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Thread: Renaissance Wax and Parkerized Finishes?

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    Legacy Member mr.tickle's Avatar
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    Renaissance Wax and Parkerized Finishes?

    Good Evening everyone!

    Recently came across Renaissance Wax and everyone recommending it for the metal and stocks of their guns. I have been applying a thin layer of grease on metal surfaces in the barrel channel and below the wood line. However I am coming across more posts about oil rot, so I am looking for a replacement for my grease.

    I plan on using renaissance wax on blued guns but I write all this to ask is can I use it on parkerized finishes?
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    Last edited by mr.tickle; 09-15-2020 at 05:46 PM. Reason: spelling

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member Cetme24's Avatar
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    https://www.dropbox.com/s/7cfl49qsis..._5681.jpg?dl=0
    I use it on just about everything now. Hasn’t had any ill affect on any of my parkerized guns.
    Last edited by Cetme24; 09-16-2020 at 07:19 PM.

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    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Minwax finishing paste wax or an automotive wax will do the job.
    The Minwax cures to a hard surface. Let me add, my suggestion is only for the metal work under the wood line.
    Last edited by WarPig1976; 09-17-2020 at 07:08 AM.

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    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    I'm just wondering, when you take these rifles to the range, does the heat from firing the rifle cause any issues with the wax substances? Thanks!

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    Legacy Member bombdoc's Avatar
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    To give some history.. Renaissance Wax was developed in conjunction with the Britishicon Museum restoration department. It was designed to provide a protective surface but one that would under no circumstances react with or damage the material it coats.

    It is made from chemically neutral microcrystalline waxes with a solvent that evaporates to leave a non sticky coating that resists moisture, but that can be removed in the future. One of the aims of the wax was to produce a surface that would protect from the damaging effects of dust. Dust, if allowed to collect on a surface, acts as a wick, pulling moisture from the air and creating ideal conditions for rust and other damaging processes.

    Applying the wax to Parkerised and other phosphated surfaces is perfectly safe.

    Many greases are made from a mixture of oil and soap. In time, the soap structure will break down, releasing oils and breakdown products which can damage wood and in some cases be acid or alkali. The primary purpose of most greases is to reduce friction and displace water.

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    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singer B View Post
    does the heat from firing the rifle cause any issues with the wax substances
    Nah, they'll liquefy again but harden up again when cool if your going nuts at the range. It's a old duck hunters trick to keep your gun from rusting. Coat the action if you're playing in saltwater. Either one is removable very easily with a solvent from the metal and lumber. It's not going to hurt anything, I did it on my guns, better for the lumber then grease or oil. I only mention it because it's a cheap option for guys to consider.
    I'll add that I said only under the wood line because we're talking Milsurps and not Sporting arms.

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    Advisory Panel Surpmil's Avatar
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    I've used floor wax on many ferrous metal tools and objects as a rust inhibitor. As with paint, it's wise to heat the object enough to drive out all moisture first. Not only does that largely eliminate trapping moisture under the finish, but on a microscopic level it allows the finish to penetrate more deeply into the porosities of the surface.
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    Contributing Member Singer B's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info!

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    Contributing Member ssgross's Avatar
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    Some good info for back-of-the-safe pieces that never get used.
    NRA Family | 6 Tips to Prevent Gun Rust
    But for those that get used regularly, I found this test at Brownells particularly enlightening
    https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=12616
    The cheapest, most readily available products work the best, hands down, while the expensive high-end novelty brand names are the worst!

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