2F or 3F?

[Johnny Peppers]

When I was shooting in our club shoots I used a concoction called "moosemilk", which to the best of my recollection was 2 ounces 409 Cleaner, 2 ounces water soluble oil, and 2 ounces of hydrogen peroxide in enough water to make a quart. I shot roundball and patch only, and wet the patch with the moosemilk. Each time the rifle was loaded the patch cleaned the bore. On our fun day shoots I have fired up to 40 rounds with no cleaning and no loss of accuracy using the moosemilk.

[MEHavey]

That 2-3:1 Crisco/beeswax lube (lots of it around dipped/hardened around the grooves) resulted in never overly-stiff ramming while in rapidfire/stakecutting, Matt. (Though the barrel getting & staying hotter`n a firecracker probably helped there too.)

[Dave]

Well this new powder replacement is suposed to go 10,000 shots w/o cleaning. (it is still corrosive) I know true BP guys turn noses up at these type substitutes but for hunting I want practical, without going to an inline gun. I think these defeat the purpose/spirt of the "muzzle loading" season.
Thanks again.

[MEHavey]

Why would taking 15 seconds to run a saliva-soaked wet patch up&down the barrel between rounds affect hunting? Once you're into the patched-ball game, you ain't doing rapid fire of any kind, not no how.

[Patrick Chadwick]

The loads I mentioned for the 1858 Enfield in my previous posting will got for 18 shots without cleaning - they have to, for 15 shot competitions with sighters, or 18 shots and three eliminated. BUT it is all very lube-sensitive. I tried several before getting one that works well - and that is no longer available.

Before that I did well with beeswax and lanolin. Mix to suit your climate, but keep a tight lid on the can, otherwise it hardens slowly over months. Or just mix what you need for the next 4 weeks. American recipes often refer to "Crisco". I do not know what that is, but assume it is some king of refined cooking fat, however it's marketed. Basically, beeswax + a non-mineral oil or grease. The aim is simply to keep the fouling soft - you cannot prevent fouling.

And be warned: there appears to be a certain amount of moonshine and snake-oil involved in discussions about patch and bullet lubricants. Better find some local BP shooters and ask them about their experiences!

And that brings me to the last point. ALL powders produce residues (i.e. fouling) - even nitro powders - although some may well produce a bit less. That is a chemical inevitability. So I'm sceptical of any claim that a certain powder produces no fouling. Slight exaggeration maybe?

Patrick

[MEHavey]

American "Crisco" = English "Spry" = solid/white hydrogenated cooking vegetable oil (shortening) which has the consistancy/appearance of lard at room temperature.

I also tried Vaseline as a substitute, but it seems solid cooking shortening is better, lasts forever, and is dirt cheap.

[Patrick Chadwick]

my springfields/enfields usually can get 8 shots off before the barrel gets too fouled up to get balls down with difficulty. Wish someone would make one of those "cleaner/scraper" bullets issued in the civil war.

It would be tricky to make a scraper for normal rifling, as it would need to have the rifling pattern cut into it to be effective. But I have heard of shooters of the Whitworth rifle, which has a hexagonal bore, making scrapers out of stamped copper or brass sheet. Simply placed between powder and bullet, but they would have to be a tight fit to have any effect. Since the idea was tried and discarded in the 19th century I imagine the result was not worth the effort.

Patrick

[Embalmer]

thats a good point... Was just a thought that wasnt thought through alot. I know the only reason I know of the fouling prob after 8-9 rounds, is I practiced alot firing 3 aimed shots in a minute (got it down to between 1 min and 1:08 with my CW rifles, and is usually the 4th set that needs to be cleaned before attempting it again. I never tried the home made concoctions, and will give them a try this weekend with my 1859 berdan model sharps.

[Patrick Chadwick]

Matt, there is a simple dodge to achieve a "semi-scraper" effect. If you are firing a flat-based bullet, place a piece of lubricant-saturated wad (that's high-falutin' technospeak for a wax-soaked piece of card punched out of a beermat) in the muzzle and start it, then place your bullet and drive both together down the muzzle until they are seated. This scrapes a lot of crud DOWN the barrel, so the seating point of the bullet is raised somewhat, The crud is then shot out with the bullet. Not as good a proper wipe, but saves time!

BTW what is a CW rifle? Clockwork?

Patrick

[Embalmer]

thats a good idea too.. CW = Civil War abbreviated lol