New to BP Pistol

[fuzybum]

I'm getting started in BP and would like info on how best to seal the end of the cyl. to prevent chain fire. Also do you need a spacer between powder and ball. Any and all info. would be appreciated. Thanks

Information

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[browningautorifle]

If you buy Lyman realoader manual 49 or whichever one you can find, the whole process is layed out for you. Yes you use a grease on the front of the cylinder after loading. There are several varieties available depending on where in the world you are. It goes on after the ball goes in. That seals the front and eliminates chain fire. No wad needed over powder in revolver. Make sure you use a ball big enough to cut a ring when you lever it in place. Balls hit harder, pointed bullets fly more accurately. Make sure there's no "space" between the powder and projectile or you will have problems. Get the book and read all about it.

[Patrick Chadwick]

I am still waiting to see evidence of chain fire caused by ignition at the front of the cylinder. Since percussion revolvers are usually loaded these days with a wad between the powder and the ball, and lube on top of that, I am probably going to wait a long time.

It seems more plausible that chain fire can be caused by the flash from the percusion cap igniting the neighboring chamber through poorly fitting caps/worn nipples. Whatever the truth, most of what I have heard about chainfire up to now has to be classified as "anecdotal".

For best accuracy with a percussion revolver, you want the ball to be seated just below the chamber mouth. To fill up the space behind with powder would be an unnecessarily heavy load which strains your wrists and the revolver, and reduces accuracy. So a typical load for a 44 revolver might be anything from 15 to 25 grains of a fine grained powder such as Swiss No. 1 = 4Fg (less required) or possibly Swiss No. 2 = 3Fg (more required), with a wad on top that is thick enough to seat the ball just below the chamber mouth. Since percussion revolver chambers are often lightly coned, seating the ball deeper means more distortion - poorer fit in the forcing cone - reduced accuracy. The wad also helps to seal the gap between cylinder and forcing cone while the ball is entering the cone, and this may well help to get a higher muzzle velocity with a given load.

If you try to fire a percussion revolver without enough lubrication, you will find that the cylinder will be jammed after the first one or two shots by the powder residues in the gap between cylinder and barrel/frame. So you do not have an option. You must fill up the front of the chamber, around the ball, with a good lubricant. "Good" means you can shoot a complete competition target (3 cylinder-fulls) without the cylinder jamming. People have used all sorts of substances, from Nivea cream (smells pleasant!) to snake oil. Good is what works for you.

Until someone can produce a high-speed film to show I am wrong, I am pretty sure that front-ignited chain fire is impossible with such a setup - powder/wad/ball/ lube. Just make sure that all the nipples are in good condition, with no peened-over edges, and that the caps fit snugly!

[Claven2]

All good info so far. Earlier Cap and Ball repro revolvers had poorly made nipples. It's a fact. Never Pietta nipples seemed better on my 2009 made 1858 Remington, but I always replace factory nipples with new No.11 cap nipples from Treso and I've never had a problem with caps not fitting tightly. I also give them a little squeeze as they go on.

For loading, powder is usually around 24gr FFG as a standard .44 C&B load. A wad is optional. Before you go the the expense, try without. If you get unsatisfactory groups, try again with wads. The ball is fully seated and most guys use grease lube over the ball. Even if you don't believe in chainfire, this is a good idea to keep fouling down. I just use cheap no-name Crisco, it works well enough that I've never felt the need to spend more on wonder-lubes.

[jmoore]

I'm also a Crisco user. No wads. I do run powder charges large enough to keep the ball near the top of the cylinder as I can't see much degradation in accuracy versus the lighter charge w/ wad method. However, that doesn't mean I don't try different things when testing a new purchase. Wads come along in the possibles bag just in case. I've also found that caps of the same number but of different mfg. are not always the same size! Get a few varieties and both #10s and #11s. Sooner or later, you or a friend will use 'em.

Mine are all Colts or copies in various calibers from .31 to .44 except for a Ruger New Army (Very accurate and powerful!) and a "new" Remington clone that hasn't been tested yet. (Not too sure it's going to be worth the trouble as the barrel is visibly angled to one side! Eh, only US$50.)

[Claven2]

FWIW, having owned both the Colt clones and Remington clones, IMHO the Remington is a better gun. I'm talking about the 1858 patent New Army. The top strap and axis pin is a better design than the the wedge & pin design of the Colts. You can rapidly reload by swapping the cylinders as well. And finally, a Richards-Mason type cartridge conversion drops right in while on the colts you are generally stuck with the R&D capped cylinder conversions with lower power loads.

[Claven2]

PS: The Colt has nicer lines though so is the aesthetics winner for sure Especially the 1860 Army.

[Doug Rammel]

I agree with Patrick. I shoot a Ruger old Army. I use a 457 RB and crisco. It doesn't seem to matter if it's butter flavored or regular.

[fuzybum]

Thanks for all the postings as soon as it warms up a bit I'll get out and play with my new toy as my wife calls it. Thanks to all Fuzybum.

[madcratebuilder]

Chain fires are more often caused by poor fitting caps. The Colt Co wrote information on this and I have read it in other period literature. The cap needs to fully seat on the nipple and it should not be squeezed as this makes them oval shaped and allows hot gases to get past the cap. If you have a out of round cylinder or ball you may experience a chain fire from the front of the cylinder. If you shave a complete lead ring when seating the round ball you have sealed the chamber, if it is round.