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Im going to keep my minty WRA carbine..Ive soaked it 24 hours in mineral spirits..its done zip..is there a stronger chemical? acetone?
How long can I keep the metal submerged, I want the park to be nice green, and the blue..blue..no metal damage..
Its frustrating..thanks for the help..Andy
Acetone works well. Heat works well... as well.
You could pour/dunk boiling water on the metal then quickly slather breakfree onto it.
I've used carburetor cleaner in an aerosol can on the dried cosmoline with good success. No adverse reactions to finish. Use in well ventilated area. Apply and scrub with old toothbrush. You will have to use some elbow grease on your project Andy.
Ok, if I use carb cleaner..leave it soaking, or spray it on, then scrub right away?
Maybe soak in mineral oil, then carb cleaner..then scrub? Im afraid of hot water..rust!!!
Andy
Andy, when folks talk about hot water, they mean boiling or near boiling. It's the old standard way of doing it. If you're dunking the parts you'll see the cosmo quickly float to the top of the pot or pan. When you retrieve the hot metal it'll dry immediately. Then coat lightly with oil.
Oh, and don't pour the stuff down the drain...dump it outside.
HTH
Phil
Carb cleaner out of an arasoll can will work fine. It will evaporate quickly though. Put a rag under it while you spray to try and stretch it out. Use the tooth brush and do a little at a time, then use the soaked rag on what you have brushed. Oh, don't forget the gloves & eye protection. Spray the small parts while in a container that you can seal to save on the carb cleaner. It works for me, good luck and please post before and after pics.....Frank:cheers:
Andy, before you do anything else, post a couple of photos of the dried greese you want to remove. I have a very nice 5,598xxx WRA carbine that has traces of dried greese in the finish, but other than a regular cleaning, I left it alone. Unless is is really bad, I feel it is part of the carbine's history and should be left alone.
It may be dried linseed oil rather than cosmoline -- and that is very hard to remove -- I have had success dipping the corner of a rag in Formby's furniture polish remover and rubbing vigorously.
JFP
You guys bring up a good point in this thread. Please excuse the slightly off topic post. I have have the opportunity to buy a supposedly "all correct M1 Garand" (Springfield, 1943) that is used, but in cosmoline and wrapped.
It comes from the estate of a noted collector so I'm sure it's not bogus.
What would you recommend? If I purchase it -- do I clean it up -- or do
I leave it "as is" for historical(and value) purposes?
Comments appreciated. Thanks.
Mike J,
Tough question.......
I like removing the old cosmo.
I've found that when it's dried rock hard, it can effect the cycling.
I'd go with freshly cleaned....oiled and grease where needed.
JMO
Charlie-painter777
I've used Lacquer thinner with good results. Leaves the patina alone and works fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by Garandrew
Other friends have had good luck with gas or Gunk spray cleaner.
JMO
Charlie-painter777
I just wipe the receiver and barrel with Hoppe's. For the other parts, a quick cleaning with carburetor cleaner or lacquer thinner, after complete disassembly (bolt and trigger housing). Then a spray with CLP. An amazing amount of gunk, dirt, oil, grease and cosmoline collects on or in these small parts and it can cause malfunctions, especially if you are in a cold climate. Since I live in Arizona where it's hot I use a little grease on the bolt lugs and slide guide slots.
I inherited a mummy wrapped 1903a3, full of cosmo, still in the box it was shipped in in 1957. I enjoyed cleaning it up -- all or mostly original Remington, -- and shooting it. Take some pics of before and after. It's a nice feeling to be able to handle and shoot a piece of history like that. Here are my pics, also check out the after pics:
1903a3 BEFORE pictures by Selmalinapilchard - Photobucket
At work I used a commercial parts washing machine that uses near boiling hot water and steam cleaner detergent to degrease a few rifles..Of course they were rinsed in fresh water afterward and oil was applied liberally while still hot.. That was about 15 years ago..Recently I noticed dots of rust stains welling up through the Parkerizing on one of my rifles that went through the parts washer.. If it was me I'd go with the carb cleaners or solvents knowing what I know now.