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Thread: Can't Close Bolt on my No.4 Mk 1

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    Legacy Member Paramarine's Avatar
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    Can't Close Bolt on my No.4 Mk 1

    Hi all,
    I just inherited a No. 4 Mk 1 (I will post pix in the next few days).

    My cousin was holding it for me and he removed the bolt before putting it into the case for travel.

    When I reinsert the bolt I can’t get it to close all the way. That is, I can push the bolt all the way forward, but when I got to close the bolt and turn it clockwise it will only travel about half the way it should.

    I’ve watched a few youtubes that show how to remove and reinsert the bolt and it *looks* like I’m doing everything right, but I still can’t get it to work properly.

    Does anyone have any advice for me?

    I’m new to Enfields but am looking forward to firing this baby!

    Along those lines, what books to you recommend for a Newbie?

    Thanks and Semper fi
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Peter Laidler's Avatar
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    1) Make sure that the bolt head is screwed fully home
    2) make sure that the cocking piece is turned FULLY to the left - clockwise - when viewed from the rear
    3) If none of the above, you have a snapped cocking piece

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    This may seem very basic but are you turning the bolt head down and into the receiver rail?

    If your rifle is a No.4 Mark 1, you need to insert the bolt, depress the bolt catch on the right hand side of the receiver and rotate the bolt head down so that the groove in the bolt head can slide along the rail in the receiver wall.
    If your rifle is a No.4 mark 1*, it doesn't have a bolt catch but instead has a cut out in the right hand side of the receiver wall. You insert the bolt, push it forward until the bolt head aligns with the cut out in the RHS receiver rail and then rotate the bolt head down, engaging the rail and simply slide the bolt forward.

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    Hi ..

    I agree in that it's probable the bolt head rotated a bit counter clockwise and now it won't close. I remember it happening to me with my first Enfield and I thought I'd broke something.

    Perhaps download a complete set of manuals for the Lee Enfield, which includes operating and armourer's maintenance instructions.

    The manuals may be found in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)


    2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)

    Complete Set includes:

    - 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Data Summary
    - 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Parts Identification List
    - 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
    - 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Equipment Description
    - 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions


    1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)

    Complete Set includes:

    - 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
    - 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions

    Note: The difference between the 1991 set of No.4 Manuals and 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals, is that the 1991 manual contains armourer's information on how to properly "bed" the No.4 rifle, whereas the newer 2002 manual does not.

    Hope this helps...

    Regards,
    Doug

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    Legacy Member Paramarine's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! You guys are great. I'll give this a try tomorrow and let you know how it works out.

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    try pushing a little harder on it

    just got a mk4 no1 and thought i had the same problem. so i googled something about a bolt catch and ended up here. in my case, i was just being too gentle. i dont have to slam it down, just push firm towards the muzzle. or is mine broken too?

    semper fi
    erick

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    When I reinsert the bolt I can’t get it to close all the way. That is, I can push the bolt all the way forward, but when I got to close the bolt and turn it clockwise it will only travel about half the way it should.
    I'm not saying this is what is wrong with yours but that is exactly what mine did after the cocking piece broke.
    Last edited by Rumpelhardt; 12-26-2010 at 09:19 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by harbere1 View Post
    just got a mk4 no1 and thought i had the same problem. so i googled something about a bolt catch and ended up here. in my case, i was just being too gentle. i dont have to slam it down, just push firm towards the muzzle. or is mine broken too?

    semper fi
    erick

    No problem, it was designed purposely that way! It eliminates much of the cocking force required on opening, so the operator can more easily extract a "sticky" case.

    Makes for faster overall operation as well, but that may have been an unforeseen bonus.

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    Legacy Member bouletbill's Avatar
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    Hi jmoore , don't know if I'm misunderstanding you , but there is no cocking force on opening a L-E , because they all cock on closing , excepting only the No8, and maybe a few specials (unless I'm mistaken).

    A word of advice to anyone new to a Lee-Enfield ... although a fair amount of force can be required to close (cock) and chamber a round , don't use the palm of your hand , a jam can hurt , esp. if doing a mad minute . Thumb and forefinger only, in my experience .

    bon chance.

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    bouletbill, watch the cocking piece closely as you open a Lee bolt and you'll see that about 1/7 of the total cocking job takes place on opening, thanks to the cam arrangement at the rear end of the bolt body.

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