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  1. #1
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    1916 Spanish experts needed.

    Don't want to keep beating a dead horse, as I have already posted several threads on the SAMCO Mauser finds, but I took the 1st two I purchased for more shooting today, and noticed some differences.
    They both came from the first batch of 30 my dealer received. The first one I pulled off of the showroom floor. A 1925 model. It was filthy, but cleaned up nicely. No pitting. All matching #s except the bolt. Functions smoothly, good bore, and shoots straight. It has little to no bluing and no pitting. The crest and year are clearly stamped.
    The 2nd , 1924, was one someone had put back but never picked up. It has a much better stock, good bluing and again, no pitting and clearly stamped crest and year. Had a problem with firing, but that was corrected after a second bolt cleaning. Shoots good and straight every time.
    The third, the one I have on lay-away is from the second batch he received of 30. It is also filthy, but no pitting and a nice stock. He let me clean the bore and it was in good condition.
    We bore cleaned and put two more in the backroom that appear to be in good shape for my later purchase (no more procrastinating as I did on the cheap Mosin Nagants)
    Thing is, after examination, both '24 and '25 have the Lange Visier rear sight. The other 3 (2nd batch) have the Tangent sight.
    ALL have the left side receiver gas port, however, of the two I have, only the '24 has a matching port in the bolt? Don't know about the other 3.Going back to look tomorrow.
    Then, the '24 stock/ wood is "square" where the rear band meets while the '25 is beveled.
    Also...the '24 has a recoil lug, as in a '98. The '25 does not. Don't remember about the others.
    The '25 bolt is stamped C324, while the '24 is stamped 8811. Is this common?
    Thanks.
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    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    These 1916 rifles were built out of older rifles in many instances so mixed up everything is normal from what I've seen. When they adopted the 1916, they tended to go back and upgrade earlier rifles to the same or similar standard.

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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Aragorn243 View Post
    These 1916 rifles were built out of older rifles in many instances so mixed up everything is normal from what I've seen. When they adopted the 1916, they tended to go back and upgrade earlier rifles to the same or similar standard.
    Makes sense. Thanks!

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    Hi Rum

    Regarding the recoil lugs, I have seen pics of one forward lug, pics of one forward and one aft, and pics with no recoil lugs.

    In all my info collecting I have never found the what, where, when and why of the differences.

    Generally it seems that the later manufactured real Model 1916 had a forward recoil lug. Generally.

    And you know, I presume, the rear sight sleeve and the front sight band are soldered to the barrel. There is also a set screw under the blade on the front sight. Knock the blade out of the dovetail and you will find it. Sometimes the front sight band solder breaks loose. You just resolder. Or in my case, I added a scope, ditched the front sight, threaded the end and added a way cool looking flash hider. (Wince). But, hey, I wasn't doing a "mil-storation".

    Still have that mil stock for you, BTW. With all the metal.

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    Pics that might be helpful, or just interesing

    Front sight removal, threading and flash hider.






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    Quote Originally Posted by Group Therapy View Post
    Hi Rum

    Regarding the recoil lugs, I have seen pics of one forward lug, pics of one forward and one aft, and pics with no recoil lugs.

    In all my info collecting I have never found the what, where, when and why of the differences.

    Generally it seems that the later manufactured real Model 1916 had a forward recoil lug. Generally.

    And you know, I presume, the rear sight sleeve and the front sight band are soldered to the barrel. There is also a set screw under the blade on the front sight. Knock the blade out of the dovetail and you will find it. Sometimes the front sight band solder breaks loose. You just resolder. Or in my case, I added a scope, ditched the front sight, threaded the end and added a way cool looking flash hider. (Wince). But, hey, I wasn't doing a "mil-storation".

    Still have that mil stock for you, BTW. With all the metal.
    Thanks again. Mail sent.

  9. #7
    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    My 1916 has the original crest and date on it, 1914, so a bit early.

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