Stock Hairline Crack---Repair

[JOHN42768]

Hi, Can anyone tell me if there is a glue available that come in something like a hypo syringe. I'd like to get the glue inside the crack rather then just on the surface. I would think the viscosity needs to be very soupy. Crack is 4-5" long and shows through part of the way, but no movement to allow access. Thanks in advance. John

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[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

Email Charlie or Frank. They do a lot of stock work.

[Rustship]

PM Frankderrico, he does excellant work

[Denny779]

BLO Tung Oil Finish....How to use CA....Cosmo Penetrat in C&R stock cleaning Forum

Welcome to Satellite City - Instant Glue, Instant Service since 1970

[painter777]

CA is whats found in super glue.... CyanoAcrylate
It can be bought in a bottle like eye drops or it can be used in a syringe. If using a syringe just clean it out by drawing a syringe or two full of MEK after using. I get them from my Doctor with 3 different size needles.
Trick here is practicing how your going to glue and clamp, as time is limited due to the glue setting. Plan ahead before you start to glue. Know which end to start at.

Usually I start on the end of a crack and work my way out to the splintered edge.
Best to work at it by placing a small dab every 1/8" like spot welding and don't try to glue the whole crack at one time. When the first 2-4 spots cure, continue this same step until you've 'Spot glued in the crack'. Think of it as just dotting your I's every 1/8" or so.
To protect areas outside the crack line, you can use masking tape on either side of the crack and slowly bridge the gap. You don't want a big high build up, your just weaping in the crack. So don't try running a big long bead of glue, continue the small spotting like you started until the crack is coated. Don't try to make the glue your final topcoat. Done properly you can fill any low void with a light coat or two of the finish oil you like.

Yours sounds like a open grain check if you can't find any movement. But try clamping with padded clamps first to see if you can draw the grain back together, if so, have a few clamps ready to go (and know where they should be placed) before you dab your first couple spots.

I've had the top rails on either sides cracked that push inward. I've found using a small TIGHT SPOT copper pipe cutting tool to be very handy by placing it inside the stocks Op Slide channel and adjust it, getting the rail even with the stocks outer edge. Once adjusted it keeps the stock and cracked piece lined up....
Mini Tubing Cutter Brake Fuel Line Cut Copper Tube Pipe | eBay

Sorta hard to explain...... Easier to do.
Especially if you could post a picture of the injury on your stock.

HTH,
Charlie-painter777

[INLAND44]

I like Super Glue too for cracks, but use a different method. First, though, you have to translate/interpret this: 'Crack is 4-5" long and shows through part of the way, but no movement to allow access'. Are you saying it's big enough to show daylight through? If so, you can't use the easy method. If it really is a 'hairline crack' as the title stated, where you can see it's cracked but you can't get a piece of paper in the crack and there's no movement, you can use Super Glue. If it's a tight crack with no movement, there will also be no clamping. If it can be made tighter by clamping, you go ahead and do so. You need fresh Super Glue, the most 'watery' kind you can find. The Loctite brand is usually good. The small bottle will be enough. Have some Acetone ready to remove excess before it hardens, although if it does it's no big deal.
The object is to apply the SG so it can 'wick' into the crack. For a large one like yours you may want to hit it at several places. But in my method, you don't wait for it to cure - you keep wicking it in until refusal, then stop for about 10 minutes, then try again. The theory is, the SG wicks into the entire crack, then soaks into the adjacent wood, which is why you have to keep doping it. Once you have it saturated and it cures overnight, you might need to use the Acetone along the crack to remove excess or just sand it. At this point you can hit baseballs with it. It might break somewhere else, but it'll never break again at the place you fixed.

[JOHN42768]

Thank you for your response. The crack would be considered a tight one based on no paper or light through it. John

[ulflyer]

John, if you have a good hobby shop around you can find the bottles of glue that come in several vicosities. They also have small droppers for about 50 cents to suck up the glue and you don't have to cut the nozzle on the bottle, thus it will keep longer.
I had a hairline behind the recoil plate and used the very thinest, about likt water. Worked out well.