the actual answers to your questions are complex, but...if you're building a fake/repro, why reproduce the markings exactly "correctly" ?
there are plenty of photos on this site, (and even in this thread) already.
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The Long Branch sniper rifles do not have the “TR” and “S” markings.
May I respectfully point out that faking the markings is forgery., even if you tell everyone it is a clone. A future owner might well not be so scrupulous. Making a clone of a No.4 (T) is fine, just do not add any fake markings.
The idea of converting a rifle that has already been “violated” by conversion to a sporter is a good one. There are lots around where the barrels have not been cut and no extra holes drilled etc. Messing up a full-military and correct one is the sort of thing that “Bubba” would do. The full No.4 military rifles, once dirt cheap, are now scarce and getting expensive. Original Long Branch No.4 Mk.I* rifles are especially desirable today.
There are even genuine No.4 (T) rifles that have been sporterized, had pads removed etc. and would make interesting restoration projects.
surely you’re not planning to counterfeit inspection marks? Generally creation of an honest made up T is limited to the functional items, e.g. sling point, pads, cheek rest, ect. Adding accurate fake inspection marks is straying rather close to forgery. I have had a couple of rifles made up as clones of sniper rifles, but would always leave the markings honestly there to show what it is, a functionally accurate copy, the only stamps I have added are marking the stems to the rifles for practical reasons.
I take it on board and will not add any makings.
Interesting the Long Branch examples were not marked TR, how did the the Canadian selection process differ from British rifles?
Thanks for the info...
The pads were fitted yesterdays, the front pad was a breeze.
The rear pad wasn't the action was really hard towards the inside, im guessing the case hardening by the bolt lug pocket was the issue.
All my drills were brand new cobalt type. I was able to thread all holes through except the 1/4 BSF, could only tap 3/4 of the way through before the tap stopped dead solid.
The screw in the mount does fully screw home tho so this isnt an issue.
Phew, glad thats done
How was the final columniation?
Collimating wasn't an issue...
For anybody who is interested, here are pictures of the mounts fitted. Very happy with the results, haven't got around to staking the rear pad screws yet. But as you can see its all nice and aligned and tight fitting to the action
Attachment 102948Attachment 102947Attachment 102949Attachment 102950