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Advisory Panel
Originally Posted by
1903uci
Vintage Hunter- I have the tig welder and mill, but such an option is "elaborate" and not "elegant".
Emri - The mechanics that you are describing would allow a sufficient force to move the cocking piece forward without the trigger being pulled. I will have to get another opinion before I consider your suggestion about the sear/cocking piece relationship.
Thank you all for your help. I think that option c) in the form of sleeving the bolt is the way to go.
I was trying to hint that D is not really an option. I am trying to gain knowledge by working on a "cheap" gun. Smart money would buy a modern rifle, rather than pay someone to work on this example.
If you do that I hope you don't live in a place with wide temperature variations.
Jim
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"Me. All the rest are deados!"
67th Company, 5th Marines 1st Sgt. Daniel "Pop" Hunter's response to 1st Lt. Jonas Platt's query "Who is your Commander"?, Torcy side of Hill 142, Belleau Wood, 8:00 am, 6 Jun 1918.
Semper Fidelis!
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02-03-2011 09:34 PM
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I would add Springfield Sporters has grooved triggers for cheap. Grab 2 and best of luck.
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I believe Gunparts Corp. has a drop in replacement trigger that is single stage
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single stage trigger
Single Stage Trigger & Sear Assemblies-Modified Military Trigger w/ Sear & Pin
Here's the link to the part I was talking about. It may or may not solve your problem .
I do know from working in the parts dept. with a great gunsmith that replacement bolts need to be headspaced correctly and this can be costly since the barrel has to be turned in. Many areas no longer have qualified gunsmiths to turn to but don't despair! If you still have problems with the rifle's performance Fulton Armory and several other companies are around that can restore vintage U.S. military rifles to like new condition.
Contact Brownell's if you are in doubt as to whom you can trust your weapon to.
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How many directions can one thread go! 3 maybe 4 I guess......Rick
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