Smith Corona Bolt Question

[GColloton]

Hi all! This is my first post. I inquired about this on Gunboards, but I’m trying to expand my results.

I just purchased a very nice 8/43 Smith Corona in the mistake 4870000 serial range (correct serials for that date range were 4780000 I believe).

Everything looks correct SC with very little use, with a rearsenal at Ogden ordnance depot (OG).

My question is in regards to the bolt. As I understand it, a “correct” Smith Corona bolt will be unmarked or marked with an “X”.
USGI replacement bolts during WWII were “CC” and “B&S”. So what bolt do I have? I can’t make out the markings.

There’s also some type of marking(?) on the end of the cocking knob. Looks like a faint pentagon.

I’m just curious what I’ve got:

-The illegible marking appears to be inside a square on the outside of the bolt arm (possibly an “85”’but that would be a strong maybe),

-it’s unmarked on the top where the “X”, “CC”, or “B&S” usually is,

-it’s also unmarked on the front side of the bolt arm.

-There is a punch mark or character on the underside of the bolt arm.

*The other curious thing is the faint Pentagon shape on the back of the cocking knob. It’s visible in photos previously posted, but not very visible just looking at the gun in person.

So hopefully someone has seen something similar.

Thanks again.

Information

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[GColloton]

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I hope this works. I’m not used to this format.

[John Beard]

The bolt body and cocking piece in your rifle are from a Remington M'03-A3 rifle. The bolt sleeve and safety lock are correct Smith-Corona parts. I will also mention that the magazine cutoff is a replacement from a Springfield Armory M1903 rifle.

You have a nice rifle.

J.B.

p.s.,

Mid and late-production Smith-Corona bolts are marked with an "X" atop the handle. The "X" is frequently mis-stamped and can look like a "V". A Smith-Corona bolt will also have a 1, 2, or 8 stamped underneath the handle. A Smith-Corona cocking piece is unmarked and has a distinct approximate 1/8" spacer in front of the knob.

[GColloton]

John, thank you very much. Is the marking on the bolt an 85 in a box?
In regards to keeping the rifle as a “collector”, does it increase the rifles value to correct those parts or leave as is? If I replace, am I looking for a blued or parkerized bolt body and cocking piece?

[John Beard]

Personally, I regard a 100% correct and original rifle as more desirable and valuable that one with mixed parts. The choice to upgrade is yours to make. The bolt body is blued. The cocking piece is parkerized.

J.B.

[ArtPahl]

Several years ago, a friend (now deceased) was looking for some GI ammunition for his M1 and found a deal involving 800 rounds of LC together with a Smith Corona A3. My friend didn't want the A3 but the seller wouldn't break up the set so my friend bought it anyway. It was a very nice A3 and shot very well. Like most of those rifles it had been through rebuilds and had parts replaced. My friend read an article published in the American Rifleman about the A3's and discovered that his had a Remington bolt and trigger guard assembly. So, like many on this forum, he wanted his rifle "right". He came to me for help. The guard was no problem; I found one right away, but the only SC bolt I could find was in a box of 4. I asked if he wanted to buy 4 and he said to go ahead. I took one out of the (sealed!) box, cleaned the grease off it, put it in his rifle, and checked the headspace OK. He was happy. My friend is long gone (2010) as is the rifle. I think the Remington guard went to some one on this forum. But I've still got the box with 3 bolts in the original wrapping. I should probably move them along since I can't imagine I'll ever have a use for them. I believe I've got a Bonny Forge and a Brown & Sharpe bolt around here someplace, too.

[browningautorifle]

But I've still got the box with 3 bolts in the original wrapping.

Bet if you advertise here in the WTS, you'll have none shortly.

[GColloton]

Several years ago, a friend (now deceased) was looking for some GI ammunition for his M1 and found a deal involving 800 rounds of LC together with a Smith Corona A3. My friend didn't want the A3 but the seller wouldn't break up the set so my friend bought it anyway. It was a very nice A3 and shot very well. Like most of those rifles it had been through rebuilds and had parts replaced. My friend read an article published in the American Rifleman about the A3's and discovered that his had a Remington bolt and trigger guard assembly. So, like many on this forum, he wanted his rifle "right". He came to me for help. The guard was no problem; I found one right away, but the only SC bolt I could find was in a box of 4. I asked if he wanted to buy 4 and he said to go ahead. I took one out of the (sealed!) box, cleaned the grease off it, put it in his rifle, and checked the headspace OK. He was happy. My friend is long gone (2010) as is the rifle. I think the Remington guard went to some one on this forum. But I've still got the box with 3 bolts in the original wrapping. I should probably move them along since I can't imagine I'll ever have a use for them. I believe I've got a Bonny Forge and a Brown & Sharpe bolt around here someplace, too.

PM sent. Thanks very much for your reply.

[Rockandroll]

I have a bolt with the ‘X’, also a 1 and several punch marks. My question is the bolt ever shiny without blueing or park as this one is? It has been through a rebuild but has most if not all original parts except bolt.

[GColloton]

I believe the “X” bolt should be blued originally, but necessarily shiny. I just received an NOS x marked bolt with deep bluing, but appears matte in finish.