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The saga continues:

“Instructions for Armourers, 1931” (Brit issue, War Office 30th September 1931), Part II,SMALL ARMS, Chapter 1, RIFLES, Section1- Stripping and Re-assembling, Section 14 (iii),...

Ideally, you do NOT need to wallop the screw very hard to "stake" it, however.....Murphy was an optimist.

Drilling out the screw ends may be a peculiarly Australian thing, (something about bigger...

Yep, Cinders; that is why I haunt places like this and quite few other; swapping information, scrounging electronic copies of user and service manuals for reference, paying back when I can, making...

OK. did a bit of ferreting:

The thread on No1 screws for front, rear and piling swivels is:

0.1875" x 33TPI, "Enfield" form.

On the No4 series, post "Trials", this changed to 2BA and stayed...

For those in the anorak seats, I found the included angle of the thread on a No1 Bolt head:
79 degrees, 30 Minutes. It is depicted as a triangular thread with notes and tolerances for the form of...

If you look at the screws that go through the sling swivels, you SHOULD see that the threaded end has a small hole drilled in the end.. As per the original spec, during assembly, this screw is to be...

The overall length of the bolt head determines striker protrusion. The "collar" on the striker is meant to strike the rear of the bolt head when dry -fired. This prevents the striker wedging into the...

And the wryly amusing part about the "fitting" of a No1 fore-end to the original "bedding"spec, is just an academic exercise these days.

All that fiddling about inside the fore-end was to tune the...

RobO

I suspect that the demand for "original-configuration" rifles is driving a sizeable "de-sporterizing" movement. That there are at least three makers of No1 barrels on the planet is an...