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Okay, this may seem stupid but I’ve never used the “FAL” mags in my Bren MkII.
I primarily shoot .308 in my factory original ‘42 Daimler-Monotype MkII using the SA Denel 7.62mm barrel fed from ZB39 mags. Don’t use the L4 parts, much less the FAL-style mags, don’t have to.
So my question is- when in proper L4 getup, shooting the FAL-style mags does the magazine lock the bolt open when empty as normal??
-TomH
Well I'm not an expert, but from what I was told when I asked a similar question: it depends which L4 version you have.
The L4A1 which used "metric" FAL interface magazines was equipped with a bolt stop hold open - this is the ejector block which the South African's based their 7.62 ejector block design upon.
An L4A2 which utilized "Inch" FAL magazine interface utilized a new ejector block with NO provision for bolt stop or hold open.
If you’re using an original Mk2 in .303, you won’t get a metric FAL mag to fit, the body needs some serious modifications for it to fit. Just stick to the ZB39 mags.
Okay.....I should’ve been more explanatory.
Both of you bring up good points.
I’m not interested in actually using the FAL style mags , as I said I have perfectly functional .308 set-up using just the SA 7.62BBL, 7.62 extractor, and ZB39 mags. Still using original .303 bolt and ejector parts. The gun set up this way runs flawlessly, 100% of the time shooting .308 with perfect cartridge feeding, extraction and ejection.
What I am curious about relates to the L4 conversion in that I am curious if they made provision to hold the bolt back on an empty FAL-style magazine, or just let the bolt close home on an empty chamber......and what effects of hammering the bolt face on barrel end might be a result??
There is only one issue using ZB39 mags the way I do- due to the slightly larger cartridge rim diameter of the original 8x56R cartridge compared to the 7.62x51/.308, you will sometimes get s situation where the last cartridge fails to get picked up by the bolt horns and instead it locks back as it is supposed to do. The solution is obvious, lower the top of magazine follower “ears” to a point below where the .308 rims are.
I am curious because there is a good chance that I’m doing that the bolt will then not be able to be caught and locked back by the now-lowered “ears”, allowing the bolt to slam home into the barrel chamber face.
It’s a very close measurement- lowered to clear the cartridge rim for feeding is super close to being lower enough to miss locking g the bolt back......
Does that clear up my question??
-TomH
(I need things to worry about and think on to keep me busy during this virus mess......)
It is my understanding that the bolt stops (hardened block on each side wall of the receiver) prevent the bolt face from contacting the barrel face. Try removing the barrel and seeing if the bolt's forward movement is stopped by these protrusions on the inner wall of the receiver.
It should be like WallyG has said however if the gun is a reweld or with a combination of different calibre parts then who knows. You could try a thin layer of putty on the barrel breech face and controlling the breech block into battery and then checking for marks. If none you could then try Again by releasing the block under full spring pressure and again looking for marks.