My first go at reloading for .303 Brit

[chartreuse]

Hi all

I'm somewhat new to reloading, but my first couple of attempts with .38 Special were successful, so I'm about ready to have a go at reloading for my SMLEs. I've read a number of threads here and elsewhere (including a couple of epic O-ring threads) and I was hoping to get some advice on a couple of points, before I start.

Let me start by outlining where I'm at:

I have a mix of commercial brass (Win, Rem, S&B, maybe some Prvi) that was fired in my No.1 Mk. III* and a bunch of HXP '69 brass that was fired in my No.4 Mk.1

I didn't know about O-rings when I fired those rounds, but my brass is segregated by rifle.

I have a box of .311 Spitzer (Speer, 150 grain) and am being given a half box of Sierra, 180 grain .311 Spitzers.

I've ordered a Lee Deluxe die set, with FL and neck sizing dies and also ordered a factory crimp die. I'll probably pick my loads from the current Lyman or Lee books.

My first question is, given that I didn't use the O-ring fire forming technique, is my best move to full length size, fire form with an O-ring then neck size thereafter, or should I just skip straight to neck sizing. If the latter, is there any benefit to using an O-ring when I next shoot the rounds, or has that ship sailed?

My other question is, should I anticipate any problems fitting commercial primers in the HXP cases? If so, what's the preferred technique?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Information

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[Alan de Enfield]

1st thing - scrap the S&B cases. Everyone I know who has reloaded them has had split cases by the second reload (3rd firing)
Win & Rem cases are a little better but try and use only the Prvi & HXP.
The Prvi and HXP have thicker rims and will 'in effect' tighten up your headspace.
Just measure the rim thicknesses between the various brands.

If you have kept the cases seperated by rifle then just neck size and keep them for the original rifle.

I've yet to have any success (accuracy wise) with the 150 grain bullets, they just dont seem to be long enough to stabilise in the rifling.

[RobD]

I agree with Alan's suggestions. Also, I have abandoned crimping - there's no need for it, as the neck tension is perfectly adequate with the neck resizing die.

[tbonesmith]

It's so easy if you keep it simple. Either full length size and shoot any round in any rifle or neck size and segregate, and even then you'll have to full length size occasionally.
Until you're a bit more familiar with all the processes involved I'd recommend just full length sizing. It will eliminate any case size malfunctions ie. rounds not chambering, and it works fine.
I use remington brass and case life is excellent.
With the HXP you may just have to chamfer the primer pocket the first time you reload it with a little deburring tool you probably got in you reloading setup.
Regarding the o-ring technique, other than for some very questionable reasons (correcting excessive headspace???!!!, and getting indefinate case life....) I think it's a big fat waste of time and effort, and you should just plain forget it.

[Parashooter]

If you haven't already done so, you might read the post at Milsurps - Headspace 101 for .303's

This may help you understand what a rim spacer (O-ring or other material) can and can't accomplish. (Essentially, very little unless your rifle suffers from grossly excessive headspace or your cases have abnormally thin rims.)

[smellie]

O-rings also can be a help when you run into brass which just isn't fat enough for the chamber of he rifle. The O-ring will center the thing so that when it is fired, expansion will be all around the casing and thus won't give you a weak side and a strong side.

But your brass already has been fired. That CAN be bad, but not necessarily. What's GOOD is that you have segregated it by rifle..... and it shrinks a little before you remove it from the chamber..... so brass from Rifle A should fit back into Rifle A, Rifle B's brass will fit Rifle B and so forth.

My rifles show a definite preference for the Sierra 180, but I also get very good results with 150s. I think the secret lies in throwing away the book and seating your bullet so that they are the same length as a military Ball round. This gets your bullet closer to the leade, that vital first bit of rifling. Most .303 rifles have fairly generous leades, so it is possible, going by the book, to seat your bullets so that there is so much jump from the case-neck to the rifling that your bullets try to enter the rifling cocked a bit to one side, then hit the rifling and try to straighten out..... all in under a thousandth of a second..... and you have a deformed projectile attempting to shoot a match-grade target. So you seat the bullet out to military length in order to minimise the distortion. Works on my rifles, anyway.

As to primers, you will want to remove what bit of crimp is on the Greek cases (HXP), definitely. After that, primers should insert with no trouble.

You will be using American powders most likely, so here are a couple of loads you might try. These shoot very well in my own rifles, both coming in at well under 1 inch at 100 yards. The nice thing is that they both are relatively mild loads. In both cases, seat to the OAL of a military Mark VII Ball round.

With the 150 bullet, try 40 grains of IMR-4064 or IMR-4895.

With the 180 bullet, try 37 grains of IMR-4895.

These are my test loads for any .303. They are safe in any good-condition rifle made since 1888.

Have fun!
.

[chartreuse]

Thanks Chaps, this is all very helpful. I had read Parashooter's Headspace 101, a long time ago, but I clearly needed a refresher.

Shame about the S&B - I have another three boxes of the stuff! Would I be right in thinking that there's no harm in trying to get at least one reload out of them?

I ordered the crimp die on the basis of the explanation on Lee's site - but Smellie's approach seems to make more sense. Since I'll have it, I might try a few permutations, (book OAL with and without crimp, military OAL, with and without crimp), just to see if I can notice any difference. Mind, there's only 0.1" difference in the OAL's (2.975" vs 3.075"). My quick attempt at searching did not reveal the OAL of Mk VII Ball, but I think I have some upstairs, that I can measure.

[bouletbill]

I'm in the same position , just starting out with re-loading because I can't find any cheap ammo in France . I'm thinking you could save the S&B cases for low powered short range plinking . Cast lead gas-check bullets pushed by shotgun powder ..... info is out there if you search .

I've only got one .303 and I can't understand why the fired cases (HXP) are tight rechambering , even before I've reloaded ! ... answers anyone ?

[chartreuse]

Cheers, Bill, that's kind of what I was thinking. At least the firearms restrictions in France are less bad than those in England (where I'm originally from). I had to move to Texas to find laws that were more to my taste.

No idea on the tightness thing - I could have a random wild guess, but it's probably better to wait for somebody who knows what they're talking about to comment.

Re the OAL of military Mark VII Ball - I pulled a stripper clip of 1944 Radway Green from the two bandos I have and measured all 5 rounds. I got a range from 3.005" to 3.040", which is a smidgin more than the 2.975" that my Lyman book calls for for 150 grain.

My Lee book, OTOH, gives an OAL of 3.075" for all weights, so I'll probably work to that (or a tad under) for both weights.

[Buntlineguy]

Many Enfields that have seen a lot of use are a little worn or corroded where the bullet enters the barrel. I found that they don't like light bullets or boat-tails. I use Hornady 3130 round-nose. They give excellent performance.