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Anyone recall using Radocy Zinc Phosphate Parkerizing solution? I used to buy it thru takedown guides @ http://www.takedownguides.com, which is no longer a live link. I still have a 1/2 gallon left in a gallon bottle, but it's been around a long time and likely would need to be tested on something to see if it's still good.
I recently started searching around for it but no longer see it.
Anyone been Parking with a liquid zinc and care to share the maker name?
Thx
Triple7, my Zinc solution is https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/zinc-phosphate-parkerizing-solution-p/zps.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by painter777
I've had it a few years but the color hadn't changed last time I used it.
My Manganese solution (also Duracoat) started out darker gray/green but now produces a dark black finish.
I've just added water as needed when I lost volume to evaporation.
Triple777's one of my favorite slots :cool:
Thank You JV,
That was the one I had bookmarked. To look at and try to compare the ingredients of it to the Radocy Zinc line. I see the Duracoat Zinc is 1 gallon Park solution to 4 gallons water.
Radocy reads 4 ounces Park solution to 1 gallon water. BTW I looked today and dug out the opened 1/2+ gallon I have still boxed but with another full unopened gallon.
I must have bought the 2- 1 gallon jug kit back when I bought it.
I'll test the open one on something when the garage warms up enough to hang out in and report results. I believe I have the receipt in a folder along with printed instructions and notes.
Won't be real soon, we're under a Winter Storm Ice Warning the next few days. Calling for near 1" of ice and 3" of snow with 35mph gusty winds. Hate these ice storms :bitch:
Again.... Appreciate you taking the time to help again :thup:
ETA; Zinc Phosphate Parkerizing Solution
I have a carboy of Parco Lubrite 2 I bought probably nearly 40 years ago - how times flies - and it's still perfectly usable. Some of the constituents tend to precipitate out, but I just mix 'em in again.
For a nice grey park, I use Ospho. It's a metal prep commonly found in hardware stores in the paint section.
Hey Ron 308,
Rob here, Another Alaska-ite,,,
I have had a little previous experience with Ospho and I always thought it was good stuff.
Care to elaborate on your formula or procedure
For using it as a parking solution? Thanks
Hello Rob!
I mix Ospho with water in a 30-1 ratio (30 parts water to 1 part Ospho) and run it up to a temperature that's just before boiling. 175-180f should be about right, if you have a meat thermometer handy. Once you start to see some steam coming off, you'll know you're close.
I use a stainless tank of the appropriate size and a propane heater for my heat source. You should always do it outside because the fumes are dangerous.
After blasting the metal, I degrease it with brake cleaner (old formula, not the "green" stuff) and blow it dry (compressed air). But it has to be "clean" air. Like if you were running a paint gun, with a drying filter. You can't have any oil contamination or the park won't take where the oil (including fingerprints) are or you can let the brake cleaner evaporate off the parts naturally if you don't have clean air.
Then I suspend the parts with wire into the solution (or for small stuff, just toss them in) and let them soak until they achieve the darkness of color I am after. You have to be quick in the time between finishing the prep and submerging the parts into the solution so they don't get rusty.
The parts should "bubble" as the solution does it's thing. I will continuously agitate the parts to ensure a even coverage. For thin or small parts, it doesn't take long, maybe 5-10 minutes. Thick parts, like a bolt, might take 10 more minutes longer. And not all the parts will end up with the same shade. Thicker or harder parts will usually end up darker than thin and small parts.
I remove the parts from the solution and if I deem them done, I transfer them directly to a hot water bath and agitate them to get all the solution out of the nooks and crannies. Once I remove them from the water, I dry them and quickly oil them to set the park and prevent flash rusting.
Keep an eye on your solution level. If it gets low (as it will as the water evaporates) add more water to compensate.
The vapors are harmful so wear appropriate PPE. A dust mask isn't good enough, you should use some kind of respirator. And because Ospho is an acid, make sure you don't get any on your skin or in your eyes. Wear glasses and gloves.
When you're done, let the solution cool and you can bottle and reuse it.
Sludge and debris will collect at the bottom of the container as the solution cools, you can salvage all the solution to reuse but don't keep or reuse the dregs.
It may sound tedious, but I've been doing it for years and I find it to be a lot of fun.
Thanks Ron, I have always wanted to experiment with Park.
Always seem to get hung up at the sandblasting part, as I have no blast table,
And don't know anybody who does. Another project on the drawing board I guess,,,
Again,, Thanks for taking the time to detail out your process!
Rob
Can Anyone point me in the right direction on how to bookmark a thread? Thanks
I don't have a sandblaster either but that doesn't stop me from parking stuff.
I will use a scotchbrite pad to rough up the part and remove any rust and then toss it in the park tank and see what happens. It usually turns out fine.
It's kind of like cooking versus baking. In baking, you have to be precise in your measurements and temperatures or it will be a disaster while when you're cooking, you throw together whatever you have around and it will usually come out edible.
Thanks Ron,
Aim small, Miss small,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, i'll have to give it a go !
Dulite in Connecticut have Park solution available. I'm not sure if they only have manganese or offer zinc also. Very nice folks to deal with but they don't sell small quantity anymore because of the sheer expense of shipping it by truck freight. Common carriers won't carry it because it's considered hazardous material. Five gallons is the minimum. I use the manganese for restorations and after bead blasting with fine glass beads, the finish is outstanding. Usually too good to paint and bake!
I looked at the DuLite website this morning and they do have ZP440 available. Five gallons is the smallest you can get now thanks to the expense of truck freight because of hazmat.
I just cooked a pile of No.4 Enfield parts yesterday with the DuLite manganese phosphate and they are too nice to paint/bake which is happening today! I asked about their bluing, (black oxide) chemicals too when I spoke to them last year and they told me they are unchanged since developed preWW2. It's correct on North American production No.4 rifles and small parts as well as TSMG etc., etc..