Butches Bore Shine and Tipton Brass Brush

I was home 'sick' today so I thought that I would clean one of my Yugo M48A's that I took to the range last week. I figured it was time to clean the copper out but was out of 7.62. I popped down to the closest gun shop and the only thing they really had for copper removal was this stuff called Butches Bore Shine. I haven't used this stuff before and in reading the directions it said to. The instructions said that scrubbing the barrel was no necessary. I can tell you straight off this turned out to be a load.

I followed the instructions and the results weren't all that great so I ran an IOSSO Nyflex 8MM brush down the chamber 12 times and when I ran another patch down all kinds of crud came out. After pushing out patches until I had a good amount of white. I ran another wet patch down and within three dry patches, I was getting clean patches.

Just out of curiosity, I ran wet patch of Hoppe's Elite (a product which I never thought much of) and holy mackerel the carbon poured out. The wet patch came out dark, the first dry was the same. It was five patches before I clean white.

Guess I wont be using that Butches Bore Shine anymore. Oh, it comes in a bottle but the bottle is inside a plastic container. I found out why as soon as I opened the plastic container - It smells like all hell, not something you want to use in the house or even a workshop that you can't open window.

A bit ago I asked my wife to order me a new set of JAG's over time my collection has gotten somewhat limited, and when I broke my 8MM jag I figured it was time. I asked her to order me a set of Tipton Jags and she ended up ordering a Jag and Brass Brush set.

I didn't really need that brass brushes because I switched over to IOSSO Nyflex fiber Bore Brush about two years ago because of the copper removal solvents I was using. When I took a look at the set I noticed that the tip of the Tipton brushes was simply cut off. I'm used to bronze brushes that have the folded over wire tips as Sinclar and Hoppes uses.

While I don't think ti make too much of a difference I gotta wonder about it. It might not hurt the bore any but accidentally knowing the tip into something else, like maybe the stock, might cause damage. It was just and observation.

Attachment 101863

I'll never have to worry about bore brushes like those. I have so many .30, .35, .45 and 5.56 brushes I'll never buy one. All Parker Hale or GI so you know what they look like...got a whack of .30 cal US issue brushes too.

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Originally Posted by Steve762

-- Not a good idea to mix bore solvents. One combination a US Army Service Rifle Team member told me about can etch a stainless steel barrel in 15 minutes.

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You are 100% right and this is VERY true. Sweets 7.62 and Hoppes #9 react in this manner and can emit toxic fumes. As I said, out of curiosity I ran a wet patch of Hoppe's Elite. This was after the bore was patched and dry. Even then I normally don't need to use two different solvents, there should be no reason to if the solvent does what it's supposed to. Because of the results, I was getting with the Butches Bore Shine I want to see if it really got everything. The fact that I could use a mild biodegradable bore cleaner and get that much carbon after a thorough cleaning with Butches Bore Shine showed me that it's not what it's advertised to do and doesn't do as good as job as Sweets 7.62 for copper and carbon.

I've never used Boretech products. 90% of the time and when I'm not concerned about copper fouling, I use only Hoppes #9 and Breakfree CLP. Most of the time I use copper cleaners is on my MILSURPS stuff, most of my other firearms this in not a problem because they are hunting rifles.

+1 for Boretech Eliminator . Used it to clean a Barrett M82A1 after 150 rds of spotter / tracer . It does eat up brass brushes and jags and the patches are always green from these . I used nylon brushes and 45 cal bore -tips with a heavy patch . The threads of the bore-tip ate away from the solvent , but I can waste one per cleaning session . Cleaned very fast and easy by letting it soak for 5 min or so between swabs . It was a few days after cleaning when I noticed the bore-tip coming apart . It might not have happened if I had flushed it out with brake cleaner right after the session .
Chris

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Originally Posted by Steve762

usabaker.
-- Not a god idea to mix bore solvents. One combination a US Army Service Rifle Team member told me about can etch a stainless steel barrel in 15 minutes. Not going to say what brands since it is not meant as a dig at two good products if used alone.
-- Best to let solvents like Sweets, Butches and BoreTech sit and let the chemical reaction work.
-- Serious benchrest shooters in my area use Boretech carbon remover then Boretech copper remover. Casual shooters like Boretech Eliminator since is attacks both carbon and copper. Caution: Boretech can strip an oil finish off a military stock or dull a glossy finish. Boretech does not have all the chemical warnings that Butches has.
-- Just my 2 cents. Steve

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Yes indeed - mixing solvents cost me a barrel on my match grade M-1. :banghead: