Instructions for Wire, Non Electrical Brass, Screwed No2 Standard

Yep.... brass threadwire used for fixing cracks in butts!

The book calls for the crack to be clamped shut and a hole drilled using a No 49 (0.073inch) drill. The threadwire is then gripped in the chuck of a hand drill and screwed into the drilled hole, care being taken that the crack does not open during this operation.
Remove the protruding ends of the wire and file smooth.

A number 49 drill is equal to 1.85mm or 0.0728inch.... If you do not have acess to number drills, I would think that a 2mm hole, being only a bit more than .005" bigger, would do the job. Perhaps anyone wanting to be sure should try a 2mm drill in a scrap bit of wood. The best way to drill the hole precisely is to pre drill undersize and finish with the 2mm

Thanks for the info and No. drills are available at any tool supply house for around $1.00 each.
PS: will this material also fix the "plumbers crack in the butt" :-)##

Thanks Son. I was wondering why no-one had asked this question!. Should glue be included somewhere in the equation?.

.....& is the wire available? I could certainly do with some!

ATB

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Payne

.....& is the wire available? I could certainly do with some!

ATB

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Is this any help

To the boys down under: threaded brass stock repair rod....

The wire was also used on L1A1 butt repairs as well.

The procedure also calls for the No. 49 drill bit.

The wire is specified as "Wire, commercial brass, screwed No.2 standard"

Interestingly, for "minor" split on the L1A1 butts, no glue is mentioned..

However, for splits up to 3" long and when "slip-patching, glue was to be used

The glue in question was "Adhesive, glue marine - Nightingale 'Group 68', for what it's worth.

As I have found, many old stocks are utterly saturated in oil of various descriptions and thus the repair surfaces MUST be de-oiled before attempting any glue jobs.

One of the more interesting methods is to slightly pry open the crack and use carburetor cleaner in a pressure-pack can fitted with an extension nozzle. This stuff dissolves all sorts of things, including the natural oils in your skin so be careful. Once the area is thoroughly dry, go to it with your favourite high-strength epoxy adhesive. DO NOT use "super / crazy" glue as it will fail in short order, especially in warm humid climates.

If you don't have or don't want to use the threaded rod, try this: cut motor or bicyclr inner tubes into long strips about 1/2 inch wide. Start wrapping the rubber strip an inch or so before the origin of the split. Stretch and wrap the rubber strip at the same time as working towards the "open" end of the split. It is amazing how much compression you can get with this stuff. You don't have to worry about denting the timber with clamps, but you will have to do some fine clean-up work when the glue is set in a day or so. Epoxies will cheerfully bond rubber to wood so a bit of fine shaving ans sanding may be in order to tidy up the job.

If the split is relatively new and has not acquired fuzzy edges of lost fine splinters, the repair can come out as almost invisible.

This technique is also handy for repairing old household furniture.