Stocking up P14

G'day there, I have a rifle I am restoring at the moment which had a lot of cracks in the fore-end (Tang crack, behind the mag, etc), but I have repaired all of that as good as I can.

One which I am curious about is that the wooden block that is acted on by the recoil block on the action was totally sheared out of the stock. I cut-out and refit it as best I could but I am now wondering how it is meant to bear on the action block so that this cannot happen again. Is it meant to be quite tight, like the draws of a Lee-Enfield? If so I can just carve out the front of it, fit a hardwood block, and then fit the action. Just don't want to dive in and make an idiot of myself.

Also, how are the action screws and there collars meant to bear with the action? Such that the collars are bottoming out at the same time the action and stock bottom out like the main screw on an SMLE/No4/etc?

Is the barrel meant to be bedded with the stock as well? Just things that I know about Lee-Enfields but know basically nothing with this rifle. Damn mauser looking thing.

Anyway, I appreciate any help to get the stock fitted the right way. I also have pictures of the whole mess if people want to see it. Cheers.

Quite a bit of work required to get this stock ready for shooting! Some thoughts below:

-The receiver recoil lug should be against the face of the recoil block in the stock when the trigger guard screws and stock bushings are installed and just snugged.
-The stock bushings are installed such that there is a small amount of wood compression when the front and rear trigger guard screws are snugged up (similar to a No4 rifle front trigger guard bushing setup).
-When the front and rear screws are tightened up (but not gorilla tight) there should be >2lbs required to lift the barrel off the forend barrel bed (barrel is pressure bedded at muzzle end). The actual weight can vary a bit but the range of 2-7lbs (similar to a No 4 rifle) usually works ok to start off. When tightening the screws do the front one first then the rear tang screw.
-The rear tang screw can be adjusted a bit to help set the barrel pressure (tighter normally equals less pressure. If there is no barrel pressure and the stock is heavily compressed under the tang a shim may be required under the tang to tip the action slightly down in the stock to reestablish barrel pressure at the stock tip. Of course other bedding areas may affect (for example the height of the replacement recoil block just installed) this so check the usual suspects prior to inserting tang shims.

There's lots of info on the forum about stocking up this type of action (1917, 1903, Mauser 98s, etc.)

Thanks mate, that is pretty much all the answers I was after. Cheers.

Remember that once you've got her back together but without hanguards on check for:
-With both action screws lightly snugged seat the action in the wood by using a soft mallet to tap the muzzle rearward (or tap butt on floor a few times)
-Tighten the action screws (front first then tang) until snug.
-Look for barrel centered in stock channel.
-Barrel bearing at the reinforce and tip (weight 2-7lbs) and free elsewhere (just like a standard No4). 20 thou or a bit more clearance will be ok to start (check with folded paper along the barrel length).
-Rear tang is completely clear of the surrounding wood. Check full depth with narrow feeler gauge (20 thou minimum) all around the tang edge. It must be clear or ithe tang can split the wood under recoil and spoil your repair work.
-Check hand guards for internal clearance from the barrel.
-Reassemble completely with bands, etc. & head to the range👍
After say 5 rounds re-check barrel weight at forend tip & centering as everything will settle more under recoil. Barrel alignment & weight should be the same as before shooting. Re-check the action screws for tightness. If all ok reload and start smacking targets🙂

Well I've finally got the new recoil block halfway to sorted but I have hit issues and possibly made mistakes here.

The photos do not really show what I am trying to show but essentially the recoil block on the action and the block of the stock fit together quite tight, HOWEVER the screws from underneath no longer line up with their respective threaded holes in the action.Attachment 110998Attachment 110999Attachment 111000

The barrel seems to still be in the centre of the inletting in the stock but these holes are both offset, or angled, to one side. The only way I can see this happening is that the action cants over on an angle to one side as a result of something in my repair being taller than the other side, or the action catching on something and not botttoming out on one side.

I've tried using chalk and oil on the action and assembling to find what is touching and what is not but that just confuses things even more because it seems to contradict what is actually happening.

I have tried gently filing away areas that seem suspect in holding things up but I dont want to go any further in case I go too far in the wrong place and then need to build it up again.

The way the trigger looks canted to me, it would have to be something on the left side of the action causing the issue. One thing I do sometimes is put the action in and then gently tap it a few times with a rubber mallet. Any wood that is touching the action will have a bit of a shine to it and is easily noticeable..

My thoughts exactly but I cannot find precisely where it is touching because it is a finnicky spot anyway. Ive really hit it with a mallet to try and budge it or swage the wood at least a little so i can pinpoint the problem but with no luck.

Guess I'll just have to poke and prod until I find it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nijalninja

My thoughts exactly but I cannot find precisely where it is touching because it is a finnicky spot anyway. Ive really hit it with a mallet to try and budge it or swage the wood at least a little so i can pinpoint the problem but with no luck.

Guess I'll just have to poke and prod until I find it.

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Nijalninja,

Get a wooden stick or dowel and pulverize the end of it. Soak it in kerosene for a minute or more until it acts as a wick and then light it on fire.
You can then use the soot to blacken your parts and then get a good transfer of fit to the wood.

A light spray or wipe of some sort of oil to metal will allow the smudge to attach to the parts for in- letting black substitute.

Ah ok, Ive been wondering whether a sort of alcohol lamp soot covering might work, but dont have one.

Didnt know you could substitute like that or I would have done it already, thank you very very much Doco.

Holding the metal a correct distance from a candle will soot it enough to serve the same purpose. Usually within an inch from the flame will suffice. My 1917 stock had to be relieved under the safety to get it to sit flush.