Looks good now.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I knew my notecard shim wasn't the long term solution. There is also a little twist-play in the stock even when all the slack is out of the bolt. I'll probably need to get clever with a shim that isn't just on the bottom, but wraps around the ferrule.
Notes from Peter Laidler in 2008
The BUTT. On the face of it, it’s a simple enough job. Just unscrew the old and bash the new one on and screw it up. But that’s JUST what you might do ….., screw it up! If you have a look inside the but socket of the rifle, you’ll see that it is actually tapered and it’s tapered for a good reason. That being to keep the butt TIGHT. All new butts are slightly oversize at the butt socket and what we do is to fit the front end into the butt socket and tap the rear end of the butt, where the heel and toe butt plate screw holes are, with a rawhide mallet so that you start to see witness marks from the rifle butt socket. Then with a rasp or coarse file, rasp away GENTLY until the butt starts to fit into the taper of the butt socket. Keep doing this and you’ll visibly see it going further into the butt socket. Ideally (but certainly on a grenade launching EY rifle), with a last tap of the rawhide mallet the butt should bottom out into the underside of the socket. It should be horizontal to the rifle.
Now for the important bit. The wooden shoulder of the butt, the part that sits proud of the butt socket, MUST be clear of the butt socket and there should be a gap of about 2mm between that edge and the actual butt socket. Have you got that? There MUST be a gap of about 2mm between the steel butt socket and the butt. If there isn’t a gap, then you can be sure that a sliver of wood WILL break away. The butt MUST be tight in the socket and in an ideal world, according to the REME Armourers bible, the wood of the butt MUST (but in civilian circles, should) be proud of the socket by approx 1/16” and the edges should be crisp and sharp. Now, remove the butt and slap on a xxxxing good coating of XG279 or automotive high melting point grease.
Some of you will by now have noticed that there are TWO shapes inside top surface, inside the No4 rifle butt socket. The OLD ex SMLE shape with a rounded step on the right and a tapered step on the left and the post 1942 (?, but that’s what we called them …..) shape of two rounded steps.
Officially, and according to our EMER’s, you CAN fit a double rounded stepped butt to a single round/taper step body after adjusting the wood accordingly. But you CANNOT fit a single rounded/taper step butt to a double rounded butt socket. This is because, try as you might, you’ll never truly get it tight ….., or if you do, it won’t last!
That’s the OFFICIAL party line. But if you think that any old, wise and weary old Armourer Sergeant would allow you to wait until a stock of double rounded butts arrived, from stores in England to Korea or Aden or Malaya or wherever you were, you’re WRONG. It was quite common practice to simply dovetail, glue, patch, peg and make off the butts to get to the type you need. Simple isn’t it.
How tight do I tighten the stock bolt? I cannot find a specific torque figure but if I said to you xxxxing tight would be about right, then we won’t fall out but don’t forget to put the double coil spring washer in first followed by the stock bolt covered in the same grease. I nearly forgot. Before you put the stock bolt into the butt, with your long ‘BIT, screwdriver, stock bolt', check that there is a metal washer inside the butt. You’ll easily tell by the metal to metal sound. If there’s NOT, then PUT ONE IN. And DO NOT, DO NOT tighten the stock bolt up with the fore-end fitted because if the stock bolt does protrude into the body, then you WILL bugger up the rear of the fore-end and rest assured, a cock-up like that will ensure that you will be buying the tea’s and buns at tomorrows tea break.
Read that a thousand times over. The butt is proper for the single-step socket. My guess is it shrunk as it dried out in storage, and will come back after a few years in my almost constant 50% humidity in northern Virginia. I'll need to keep an eye on it though - loosen the butt slightly if I'm not going to use it for a prolonged period.
Went to the range, and like an idiot didn't bring any proper targets with nice big black bull to look at. best I could find in my bag was 2" orange stickers and the back side of a student's old calculus exam (they get recycled into targets when they don't show up to class to get them.)
Attachment 105597
I shot off a simple front rest only, with cheap ammo. The orange sticker barely stood out at 25 yds. Shot my final 8 rounds at 100 yds trying for a bottom hold on the white rectangle. I was all over the place as I screwed with the front sight, but last 3 shots were just left with about a 2.5inch spread as expected.
I slugged the barrel last night. Slug is tight until halfway from the muzzle, then it slips and feels like it moves freely toward the chamber. So, I slugged both ends separately several times each looking for inconsistancy, tightening the slug by tapping it between 2 brass rods. I get .304 on the lands, and .322 on the grooves everywhere. My borecam shows the first half of the barrel a bit more polished and than the latter half. A little more JB paste on the muzzle half might help out.
Thanks everyone for your input, help, and support. It's been fun - no I'm ready to do another one! If anyone wants to know - the target pic is from a free android app called Range Buddy. There is a better one called "Ballistic X" that does more than just measure targets, but it's $8 and it's not $8 better than the free one.
Think thats a typo Al de :lol: