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  1. #1
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    Help relining a .22 cal rifle

    Hi guys, for a while I've been thinking about relining a couple of rifles in my collection. One is a .22 Vickers Martini, and the other is an Indian No2 Mk4 .22 smle, which i think is a scrubbed enfield.
    I havn't done this before and while I've read the Brownells Instructions I can't imagine that using a hand held power drill to be the preferred method of obtaining a professional result.
    I suppose I'll scratch up some pulled out .22 barrels for dry runs.
    I'm also quite interested in relining some .303's to .22, but that's down the track.
    Any advice from those who've done some would be much appreciated, and the advice will be put to good use and the results posted.
    Thanks in advance.

    Also so you know where I'm at, I have a good lathe and a solid group of relevant tools, I havn't yet bought the tubes or the drill/s and advice on the choice of tooling and tube choice would also be appreciated. I'm prepared to get what's required to do it right as I'll probably do quite a few of these in the future.
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    Chuckindenver will have done a plethora of these. Maybe PM him. I know the how to's but not like that.
    Regards, Jim

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    sorry, thats not something id do,, last one i had, i had my mentor tackle for me. he has long since passsed, and the only one i knew that could do it without destroying averything.
    he high temped them in, rather then use epoxy.
    warpath metal finishing contact info.
    molinenorski@msn.com
    720-841-1399 during normal bus, hours.

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    Then I can at least tell you what I know for sure. The hand drill idea isn't the way to go. There's a special and expensive clearance drill to purchase. It was quite long. It was worth it. The one my gunsmith used was a standard drill welded to a long steel rod. It was not desirable. You have a lathe so that's good. Chuck was eluding to sweating rather than epoxy but I know the epoxy works well. I've never done well with sweating or silver solder. The hardest part has to be getting the liner in place without buggering it up. After, facing the muzzle and breech wasn't bad but I found I had to hand cut a dovetail in a rapid taper octagon 86 Winchester barrel. That was a hand job. There were extractor cuts to allow also. The chamber also but that wasn't bad. 22 cal will be a tad more forgiving than large cal I think. Hopefully some of these other guys will climb on here and tell you also.
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member jamie5070's Avatar
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    I have been thinking of converting two guns I have to .22 also. The one that worries me the most is an old hopkins and allen falling block boys shotgun in .38xl. It will chamber a .357 round and I can invision some stupid individual doing that after I'm long gone.
    Brownells and Track of the Wolf carry liners. Track of the wolf also carries them in other calibers, and they are sold by the inch. They can get expensive.
    john

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    Legacy Member RCS's Avatar
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    22 rim fire barrel liner

    On the Remington 43 cal rolling block that I found in my father's basement, I cut-off the original barrel to ten inches then bored out the inside to half inch dia. I bought a new 3/4 inch 22 rf blank and turned-down the last then inches to half inch outside dia plus some shallow rings for the glue. Also made a hard bushing for the chamber area around the new barrel as there was still room from the large 43 cal chamber. I had to make the extractor from round stock than milled it, than I made the scope blocks. Also worked over the action and made a stock. Attachment 19937 Attachment 19938 Attachment 19939 Attachment 19940
    Last edited by Amatikulu; 06-26-2011 at 09:58 AM.

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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by RCS View Post
    On the Remington 43 cal rolling block that I found in my father's basement, I cut-off the original barrel to ten inches then bored out the inside to half inch dia. I bought a new 3/4 inch 22 rf blank and turned-down the last then inches to half inch outside dia plus some shallow rings for the glue. Also made a hard bushing for the chamber area around the new barrel as there was still room from the large 43 cal chamber. I had to make the extractor from round stock than milled it, than I made the scope blocks. Also worked over the action and made a stock
    Looks like a neat job, but I want to maintain all the barrel markings on the Vickers, and the sights an the No2 Mk4

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    We do a lot of these in our shop; two just last week, converting M1903A3 demils to .22lR. If you have a good lathe, you can buy the short piloted drill from Bbrownells and silver braze on an extension using the lathe for centering. You need to turn down the end of the drill to make a loose fitting tenon to fit a drilled hole in the extension, or vice versa. I say loose, because you need to leave several thousandths clearance for the solder to wick in. I use low temperature silver braze and it holds up well. I wet the cleaned inside of the bored-out barrel and the outside of the liner with Devcon Epoxy Steel and push in the liner from the breech end using a little cork to prevent epoxy getting into the muzzle end. It takes quite a bit of pressure, due to the viscosity of the epoxy - I hold the barrel in the headstock, and use the tailstock as a jack to push it in 3 or 4 inches at a time. Cutting the extractor groves at the chamber end f is usually the most ticklish part of the job, especially on the old single-shot drop-block actions (e.g. Martini Cadet). If I can help further, drop me a note, or call me at our shop, 352 567 9800 (Wednesday throuogh Saturday).

    OlManDow

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