Replacement stock on previously sporterized 1903a3 - several questions

First post – thanks for letting join this site.

My dad passed away last year and I inherited his sporterized 1903a3. He took a lot of mule and white tail deer (and maybe an elk or two) with it over the years. While he did a nice job sporterizing the original stock, it doesn’t come close to fitting me (6’3”, 240 lbs, long neck and arms). I’m planning to replace the stock with one from Boyd’s, then bed the action and float the barrel myself.

Current specs are:

• Remington-manufactured in 1942
• Serial number: 41065XX
• Original 2 groove barrel
• Dad replaced the trigger with a Timney (very nice break) and added a scope.

Questions:

• What is the purpose of the “dual stock reinforcing bolts” on the original rifle?
• Are these necessary in an aftermarket stock like Boyd’s?
• From a fit and utility standpoint, am I missing something that might affect restocking the rifle (I’m not very concerned about aesthetics)?
• Does anyone have experience with Boyd’s aftermarket stocks (good or bad)? Any other sources for completely inletted wood stocks for a 1903a3?

Side note - due to his health, dad didn't shoot this rifle for the past 15 years minimum. I took it out of the case, loaded it, and bench shot 1 1/4" groups at 100 yards without tweaking a thing. Even with the 2 groove barrel, this is a fine rifle.

Thanks for your advice – I look forward to providing feedback on the finished project to this board.

Is the barrel original length and sights? I see the scope mount, if original it shouldn't need headspaced. If that's what you mean by space... Pics would be nice too.

Jim - Yes, the barrel is original length and stamped RA 11-43 at the bore. Any original iron sights have been removed. Apologies, I should have said that I would float the barrel in the new stock. Not replacing the barrel and headspacing is not an issue. I'll see about pics when I can.

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Steve - the original stock is at least 1 1/2" too short (LOP) (I'm a big guy) and I have to raise my face off the stock about an inch to see through the scope. I thought about spacers (I've used these successfully on shotguns) and a big recoil pad, but that doesn't address the scope issue. Also, I have a hard time with straight grips due to some early arthritis issues in my wrists. This is a rifle that should be shot and I want to be able to shoot it effectively and comfortably.

I have fitted 2 Boyd's stocks from CMP, and one Minelli from Brownells - so my 2 cents really only applies if you plan to put one of these military stocks on it. If you like it as is, and it's current configuration has sentimental value, than spacers are the way to go. I have even seen some people add blocks inside a slip-on gel recoil pad you can get an extra ~2in, plus the 1in gel this way with no alterations or refinishing.
On both of the Boyds, the fit was in the action was sloppy and required a lot of work, especially around the tang. The bottom of the tang area was cut very low, but the side walls very high and tight to where you could hear the wood creak when snugging the rear action screw. The flat on the receiver didn't even touch wood, and the front trigger screw bushing (attached to trigger guard) made contact with the recoil lug area to the point that the recoil lug didn't event touch wood. This required moving the whole action back quit a bit. The forearms were also very fat to where the lower band would not slide down at all unless the swivel screw was taken out...stock was way too fat to get the screw back in. Needless to say, it was a lot of work to get right.
The Minelli stock fit in the action nearly perfect - could call it drop in. All I needed to do to satisfy my OCD was add a touch more clearance behind the tang. The outside, however, was even fatter than the Boyds stocks...but I'd rather work on profiling the outside, and finishing it however I want, then screw around with poor inletting for hours and hours on end any day.
Just my 2 cents if your plans are to put it back to it's military configuration. I hunt with my 1903a4 Gibbs reproduction. I like carrying my 1903's in the woods way more than anything else.

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Here are some quick pictures (definitely not a photographer by trade). Dad did a nice job refinishing the original stock, but it just doesn't fit. For him, it was a deer-killing machine. He bought it surplus after his Army discharge at the end of Korea.

LOP is 12 3/4" and I need a minimum of 14". You can see how a cheek weld leaves your eyes 1-2" below the scope sight line.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gentwocoog

that I would float the barrel in the new stock.

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Also, if you do go with a full length stock, almost all 1903's like upward pressure in the last inch of the forend "barrel bed" area, and no other contact.

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your pictures show the barrel has been cut down. there should be a slot cut parallel to the bore on top, in front of the date stamp, for the front sight key.

SS - Thanks for your insights re: Boyds and Minelli (I wasn't aware of them and will investigate). It wasn't obvious to me that the barrel had been cut down. Whoever did it did a good job as it isn't noticeable.

Due to the drop in comb (that's a shotgun term, but I think it translates to rifles. I primarily shoot shotguns and pistols) and wrist arthritis issues, I'm going to go with a pistol grip, combed, aftermarket stock.

Do you know if the stock reinforcing bolts (you can see these in my pictures) are needed for an aftermarket stock?

Finally, I've sold off all my father and father-in-law's centerfire rifles except for Dad's 1903a3 and my FIL's 1903a3 (also sporterized, but by a professional). I've shot a lot of deer rifles over the years including some pretty nice ones (FIL had a Weatherby Mark V), but nothing compares to the American Mauser. Those two won't be for sale and will be passed down. Glad you hunt with yours - they're meant to be used.

I don't think the original 1903 design had stock re-enforcing bolts - they were quickly added after initial testing. You'll find plenty of sporter stocks without them. Another option is to go with a old fashioned leather cheek pad to increase the comb height. Repro's of these are readily available.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gentwocoog

It wasn't obvious to me that the barrel had been cut down. Whoever did it did a good job as it isn't noticeable.

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But see, you can't fit that barrel with iron sights now. The rear sight goes on the dovetail but if you restock with military wood the best you could do is a faux '03A4 type. Also you need a safety as there's a civilian alteration installed.

The primary interest of the guys on this forum is to restore these rifles to their original configuration. If I understand your desire correctly, you are interested in using your Dad's A3 as a hunting rifle. I am one of the "old timers" like your Dad, who bought the A3's to convert to hunting rifles. Friends and I did several of them in the 1960's. In those days, Fajen and Bishop made semi finished sporter stocks. Mostly we used those since they were reasonably priced and saved us a lot of work. Both of those outfits were bought up by Midway USA and, I believe they are now shut down. In answer to your original question; no, you don't need the cross bolts--you won't be using the rifle for a club or a bayonet handle any more.

I would suggest you look at Richards Microfit and see if they could fit your needs. I don't know if Boyds makes sporter stocks or not; you might check.

Your Dad has given you a good start; your Timney trigger already has the safety. He replaced the stamped trigger guard with a milled one from an 03. The bolt handle has been forged for scope clearance.

I recommend you read up on everything you can find on glass bedding and stock fitting and finishing. You have a fun project on your hands in addition to a labor of love.

Incidently, not that it matters but one of my books indicates your rifle was produced in December of 1943. It was probably rebarreled in one of the government rebuilding facilities.

I hope this helps.