Wolff gunsprings

[EddieM]

Hello fellows,

Any experience or feedback with wolff springs?

Thank you in advance

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[jond41403]

I personally would not get the extra power springs, but I have heard some people say wolf springs work just fine in their carbines and I've heard others say that wolf springs make their carbines jamimatics.I have always stuck with usgi springs because they are relatively easy to find and not that expensive

[floydthecat]

The carbine is not buffered, as such. The operating spring serves as the buffer. I think it could depend on what you shoot. Marginal or weak ammo may not cycle using a stronger spring, which results in the jamming. A spring too weak allows the slide to bash the face of the receiver and you can see that damage. It has to be balanced and the designers figured all that out specifying a spring that worked with the ammunition designed for it.

The carbine will function across a fairly broad range of pressures. Ammo too strong will beat it up, too weak and it won’t cycle. A stronger spring slows down the action and positively strips a round and locks the bolt, but too strong and it won’t cock the hammer or allow the bolt to retract enough to pick-up the next round. If I intended to shoot known strong loads, I might opt for a “high-power” spring.

[browningautorifle]

I too would stick with GI springs as designed for the carbine. There's still lots available and guys here have them if in doubt about your source. I put a full set of Wolff springs in an AR15 for instance as I had a broken hammer spring and thought since the whole set came I'd just change them all. It changed the whole gun's dynamics and gave it a hard trigger, made the bolt hold open harder to operate, the takedown pins needed a tool to disengage them. It changed everything.

Stick to a new spring that was designed for the carbine. The issue spring.

[W5USMC]

Eddie, have to ask why are you wanting to change springs in the first place? Are you having a function issue? If not leave it alone, if it ain't broke don't fix it!

[floydthecat]

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”......a timeless piece of advice that never goes out of style.

[USGI]

"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is" - This happens way too often! - Bob

[Sunray]

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it” is Rule Number One.
Wolff's biggest advantage is that they don't treat Canadian like lepers. Order something and they send it. Mind you, I've never had any issue with my Plainfield a bath didn't fix. Never had to replace any spring.
A great deal will depend on which spring you think needs replacing. Springs do not lose temper from being compressed.

[EddieM]

I personally would not get the extra power springs, but I have heard some people say wolf springs work just fine in their carbines and I've heard others say that wolf springs make their carbines jamimatics.I have always stuck with usgi springs because they are relatively easy to find and not that expensive

Hello Jond.

Thank you for your feedback, do you know a website to find new USGI springs and parts, I had look at eBay but just found used.

Eddie

---------- Post added at 08:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:24 PM ----------

The carbine is not buffered, as such. The operating spring serves as the buffer. I think it could depend on what you shoot. Marginal or weak ammo may not cycle using a stronger spring, which results in the jamming. A spring too weak allows the slide to bash the face of the receiver and you can see that damage. It has to be balanced and the designers figured all that out specifying a spring that worked with the ammunition designed for it.

The carbine will function across a fairly broad range of pressures. Ammo too strong will beat it up, too weak and it won’t cycle. A stronger spring slows down the action and positively strips a round and locks the bolt, but too strong and it won’t cock the hammer or allow the bolt to retract enough to pick-up the next round. If I intended to shoot known strong loads, I might opt for a “high-power” spring.

Hello Flydthecat.

You´re right about the ammo, I only use regular ammo Aguila, Federal, Winchester, PMC, etc. What about you?

Eddie

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 PM ----------

I too would stick with GI springs as designed for the carbine. There's still lots available and guys here have them if in doubt about your source. I put a full set of Wolff springs in an AR15 for instance as I had a broken hammer spring and thought since the whole set came I'd just change them all. It changed the whole gun's dynamics and gave it a hard trigger, made the bolt hold open harder to operate, the takedown pins needed a tool to disengage them. It changed everything.

Stick to a new spring that was designed for the carbine. The issue spring.

Hello Jim,

Omg you´re so right about the M1 dynamic, those wolffs will change the original design, thank you

Eddie

[EddieM]

Eddie, have to ask why are you wanting to change springs in the first place? Are you having a function issue? If not leave it alone, if it ain't broke don't fix it!

Hello Wayne,

I have 2 M1 Inlands, both have different recoil spring length, the difference is about 2 inch, I don't know which is the right length, both shoot ok with commercial ammo, I just want to have two springs ready as back up.

Eddie

---------- Post added at 09:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 PM ----------

“If it ain’t broke don’t fix it”......a timeless piece of advice that never goes out of style.

You´re right.

Eddie

---------- Post added at 09:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 PM ----------

"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is" - This happens way too often! - Bob

Thank you Bob

Eddie