This is coming up for auction and I haven't a clue as to what I need to look for. Is it genuine or a fake? I may not be able to afford it at the end, but if I am in the ballpark, it will help to know if it is a correct rifle. Thank you!
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This is coming up for auction and I haven't a clue as to what I need to look for. Is it genuine or a fake? I may not be able to afford it at the end, but if I am in the ballpark, it will help to know if it is a correct rifle. Thank you!
Hard to tell on an M1D (barrel mounted M84) without papers.
I could see that one of the screws on the scope mount was messed up indicating someone other than an armorer messed with it. Since it is an auction piece, there are no papers. It is part of a large collection that is being sold. Thank you for your input since I consider it very important!
I can only speak to the cheekpad but it looks to be original. Russet vegetable-tanned cowhide at 7/8oz. Correct triangular back tack pattern that locks in the stitch from the Randall stitcher.
Good Day,
Concur the cheekpad looks GI. I'm not confident without closer pictures of the markings and block 'face'. The 90 degree angle of the block on the right side is reminiscent of the reproduction blocks.
Original cheek pads are very common. FWIW, one thing I looked for was whether the front of the pad was molded to the comb of the stock... if it has been used, it usually gets formed to the wood a bit.
Attachment 134050
The screw head in the thumbscrew isn't original is it? They're riveted. I've never seen a slotted screw head inside the thumbscrew.
Very helpful information, thank you!
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...eWqjilW4-1.jpg
The astute observer will note the one-inch M1D mount with weaver K4-60B scope
IF, the mount is original, it could be someone (not the military) utilized a slotted 5/16x32NF slotted screw to "repair" a GI mount which the original riveted screw broke. Over the years I've found three examples where the screw was missing (broke?) or had been replaced with field expedient substitute. Most older reproductions had the screw welded, but i seen one that was a ad-hoc repair of an original.
The drawing number on original M1D barrels ends in 555. This is located under the rear hand guard or on the right side when the op rod is pulled back.
I got priced out of it. Based upon your responses, I have a feeling this is a bubba job. Normally a rifle like this hits $1,000 in the first week on the auction but this one took over two weeks so I suspect other bidders feel the same. Thanks again to everyone for your help.
Just a follow-up, this rifle sold at auction for $5,750 so I assume someone believed it was genuine.