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Thread: Clocking K98k RC's trigger guard screws??

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  1. #1
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    Question Clocking K98k RC's trigger guard screws??

    Ok, I'm used to tightening the trigger guard screws on '03s, SMLEs, etc just as hard as I can to make sure the action is not loose in the stock, but the K98kicon has me puzzled.

    I just finished cleaning up a 1940 243 coded K98k RC.

    I purchased replacements for the missing sling, cleaning rod and locking screws and they fitted with no problems.

    I do have a question about how tight the trigger guard screws have to be.

    When I tighten the screws completely, I can not install the locking screws since the recesses of the trigger guard screw heads do not line up with the lock screws.
    I have to back off the trigger guard screws almost ¼ turn to get the locking screw recesses to line up.

    I feel that this condition leaves the action loose in the stock.

    1) Is this condition acceptable?
    2) Should I obtain different trigger guard screws that hopefully will "clock" correctly?
    3) Or should I install shims under the screw heads to rectify the clocking?

    Here are the shims I'm asking about
    MidwayUSA - The page you were looking for could not be found...

    Any help is welcomed

    D.
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    I don't know about how exceptable it is but i do know it's common on mausers w/capture screws, at least the ones i've fiddled with. They may have been made this way but i think it's caused by wood compression and or shrinkage over time. The problem may be cured by giving the stock a good mopping with BLOicon to see if it will swell the wood a little. Not sure on replacing the guard screws themselves, knowing the Gremans they probably timed all the threads the same. I would probably make a shim to go between the mag box and the wood to prevent any further compression issues. FWIW, I normally tighten the peace outa the gaurd screws too.
    Last edited by vintage hunter; 04-02-2011 at 02:30 AM.

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    Thread Starter
    Thanks for the reply,

    The stock has been cleaned, steamed and given multiple coats of BLOicon and Tung oil.
    I ordered some shims from Midway.

    D.

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    Thread Starter

    Thumbs up New Forster screws worked!!

    Guess what happened!
    I ordered shims and a new Forster trigger guard screw/lock screw set from MidwayUSA.
    They arrived yesterday and I installed the Forster screws without shims to see if they would line up when tightened and they did!!!
    They lined up perfectly!!!!
    Did not have to crank down on them either!!
    Nice looking screws too.
    Now I guess I have extra shims……

    D.

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    Legacy Member Jim's Avatar
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    Tightening the bejabbers out of the action is not the ideal situation. That can put the barrel in a bind and affect your accuracy and cause you shots to 'string.' What I do is snug the front action screw then do the back. Then I'll go back and tweak the front in and the back again to 'clock in' the locking screws. I feel this gives me more consistency. If you feel that leaves the action too loose, shim the action. I'll put shims on top of the cross bolt. Try cutting shims from aluminum drink cans. Usually 1-3 will do the trick. Keep in mind you don't want the action over tightened or put anything in a bind. As long as the action is held firm, the locking screws will prevent the action screws from backing out. That's the reason for them, consistency.

    OOPS! I don't know how I missed his last post. I'm glad they worked out. I'll leave mine in case it is a help to somebody. Especially about the alum can shims. They'll run about .015 apiece.
    Last edited by Jim; 04-07-2011 at 02:52 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dad View Post
    Ok, I'm used to tightening the trigger guard screws on '03s, SMLEs, etc just as hard as I can to make sure the action is not loose in the stock, but the K98kicon has me puzzled.
    I am glad to hear that you now have your K98k sorted out. But the lesson to be learnt is that it is not good to "tighten the trigger guard screws on '03s, SMLEs, etc just as hard as I can". The trigger guard screws should pinch the wood, not crush it. The locking screws on the Mausers facilitate a repeatable "pinch". So how much is a pinch? I suggest: about the maximum force you can apply with one hand around the handle, as if you were going to stab downwards with the screwdriver. The other hand pushing down in the top of the handle, to hold the blade securely in the slot. Which means - unless you like to live dangerously - clamping the rifle in a vice with a good soft packing. One hand in the usual fine-control screwdriver grip is too weak. Two hands wrapped around the grip may be too much.

    Unscientific, I know, but it puts you in the right range!

    Patrick

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