HK G3 Bayonet Disasembly

Not often I come on here asking for advice? :lol:

However, before I drop to drastic measures. Has any of our erstwhile members dismantled a GERMAN made G3 Bayonet?

I have one with a fractured cross guard, & the grip needs to be removed to replace it.
I have a new guard, but believe it of not. The Grip will NOT budge!

I have removed the retention catch, spring & roll pin. In THEORY, the grip should drive off of the Tang?......It will NOT Budge!

It does not look like the metal flash guard is removable. Until the grip is also removed? Thinking that there MAY be some sort of fixing method under this guard. But I dont think so?

Looking at later production Eichorn G3 Bayonets. They have drilled Two transverse holes through the gip & tang to retain the plastic grip. This would SUGGEST, that the plastic grip was simply driven on & retained with the retention catch roll pin?

My thoughts being, if they felt it nessacary to Mod the bayonet with the later addition of TWO roll pins. Then again in THEORY, if the grip was simply driven on. If SOME became loose in service usage. Hence he two roll pin Mod?

I have left it soaking in WD 40 for now. In the hope this may loosen the grip?

So.....Anyone had to remove a German G3 Bayonet grip?....:ugh:

Well, I finally managed to complete disassembly of this Bayonet.

What a palaver!....:ugh: I managed to source a replacement cross guard, direct from Eichorn.

Upon total disassembly I discovered the following:

This GERMAN Early manufactured variant had. The attachment catch holding stud in the end of the pommel. simply tightly pressed into a blind hole! The catch is held in this stud with a roll pin.

The grip is also simply TIGHTLY pressed onto the tang. With NO physical method of retention to the Tang!

The cross guard is held in place with a very small tack weld on either side of the blade.

The flash guard is pushed into the plastic grip from the front and that's it.

So the new cross guard needs welding in place. The flash guard got a little mangled driving the grip off! This should be reformed to shape on varying shapes of scrap bar/ sheet scrap metal.

The grip then will be driven on, and that Folks. Is simply all that will need doing!

It is VERY easy to see now, how other nations manufactured their own versions of the G3.
With thought gone into potential stripping for refurbishment & spares replacement also.
And interestingly, how Eichorn themselves, modified this type of bayonet later on.
To ensure disassembly was easier & more efficient!...:cheers:

How about showing us allk of this in a few photos Mike?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tankhunter

The grip then will be driven on

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They of course would have had a purpose built press for this action...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

How about showing us allk of this in a few photos Mike?

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Yes of Course Pete, Bear with Me! ;)

Oh & BAR. I didn't enquire, but I'm Certain that would be the case. After all, when your banging out many thousands of these. On repeated process's.
Then a purpose built jig & press would be a must! ;)

https://www.milsurps.com/Attachment 92717Attachment 92714Attachment 92711Attachment 92715Attachment 92712Attachment 92716Attachment 92713

As can be seen, the grip is partially reassembled. I have refitted the catch, spring & axis roll pin.

When I first started this, it APPEARED that the tang ended as the round section at the Top of the grip. Was a machined part of the Tang, that I THOUGHT ran completely through the complete grip. As you might expect a Blade to do?........Oh No!....This round attachment 'Peg' was also, simply tightly pressed into the end of the grip!
So, Thinks I! I will support the grip. & drive the end of the 'Tang/ Blade complete'. Directly out with a nylon face mallet!.........No,No,NO!!!! This succeeded in driving the attachment 'Peg' ONLY, in & flush with the end of the plastic grip!! Bugger! Say's I to Myself!! (Polite Word, inserted for what I REALY SAID! )

So......Support blade in vice, & drive grip off with suitable brass punch. Yes it came off after mangling the flash guard slightly. But was unavoidable. You can see from the pic's it is only slightly distorted. & reform able!

So, What to do with the flush now Attachment peg?....So I found a flat & narrow piece of scrap flat bar. Inserted it through the open bottom opening where the tang went. & drove the attachment stud, back OUT to it's original position. It is tight enough to be fine! You can see, I have already refitted the catch, spring & axis roll pin in the grip.

The pics show the blade with spot weld marks, where the remains of the original cross guard were tacked. It will be very easy to fix the new crossguard the same way to the tang.

Various shots of the guard show the cut outs for the scabbard external retention spring holding position.
& the concave periphery of the muzzle ring, ensuring easy slide on attachment to the Flash Hider.

Other Nations as I have stated previously. Made their G3 Bayo's much easier to disassemble. As Did Eichorn later. By simply drilling 2 x holes through the grip & tang once assembled. & inserting 2 x steel roll pins!

Other nations chose to manufacture as I guessed this one was (But it wasn't!) with the tang going straight through. & the whole steel Pommel & catch assembly, held in place with a Solid steel retaining/ cross pin.
Remove cross pin, remove pommel, Grip comes right off! Simples!......

Some variants do not have a separate pommel, & the whole grip assembly is held on. By the retaining/ attachment catch axis pin. (As I THOUGHT this one was!)

So If any of you guys are unfortunate enough to have to disassemble One of these Early German G3 Bayo's. I have done the hard work & suffered the consequences! Now you can learn from my initial 'Investigation's!

Would I do it all again?...Not if I can F*$"%£& Well Help it!......:surrender: