Rust and Blue Remover?

[Aragorn243]

But we wouldn't have learned about toilet bowl cleaner otherwise.

[vintage hunter]

Cleaning metals with an acid solution is an industrial process known as pickling. Cleaning guns with hydrochloric acid may not be such a good idea without first knowing what kind of steel it's made of. As it's name suggests hydrochloric acid contains hydrogen, which is know to have adverse affects on some high carbon steels and alloys, nickel and titanium alloys are particularly susceptible. As is 17-4PH stainless.
It would be wise to read up on hydrogen embrittlement and it's affects on certain type of steels and alloys before using acid to clean your rusty gun.
Definitely don't clean springs or any heat treated parts with acid containing hydrogen as it will make them brittle.

[rayg]

I can't see how a rag wet with toilet bowl cleaner that's just wiped quickly on the part (that's all it takes as the bluing comes off as you wipe the part instantly), and then rinsed off with water right away would hurt any metal, Ray

[rayg]

I used the toilet bowl cleaner on the refurbed purple color bolt cover on this SVT. It took no more then 10 seconds to remove the color and then rinse it off. I did have to weather some criticism for removing/altering that refurbed color/finish. But I felt the rifle was not original made that way any how being refurbed, refinished and renumbered. Probably by removing the purple finish, it was back to it's original finish. But that argument is for another thread, Lol, Ray

Attachment 54506Attachment 54507

[rayg]

While I don't think such a few seconds of exposer to the metal with the TB cleaner would harm the metal, I would suggest testing first it on a hidden part to make sure it works on the particular metal you're going to use it on, Ray

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Blueing is essentially controlled “rust”’

Back in the “old days”, the process involved getting the required surfaces RUSTY, i.e. BROWN, for a start. This is why many Brit technical documents refer to the process as “browning”, not “blueing”

Being RUST, the quickest way to remove it is with a “rust-remover”, as available from your local hardware shop.

The original process was very labour-intensive. The idea was to get all of the appropriate suraces covered with an even film of basic, brown rust, and then “card” it off with soft steel brushes and, literally, “card”.

Once the rust was “carded", it went back into the steam room and allowed to go rusty again. After each such cycle, the colour becomes darker, thicker and more “lustrous”.

About the only place you will find folk doing this these days is in “bespoke” (custom) gunmakers and very “up-market” gunsmith shops. It is VERY labour-intensive., and thus EXPENSIVE

These days, you just polish everything to the required “sheen” and run it through the “Dulite” tank.

HOWEVER, components made from exotic alloy steels form very interesting surface films when heat-treated. If such components are just whacked in the blueing tank with everything else, they MAY come out being anything from grey to purple.

There are two tricks:

1. Ultra-fine bead blast the offending parts before blueing; they will come out (if everything else is OK), a lustrous, satin black.

2. If you want the “full-gloss” look, drop the temperature of the tank ten degrees and immerse the part(s). They should start to develop the desired dark colour. Then slowly raise the temperature to “normal” to finish the job. It can take a bit of experimenting.

"Parkerising" is vaguely related, but the biggest difference is that the metal surface MUST be "activated", i.e. grit blasted. If this is not done before immersion in the phosphating tank, the usual result is a blotchy, pallid, grey look, the rifle looks "hung-over".

The phosphating MUST be done as soon as possible after grit-blasting; if left too long, the bare metal will start to oxidise and the end result will be uneven. After BOTH blueing and phosphating, the metalwork MUST be "de-watered" and thoroughly oiled.

Ultimately, BOTH processes are done to provide a hard, fine, crystalline film that HOLDS OIL in order to prevent corrosion; that it looks "nice" is a secondary consideration.

[browningautorifle]

All good info Bruce, thanks.

[louthepou]

Why did we bring this back from 2010? For a sales pitch?

I thought that wasn't allowed here?

Does sound fishy indeed, will look into it.

[Badger]

Resurrected thread by one post inconsiderate self serving spammer (banned) and thread closed.

Regards,
Doug