just suggest a light application of ..."Howards orange oil ( NOT LEMON OIL ) or Kotton Klenser brand "Protective Wood feeder".
Please see the many references and methods used by others.
I just use Hoppes #9 and barrel patches to remove the grime, dirt, crud, etc. O ce all of those years of grime are removed, you can start rubbing in thin coats of raw linseed oil. M1 Garands and M1 carbines were originally1 finished with RLO. Or, as someone mentioned above, leave it as his as that is what the rifle has experienced in its travels. I personally prefer to clean and rehydrate the wood since it helps to prevent future cracking and will, IMHO, extend the life of that original piece of wood. Just don't sand it! Hope that helps!
It seems that Parallax Bills forum is gone ? The great reference may be gone, links to it are dead. Maybe they were saved to the Wayback machine archive? It will take some time to investigate
That's right only remove grime and hardened old finish like motor oil or whatever may have been put on. Your patina will be gone and the finish will be matt. I've never used automotive wax.Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieM
Hey 72 usmcQuote:
Originally Posted by 72 usmc
Very interesting links, thank you for your support.
I´m not trying to refurbish it, my main goal is to keep it as it is because it´s part of its history and character, my only intention is to try to clean in a light way the surface.
Regards :beerchug:
---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------
Hey Singer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Singer B
Totally agree with you, as always thank you for your support
Cheers :beerchug:
---------- Post added at 01:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:17 PM ----------
Hello Jim,Quote:
Originally Posted by browningautorifle
I read that isn´t the best way to use an automotive wax, but as its main purpose is to protect it leaves a very light film but hard to protect the wood surface.
Regards :beerchug:
car wax NO.
Check out Toms 1/3 wax. Many like it, but it leaves the stock looking too new & fresh for my taste. Products
Toms 1/3 Mix - YouTube
A thought, I would get some 1/3 wax and a jar of Kotton Klenser wood feeder and try it on an old board and see what you like best.
I use Kotton Klensers wood feeder at the Antique store and on gun stocks to maintain a dull finish that re-oils dry wood. Not on oak. The 1/3 wax works on stocks with a thick finish and produces a nice shine to the wood. OK on oak. Just depends on what you want. Also see the CMP M1 link in the second link about wood conditioning M1 stocks:
Wood Cleaning Article - Civilian Marksmanship Program
You should not have a shiny finish on a M1 carbine, so you do not want to use wax. Just stay with the RLO for the correct finish and wipe it down with RLO once or twice a year to keep it hydrated and correct in appearance.
Most say that I´m a newbie with stocks. Nice videos I just saw it and the oil scrub too, thanks again.Quote:
Originally Posted by 72 usmc
Cheers:beerchug:
---------- Post added at 03:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:49 PM ----------
Yeah I agree, thank you again SingerQuote:
Originally Posted by Singer B
Cheers :beerchug:
I use a cotton fibre rag dampened (not soaking wet) with distilled water. Do no harm. You don't want to wet the wood and it's basically elbow grease. Afterward protect the wood (both inletted areas and exterior) with Renaissance Wax.
see page 8 for preserving original finish and patina.
http://www.nramuseum.org/media/10073...20wicklund.pdf
Also, renaissance wax s also used to preserve antique furniture in other museums, and works great on old stocks. - instructions come with it.
EddieM, the fundamental question is: What do you want to do with the rifle?
- Clean it?
- Preserve it?
- Use it?
At the moment you have received a mixture of responses that are not all compatible with all the options listed above. For instance, the link to the museum site, with its repeated recommendation of Renaissance Wax, is not very helpful if you actually want to use the rifle. The museum notes hint discreetly that wax is not ideal for a gun that is to be used. I would put it more bluntly - avoid wax on anything that is to be handled!
Why? Because wax is super as a preservative. It fills and seals the pores of the wood. And is highly resistant to chemicals. Which also means that once you have waxed a surface that‘s it! Fine - if you never handle the waxed surface - but grubby wax is just about impossible to clean and you will never get it out of the pores again.
And if you study the various contributions on these forums about stock treatment - as I hope you will before doing anything irreversible - you will learn that the vast majority of military stocks were treated with a linseed oil based finish. Finish is not quite the right term, as the major feature of linseed oil is that it soaks into the pores and grain of the wood.
That‘s enough for the moment, and as always, that‘s just my opinion. I don‘t want to re-invent the wheel, so to speak. Just read the numerous posts on this topic before doing anything irreversible - like applying any kind of wax/laquer/varnish/snake oil.
Go carefully!
Patrick
I avoid chemicals of any type.
I like distilled water and cotton rags. I wear rubber gloves so I don't transfer any oils onto the wood. I dampen (not soak) the rag and then rub the wood to remove dirt.
---------- Post added at 02:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:15 PM ----------
Another vote for Renaissance Wax for preservation of wood, metal and leather. It is PH neutral, microcrystellene and was developed by the conservators of British Museum and is used by museum conservators worldwide. Doug Wicklund is a good guy but he had to take an early retirement (budget is down at the NRA).Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgross
I have had very good luck with Murphy's Oil Soap ,warm water and a nail brush. Lather /rinse/repeat. It removes the dirt without leaving residue which would impede the soaking in of RLO/BLO.