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I somehow missed this thread, so here goes:

0C1064 1941 Savage No. 4 Mk 1 (T)
Circle T, several Enfield proofs and a large P on right rear of body next to bolt channel
Marked TR and FTR on left...

If the sight on it wasn't serialed, I might consider a swap, as it does retain the asymmetrical sight protector, but not to a numbers-matching configuration. I was more interested in understanding...

I recently purchased this 1915 Enfield Mk. III complete with magazine cutoff and volley sights and brass stock disc. WW1 rifles aren't my primary interest area, but this one stood out for it's...

This must be the case. There is no sign of anything under the surface, even magnified under bright light. Whatever engraving was there must have been significantly shallower even than the import mark.

Recently picked up this clean Fazakerly No. 4 Mk 2 at a cheap price. It came with the S&K mount, no scope, but appears otherwise unmolested and is a good shooter. There is no marking or serial number...

This conversation is straying somewhat far afield from the issues with this particular rifle. If the bolt had been refitted and renumbered in service, it would be a non-issue, to me at least, but in...

Assume you decided to return it? It just re-sold:

Lee Enfield No 4 T, trial rifle (sniper conversion - Bolt Action Rifles at GunBroker.com : 794943131

Yes, that was my point. He will have spent twice what it's worth to restore it.

Some idiot probably bought it restore a sporterized rifle that he now has double its value invested into.

I agree on the bolt mismatch being a serious hit to value and desirability, as well as it likely being a "T less scope" in the first place. But the accessories are of great interest to me for my...

I was able to make a closer inspection of this rifle today and get better photos. I think the rifle may be a late-war converted scopeless No. 4 (T) based on the lack of "T" mark on the receiver or a...

The possibility of it being a "scopeless" T just occurred to me as well. Need to get back over there any take more photos!

I didn't do an exhaustive examination, but from memory it was marked TR on the socket, M47C maker. Don't recall the year ('44 or '45). S mark on the right side of the action. Don't recall if it had...

The rest of the package is exceptional. No issues. That's what makes it so tough. It will never be worth truly top-dollar because of the bolt, but even as-is, I'm thinking around $3,500.

A local shop has a really nice No. 4 (T) that I'm interested in. Overall, it's a nice, complete sniper set up with a No. 32 Mk III scope & mount, canvas covered metal scope case (not the hinged...

Having recently acquired two sporterized No. 4s, I can share some insight into the process of restoring them. Most of the metal parts aren't too difficult to find. I managed to assemble two complete...

Here's the part you are looking for. Unfortunately I don't have a thread pitch gauge handy to measure it.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/2018/08/cg76S0r-1.jpg

Interesting that he says it's built on a No.4 Mk 1/3 action, not a 1/2. But there is no photo of the bolt side to verify. Weren't most sniper and 7.62 conversions built on Mk. 1 type actions?

Don't know about Europe, but I've seen several well-done No. 4 (T) clone with repro scopes and other parts sell for around USD$1000 here in the states.

I've been debating purchasing one of those metal kits myself, which are reported to be mostly reproduction parts. I have bought some of their spring and screw kits, which also contain some repro...

Use a small punch to drive out the pin at the top of slide on the righthand side. It may be hard to drive out. I needed to use a little heat to get mine out. Then you can unthread the screw and...

Another update as the restoration progresses. Through a couple of eBay purchases I acquired a replacement forestock (actually a Mk 2) and used hand guards along with a reproduction scope mount and...

Please don't hack up an unmodified no. 4 fore end for this! They are hard enough to find as it is.

You could silver solder it on too. Either way, a little heat on the flash hider will make it easier to press on.

Why on earth would you think I'd drill it? It's already got unmolested original scope mounts. :confused: