SVT-40 stock crack/bubba questions?

Hey guys, I just bought this '41 izzy on Gunbroker, finn capture, mis-matched.

I have two issues both related to the stock and I was hoping I could get some opinions while I'm still in the "inspection period".

First, there is a crack in the tang. It's very much a hairline. I want to shoot the rifle, do you think this crack will grow? Should it be repaired first, or should I leave it?
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zps3itk-1.jpg

The second question is the more loaded one. Upon casual examination it looks really nice. Once you get some harsh lighting on it you can see that there's what seems to be filler in numerous areas (mostly around the left wrist of the stock). The repair is hard to notice under normal light, it is very smoothly done (to the touch) and it appears to be a old repair. The strange thing is that whoever repaired it didn't seem to try hard to cover it up, they made it very smooth but did not sand the stock as a whole, indicated by the serial number, the star, and the "K" stamp in the wood all remaining.

Do you think this is bubba or the finns?
Here's the auction link
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/734302960

Looks good under normal light
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zpss8ut-1.jpg

But then upon close exam..

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zps3bb8-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zpslrhk-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zpsxslk-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zpsjrwi-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zpseqfx-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._zps0nnn-1.jpg

Yes, You're going to want to fix the wrist split and if applicable correct what caused it.
I don't know what you have going on there. Sort of looks like glue with sawdust mixture in one pic, then it looks like it's the varnish flaking off. I don't know, just can't tell from here.
Doesn't look good that's for sure.

It looks like it might have something to do with the crack from the rear of the action, like its an old crack repair that's starting to open back up.

It is very hard to tell from here, but those oddly shaped patches of filler make me think it might have been rot, as any splits or breaks would have a form determined by the structure of the wood, cut of the grin etc. The very shapelessness of the patches is what worries me. And it it all on one side.

I have a rifle with a stock like that. It had been left lying on its left side for a century or so, probably on straw that had absorbed moisture and encouraged rot. The right side had no rot - just woodworm, so it was apparently the upper side, exposed the the air (and the woodworms).

But there is still enough "hard core" in the wood that the whole assembly is stable, and it shoots well.

Splits just behind the tang are common, and indicate incorrect bedding of the action. To some extent they may result from shrinkage of the wood. There should be a clear gap between the tang itself and the edges of the cut-out in the butt. The recoil thrust should be taken by the tang screw/action screws and/or cross-bolt (if there is one), not by the point of the tang acting as a blunt wedge in the cut-out! Check and adjust as required. That hairline crack is too thin to be filled, as no glue will penetrate effectively, apart from cyan acrylate "super-glue", and I am doubtful as to whether that provides a usefull increase in strength.

The crack in the wrist was a major issue with the SVT in service. Eventually much thicker stocks became standard which seems to have solved the problem. Early thin stocks reused in refurbishment commonly have bolts (as shown) put through the wrist. I have a former sniper rifle that has two bolts. These seem to solve the problem and I've shot this one a lot with no issues. I've noticed that similar fasteners are available in the hardware and it wouldn't be difficult to make a "correct" repair. That's what I'd do if I had one I liked and wanted to shoot (and that wasn't highly original and valuable). Gluing probably won't solve the issue. The problem is not related to specifics of bedding in a particular rifle. There is no tang in these guns- a large flat at the rear of the receiver is driven back onto a mating area in the stock. The small cross pin that holds the front of the receiver in the stock doesn't appear to be functional in taking up recoil.

Ridolpho