A question for the experts about the trigger pull / bolt fit on a 1903 Springfield

[1903uci]

Please excuse me if this question has already been asked, I could not find it on your forum.

I noticed at the range that the 2nd stage of the trigger pull on my rifle was somewhat variable. Sometimes short, sometimes long. At home on a bench I found that the sear/cocking piece engagement varied slightly each time the bolt was closed. The bolt sleeve can be moved up and down about .020". This problem seems to result from the bolt body fitting loosely at the back of the receiver. The bolt locks up fine at the front. Despite the trigger, the gun is actually quite accurate. I shot my first 1" group at 100 yds using a rolled up beach towel as a rest. I bought this rifle cheaply so that I could learn about how to make it better. Unfortunately, the stock was already cut down and holes were drilled in the receiver. The serial number is from the '30s and the barrel looks great. (Re-barreled during WW2).

Is the correction for this problem to:
a) beat on the rear bridge of the receiver with a sledge hammer until is fits tightly to the bolt? - not really
b) add metal to the bottom of the bolt sleeve to push the bolt up against the inside top of the rear bridge of the receiver?
c) buy a new bolt or add metal to the bolt so that it fits tighter into the space under the rear bridge?
d) none of the above - take it to a gunsmith
e) other

If you think the answer is d, please explain what you expect the gunsmith to do.

Thanks a lot

Information

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[Mike D]

Welcome to the forum! When I cock the bolt on a few of my rifles, I can grab the cocking piece and wiggle it a little bit. A little play is probably normal.

As far as the trigger, check the areas on the sear and cocking piece, where they engage each other, for wear.

I wouldn't alter anything on your rifle. Photos are always a big help in these matters.

[vintage hunter]

Check the sear spring. It should have 8 coils and be roughly 9/16'' long. If your rifle has been sportered Bubba may well have snipped a coil or two off in the attempt reduce trigger pull weight. It could just be collapsed from age. If there's still 8 coils on it, try stretching it a bit.

[Jim Tarleton]

If you are determined to take up the slack, just drill two holes in the bottom of the sleeve, tap them for fillister head screws (the heads will ride on the receiver rails), and file down the screw heads until you have a tight fit. If it wears out, replace the screws and refile. This method has been used for decades. You might want to polish the various surfaces while you have them apart.

Jim

[1903uci]

The sear spring and wear at the sear/cocking piece engagement are not the source of the problem, but thanks for the input.

Jim, you are definitely understanding the issue. Adding metal to the bottom of the bolt sleeve in the form of screw heads is a good idea. Polishing all the engagement surfaces will now be a part of this project.

Are there any more elegant methods to accomplish a tighter bolt/rear bridge fit?

[vintage hunter]

Yeah, there is, if you really want to get technical about it. Build up the bottom of the sleeve with a Heli-Arc welder and a piece of .035'' E 70-s2(mild carbon steel) mig wire as fillet mat'l and take it to a machine shop to be milled to a perfect fit and then have the sleeve re-parked or blued. Can't get much more elaborate than that.

[Emri]

Jim & 1903uci,

I think the angles of the sear and cocking piece have the most to do with the proposed question. There is inherent "slop" between the bolt, reciever, bolt shroud, etc. A "proper" angle between the sear and cocking piece will "force" the cocking piece to try to over ride the sear, but not let it do so. (for safety reasons and proper function) This upward force will automatically cause the parts to be at a "minimum" looseness when in the cocked position. The only thing to address then is the difference between the "first" stage of the trigger and the "second stage" of same.

I have experienced many different trigger pull differences on M1903's and some are not too good and many are right at the magic 3.5# second stage pull. The better ones (3.5#) have had NO work done to them to overcome some percieved mechanical deficiancies, i.e.- "slop".

The screw idea Jim mentioned, while it may be practical and eliminate one variable, is only a "fix" for that particular part of the rifle and may well require adjustment or replacement at a future date as he stated.

It IS a better method than "filing down" the sear or cocking piece to eliminate creep in the second stage. Either of those methods usually require new parts for a SAFE trigger because when some tolerences are reduced, the "slop" could let another piece change position from where it was previously and you NEVER get a consistant trigger pull.

1903uci; option "D" would be in order if you do not fully understand the relationships between the different parts of the rifle. By all means, do NOT try option "A".


HTH,

Emri

[1903uci]

Vintage Hunter- I have the tig welder and mill, but such an option is "elaborate" and not "elegant".
Emri - The mechanics that you are describing would allow a sufficient force to move the cocking piece forward without the trigger being pulled. I will have to get another opinion before I consider your suggestion about the sear/cocking piece relationship.

Thank you all for your help. I think that option c) in the form of sleeving the bolt is the way to go.
I was trying to hint that D is not really an option. I am trying to gain knowledge by working on a "cheap" gun. Smart money would buy a modern rifle, rather than pay someone to work on this example.

[Emri]

Emri - The mechanics that you are describing would allow a sufficient force to move the cocking piece forward without the trigger being pulled. I will have to get another opinion before I consider your suggestion about the sear/cocking piece relationship.

Never mind what I said about the angles of the sear. That information is invalid. It was late at night when I wrote that and I was confusing the 1903 system with another one I was seeing in my head. Trying to remember everything and relying on my memory sometimes don't go together very well !

My comment about seeking advise from a qualified gunsmith was valid. I don't know what your level of ability is so I did qualify my statement with an "if".

Good luck with the project!

Emri

[campbellbook]

I would like to add that the procedure for getting a perfectly clean breaking trigger pull is well covered in the book "The '03 Springfield Rifles' Era", available from Brownell's or Scott Duff.

---------- Post added at 06:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:15 PM ----------

Forgot to give pages 256 through 258 as being where the dope is to be found.