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Advisory Panel
I have a little 152 page book available called: "C.O.C. Training Centre, A.21 Lecture Precis No. 46/ Extracts from Instructions for Armourers, Revised Feb. 1943" that has a whole chapter titled "Browning Mixture and Process". It's basically a rust bluing process. This is a wonderful book that covers weapons, accessories, tools, and even bicycles. A bargain @ $20 plus post. Every swinging dick who wants to work on British and Commonwealth weapons from the WW1 and early WWII era ought to have one. I won't be printing anymore so get one now while you can.
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03-09-2016 10:48 AM
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Advisory Panel
I have a little 152 page book available called: "C.O.C. Training Centre, A.21 Lecture Precis No. 46/ Extracts from Instructions for Armourers, Revised Feb. 1943" that has a whole chapter titled "Browning Mixture and Process". It's basically a rust bluing process. This is a wonderful book that covers weapons, accessories, tools, and even bicycles. A bargain @ $20 plus post. Every swinging dick who wants to work on
British and Commonwealth weapons from the WW1 and early WWII era ought to have one. I won't be printing anymore so get one now while you can.
How does it compare to what's in Instructions for Armourers, 1931?
“There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”
Edward Bernays, 1928
Much changes, much remains the same.
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Advisory Panel
Hi Rob, I don't have copy of the 1931 Instructions for Armourers so I can't really answer the question. I'm thinking it's a bit of a condensed version as it clearly states on page 5,: (For issue to Armourer Trainees during a scarcity of the book. Not a replacement. Not to be quoted as an authority.) If you want to email me direct to bdlltd@bellsouth.net, I'll be happy to scan the table of contents. I've learned many weapons with this book at hand. My copy in the work shop is covered in greasy fingerprints. I met a gentleman in Kincardine, Ontario in order to borrow an original, (which was returned), for reprinting many years ago.
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Thank You to Brian Dick For This Useful Post:
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Legacy Member
Looks like a nice job, I'd leave it.
That process would be very handy in Australia I'd imagine but I'm not aware anyone is doing it here.
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Advisory Panel
I can scan the 1931 manual it if you want a copy of that part Brian? I think it's available as an ebook somewhere online too.
Hi Rob, I don't have copy of the 1931 Instructions for Armourers so I can't really answer the question. I'm thinking it's a bit of a condensed version as it clearly states on page 5,: (For issue to Armourer Trainees during a scarcity of the book. Not a replacement. Not to be quoted as an authority.) If you want to email me direct to
bdlltd@bellsouth.net, I'll be happy to scan the table of contents. I've learned many weapons with this book at hand. My copy in the work shop is covered in greasy fingerprints. I met a gentleman in Kincardine, Ontario in order to borrow an original, (which was returned), for reprinting many years ago.
“There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”
Edward Bernays, 1928
Much changes, much remains the same.
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Originally Posted by
Flying10uk
Does any-one know, please, how or where the dull/matt blueing often found on older military weaponry can be replicated today either at home or professionally. The modern high gloss/shiny blueing often seen today would in, my opinion, look totally wrong on an old weapon that should have matt blueing. Thanks
A highly polished surface will produce a shiny blue, if you were to bead/sand blast something before bluing the finish would be dull, also depends on what you use as the Browning solution, (this is what is applied to produce the rust) some with acid in them which will etch the prepped surface, if you ever want to do home Browning or bluing all you need is a salt solution, its that simple....... the item in question needs to be spotless clean , apply the solution and leave in a warm area or leave outside, once rusted ( this all depends on the solution and what you want to achieve etc, (the reason its called controlled rusting) boil in distilled water for 20-30 mins, you will have to repeat the process up to 5 times but a dark dull blue/black, can achieved using this.
For anyone interested I've a few small items from a Mauser Stock I'm bluing shortly........... I can go over the process in the restorers corner etc.
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Advisory Panel
Rob, I think everything is in the little CoC booklet.
Flying10uk: To save Geoff the trouble, just buy the little booklet that has the ingredients and process described step by step. There is much more information on working the SMLE included too.
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Rob, I think everything is in the little CoC booklet.
Flying10uk: To save Geoff the trouble, just buy the little booklet that has the ingredients and process described step by step. There is much more information on working the SMLE included too.
Brian, its no trouble, the parts are due to be done this week, (its for the Mauser stock set you sent) was going to Park the whole rifle and parts but thought I,d stick to the finish it would have at the time, picked up a 1941 CE K98 action which was used for a target rifle.
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