1910 Sandersen Hooked Quillion Bayonet - Looking for help with authenticating

Hi Guys,

Picked up my first 1907 hooked quillon bayonet earlier this month and looking for information and opinions. Main questions are...

What are the significance/issue location denoted by the serial number on the guard? (I haven't seen this font before on a hookie)

Regarding the condition, what is the best option for conservation?

Value? (I paid $1000 AUD for it so just checking if I got ripped off :lol:)

Thanks for your help guys, your expertise is always greatly appreciated!
Best Regards,
Sam.

Looks good to me. The serial number is just that, a tracking number. Issue would be recorded to an individual, maybe numbered to his rifle. I don't think you were ripped.

Conservation means first and foremost "do no damage."
No cleaning or de-rusting would be the best choice (I.M.H.O.)
If you want to handle it or look at it just lightly oil it with a thin mineral oil. (NOT "spawn of satan" WD40!)

Long-term storage then do what the military did, cosmoline or wax-based coating. (Inspected occasionally.)

Hi ColinA And browningautorifle,
Thanks for your info and advice!
Any idea on the location of issue based off the font of serial number on guard? I was thinking SA or maybe NZ but not sure.
Re the conservation, I have seen far to many "reset" which is always a shame. My plan was to oil with some CRC long life, nothing too drastic such as boil and card.
Best Regards,
Sam.

I see it has a "Sold out of service" marking...odd for me to see that. By the way, most any oil applied will dry after time and turn to a varnish type finish. I had a 1928 Thompson that had a nickel bolt, after a time of oil and no use the bolt looked yellow. Be aware. Easy to remove once it's seen though.

An old friend found this hooked quillion bayonet for me years ago at a remote gun show. It was among some Japanese bayonets. never been able to locate another one !

The unit markings are also shown tooAttachment 129780Attachment 129781Attachment 129782Attachment 129783Attachment 129784

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ColinA

Conservation means first and foremost "do no damage."
No cleaning or de-rusting would be the best choice (I.M.H.O.)
If you want to handle it or look at it just lightly oil it with a thin mineral oil. (NOT "spawn of satan" WD40!)

Long-term storage then do what the military did, cosmoline or wax-based coating. (Inspected occasionally.)

---

The military instruction for bayonet preservation :

The protective covering (HS5773) was a Lanolin / Coal tar mixture as detailed below :

Renaissance Wax is an excellent preservative coating for edged weapons. Developed for the British Museum for items in their collections. I live on the very humid Florida Gulf Coast where the average relative humidity is above 70%. My bayonets live in a non-air conditioned garage. Many have been there for 30+ years and are nicely rust free with a single application of Ren Wax. I rub some wax into a flannel 2" x 2" patch and use that as an applicator. Wipe on, allow to air dry for 10 minutes or so then buff gently with a lint free cloth. An old, well washed Tee shirt is perfect. When properly buffed the metal will have a very smooth feel and a slight shine. If it feels at all sticky, buff a bit more. I also use it on the machined surfaces of my wood working equipment like the top of the table saw, soles and sides of hand planes etc. Firearms I don't expect to shoot often or at all get a coat. While it seems a bit pricey, a very small amount goes a long way. In 32 years I'm on my second 7 ounce jar.

About the going rate for one in that cond I've seen Lithgow ones at $4k and everything in between, my friend years ago lucked onto one for $400 Aud just before the prices went south.

I was given a cast off that had come from a museum somewhere, still had the inventory number on it. It came as a gift for graduating a particularly hard military course. When it sold in the '90s, it went with the collection of bayonets for the #1 Mk3 I had at no particular premium. They weren't as valued then, it was ten years after they shot up...

Hindsights worth a million bucks Jim the cars we've had and bikes be worth a small fortune now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by CINDERS

Hindsights

---

There was no way to know. Nothing even remotely forecasted it.

If we could, we would have played the stock market and made much better returns than militaria ever will.

20, 30 years ago you could barely give Civil Defence and Home Front items away but now it's more sought after and prices have risen. One has to assume that it is the internet that has caused the value of all these things to increase.

All true...

That and 2 other factors, desire to own that piece, and deep pockets.

Hi Sam,
Sorry have only just seen your thread regarding your hook quillion. Firstly you didn't get ripped off, that's a good price for the condition of the piece. Presume there was a scabbard, which should have a tear drop frog stud.
The numbering on the crossguard is from New Zealand. The font and size is specific to New Zealand and they used it on Pattern 1888 bayonets through to Pattern 1907's.
As far as restoration goes you really don't need to do anything by the look of your photographs. There does not appear to be any new rust only patina. To remove patina is possible but you will destroy the profile lines of the bayonet. For any new rust use Renaissance Metal De-Corroder, its brilliant.
Do not use any oil at all and as mentioned previously the waxes are good, however, you can simply use petroleum jelly that I have used on my collection for 40+ years. It doesn't build up and can be removed and reapplied at will, especially when pieces are being handled. The best part is its quick to use and normal room temperature smooths out any lines that appear when applied. You don't need to use a lot of it. One warning though is do not use it on leather as in some cases it promotes a fungus. Cheers.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TheAlpineWolf

Hi Guys,

Picked up my first 1907 hooked quillon bayonet earlier this month and looking for information and opinions. Main questions are...

What are the significance/issue location denoted by the serial number on the guard? (I haven't seen this font before on a hookie)

Regarding the condition, what is the best option for conservation?

Value? (I paid $1000 AUD for it so just checking if I got ripped off :lol:)

Thanks for your help guys, your expertise is always greatly appreciated!
Best Regards,
Sam.

---

Nice honest hookey, the hardest part now is finding the correct early MK1 scabbard to go with it, I actually think they are harder to locate than a 1907 hook quillion itself.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mrclark303

the correct early MK1 scabbard to go with it

---

On eBay a chap in Holland still has them but they are £60 each.

Nice honest bayonet, I’ve lost touch with prices in the UK, need to have a good look, as selling a lot of my 1907 collection off including two hookies.
Just come to that time in life and the interest hike hasn’t helped matters even L42A1 and a No4t is going ?......... but that was part of the plan, just a few years earlier than expected.

Thank you everyone for your info and help!
Im glad that it an original and happy have added it to my collection.
Best Regards,
Sam.

Bigduke, I am trying to send you a PM about ...'a No4t is going' -but your inbox is full so my message can't go.
Can you clear out your inbox or PM me?
Rob

- duplicate -

Ok Rob, I’ll have a clear up.

Rob, cleared some space and sent a PM but won’t send ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bigduke6

but won’t send ?

---

Is your sent items folder still full, i.e. did you just clear space from your inbox? If so you won't be able to send anything.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Flying10uk

Is your sent items folder still full, i.e. did you just clear space from your inbox? If so you won't be able to send anything.

---

I,d forgot to renew my donation F10, so PM storage was down to 200, I had about 1900 +, I cleared everything plus donation updated.

Yes NZ issue, the sale mark is expected on these early NZ hookies it was applied when sold to NZ so is not really "sold out of Service" as people think when thinking SoS
The Mk2 scabbard would be correct as the Mk1 is 1908 & 1909 & this is a 1910 which is the most common year for NZ hookies

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 5thBatt

it was applied when sold to NZ so is not really "sold out of Service"

---

First time I've heard that. Very interesting. So just leaving the original supply chain...