reloads for 7.35MM

[Tahunua001]

hello all,
this is not my usualy hangout, I normally stick to the jap, brit and american forums but there is a member on another site to which I am also a member having issues with his 7.35 loads, he's having an LGS load it up for him which may be a pretty big contributor but I figured I'd help him hunt for some recipes to get his groups inside a paper plate(yes they are that bad).

so what works well in your 7.35s? I'm guessing something in IMR4064 but then again I don't load for 7.35 so that's just a WAG on my part.

Information

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[vintage hunter]

Perhaps it would be simpler if the other fellow joined this site, sometimes relayed info can get a bit mixed up.

[Genoa Bob]

HI Tahunua,

I am a bit of a lurker but, I do reload for a 7.35 that purchased when I was 14. Try that today. My reloading started many years ago even when surplus ammo was still cheep. Currently my favorite load is 40 gr. of IMR 4895 in a modified 303 Brit case for stick powder and 36 gr. of H 335 for a ball powder. I have a 43ed edition of the Lyman book which lists 4064 at 36-40 gr. All of these are for the Hornady 128 gr. bullet.

Hope this helps.

Bob

[Tahunua001]

thanks for the data Genoa Bob, I'll be sure to relay it.

vintage hunter,
If any additional info is needed I'll see if I can get it and rather than play the telephone game I'll cut and paste from end to end to avoid any confusion.

[vintage hunter]

There are a lot of things that need to be known before anyone can attempt to diagnose the problem, that's why I said it would be simpler for the other guy to come here. A few things that might help are:
1. distance at which plate was being shot at
2. What components were used in making up the ammo, especially bullet diameter and type(lead or jacketed)
3.Condition of rifle
4. Type of sights( iron or optic)
5. Skill level of shooter
6. shooting style ( free hand, rested, ect.)
See what I mean......

[Tahunua001]

here's a description of his issue.

Shot my 7.35mm Carcano today over a sandbag with open sights at 100 yards. The first shot was about 5 inches above the bullseye. Of the next 7 shots, 3 hit about 5 inches left of the bullseye while 4 hit about 5 inches high and slightly left. The last 3 also hit high and slightly left. The 7 high and left shots are about a 6" group and the 3 left shots are a 3 inch group. If you count all the shots you have about a 12" group. Alright, you can stop laughing now. I'm certainly no marksman, but I don't think all the blames on me. These are reloads using 6.5 caliber Norma brass necked to 7.35 and 128 grain jacketed soft points that my LGS loaded. The rifle is a lot of fun to shoot and I am going to start reloading for it, but I would like to tighten the groups up. The rear sight is not adjustable, but I can tap the front sight over.

[vintage hunter]

In order to completely rule himself out as all or part of the problem he needs to get a real marksman to have a go at it. He may be surprised at the results.
It would also help to know which model (M38, Cavalry Carbine, ect.) we're dealing with here.

[Patrick Chadwick]

What's an LGS?

[jmoore]

What's an LGS?

"Local Gun Shop". Picked up on that term whilst internetting S&Ws. Otherwise, it would be a mystery to me as well.

As far as the 7,35 goes, there's way lots we don't know. Bullets the 128gr 0.300" diameter? Bore and crown condition? Screws tight?

Personally, I'd not use the Norma brass if at all possible unless they've fixed several problems. PRVI/Hornady brass is much better. But that ought not be the major drama here.

[Patrick Chadwick]

Thanks JM for the "decoding".

---------- Post added at 08:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 PM ----------

Personally, I'd not use the Norma brass if at all possible unless they've fixed several problems. PRVI/Hornady brass is much better.

I agree with that, based on experience with my Carcano.