No 4 Mk1 T Transit box Reproductions/Canadian Version

[grant580]

Just a minor point, but shouldn't the round base of the staple be recessed?

Yes, Peter, I think you are right about that. I have seen boxes with some recessed and some not. I think I will start recessing them from now on as it would look better.
When you don't recess the staples/posts you have to set the hasp 1/8 of an inch ahead, or past the front face of the lid. The reason for this is the back side of the hasp where the "keyhole" slot is has to fit flat against the round staple/post mounting disc so the hasp closes, or locks up tight. When I install the brass rivet I have to slightly countersink the rivet head with a forstner bit and this does not leave much room from the countersink to the face of the lid. Hope that make sense.



This picture shows closer detail of the brass rivet and if the backing plate for the staple/post was recessed the hasp would be set farther back and that rivet and countersink would also be set back 1/8 inch more from the face of the lid.

Thanks for that tip Peter, it's comments like yours that are helping my box builds to be closer to the originals than ever. Please keep the comments coming!

[Surpmil]

I think I've got a spare dovetail jig. If you're going to the Kamloops show, perhaps I can get it up to you as I was talking to a friend today who said he's going, as well as that box we discussed previously. You're obviously well set for latches so I'll keep my three sets! I'm not going to part with the stencils, but I do believe they might go through my scanner's feeder - I'll try. Keep plugging away there.

[grant580]

Looked at some No 7 transit boxes and the staples/posts are not recessed on these boxes, but in pictures the staples/posts for any sniper boxes are recessed. Will be ordering a 1 3/4 forstner bit to start recessing them, thanks for that Peter, it was a very good point.

[grant580]

Rick, I think I've got a spare dovetail jig. If you're going to the Kamloops show, perhaps I can get it up to you as I was talking to a friend today who said he's going, as well as that box we discussed previously. You're obviously well set for latches so I'll keep my three sets! I'm not going to part with the stencils, but I do believe they might go through my scanner's feeder - I'll try. Keep plugging away there.

Hi Surpmil, I will be PMing you, Thanks

[Kev G]

Yes, Peter, I think you are right about that. I have seen boxes with some recessed and some not. I think I will start recessing them from now on as it would look better.
When you don't recess the staples/posts you have to set the hasp 1/8 of an inch ahead, or past the front face of the lid. The reason for this is the back side of the hasp where the "keyhole" slot is has to fit flat against the round staple/post mounting disc so the hasp closes, or locks up tight. When I install the brass rivet I have to slightly countersink the rivet head with a forstner bit and this does not leave much room from the countersink to the face of the lid. Hope that make sense.



This picture shows closer detail of the brass rivet and if the backing plate for the staple/post was recessed the hasp would be set farther back and that rivet and countersink would also be set back 1/8 inch more from the face of the lid.

Thanks for that tip Peter, it's comments like yours that are helping my box builds to be closer to the originals than ever. Please keep the comments coming!

The UK drawings for the chest DD(E)3063 show the staples surface mounted.



Though no idea if the workshops had other ideas.

ATB Kevin

[grant580]

Now that's interesting Kevin, thanks for that info on the posts. I guess it seems that perhaps the British didn't recess the posts and possibly the Canadians did? Any chance of you sending me a copy of those British blueprints for the box? Would love to have drawings as good as that. The drawings I have used are the ones that were circulating on the net a while back and think they were re-drawn from originals and seem to leave a lot of the measurments to one's imagination.

[Maple_Leaf_Eh]

The brass screws don't seem right to me. Brass rivets on the hasps yes, but not the screws. Wouldn't normal steel be more appropriate for an infantry, ie not near salt water, storage item?

[grant580]

The brass screws don't seem right to me. Brass rivets on the hasps yes, but not the screws. Wouldn't normal steel be more appropriate for an infantry, ie not near salt water, storage item?

That's a very good point Maple leaf eh and I thought about the decision to use brass or steel for a long time. When I get my hardware sets screws don't come with the sets because they are all rusted away. I didn't really want to use brass but had to use at least slotted screws to stay authentic. Have you ever tried to buy slotted steel screws?, they are a thing of the past since everyone came to their senses and started producing and using Robertson screws. I used to haunt antique shops snooping in old boxes and cans looking for slotted screws, found some, but not enough.

There is about a pound of screws in each box (not really that much, but 82 screws to be exact!) of four or five varing lengths and for me to find that variety of slotted screws to build each box and keep them all the same would be impossible. I chose brass because I can order every size under the sun from Lee Valley tools and they are solid, not plated, of good quaility and they never run out! I know the brass is not authentic, but you gotta admit they do go well with the green?

Didn't the British Navy keep Lanchester SMG's with brass magwells on their ships in WW 2?

[Kev G]

Grant580 I have sent the drawings to Badger for his discretion on hosting them for download.
ATB Kevin

[MJ1]

Crap now I have to re-fi the house because I need eight boxes.