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    Removing varnish from bluing.

    G'day Guys,

    Can anyone give me the do's and don't about removing varnish from bluing without damaging the finish. I think this guy used as 6 inch paint brush to apply varnish to the stock.

    Myles
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    Non-acqueous organic solvents are OK

    "Bluing" - whatever the actual color - is basically iron oxides of various flavors and intensity. So non-aqueous organic solvents will have absolutely no effect whatsoever on the metal. In other words, you can use acetone etc without any problem (at least, not for the metal!) Just make sure that the substance you use has no water content! So no oven cleaners, acids, caustic soda or the like - they are all watery.

    Patrick

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    I agree with Patrick, acetone would be my choice.
    Regards, Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick View Post
    "Bluing" - whatever the actual color - is basically iron oxides of various flavors and intensity. So non-aqueous organic solvents will have absolutely no effect whatsoever on the metal. In other words, you can use acetone etc without any problem (at least, not for the metal!) Just make sure that the substance you use has no water content! So no oven cleaners, acids, caustic soda or the like - they are all watery.

    Patrick
    Acetone is in fact an aqueous solution because it is a hydro carbon. The formula is C3H6O. Hydro carbons are are usually slightly acidic because they have hydrogen and oxygen molecules surrounding a carbon molecule and then by definition it is aqueous. It is the same a gasoline, witch is aqueous. That also is the reason that acetone is more concentrated at lower tempetures-exactly like gasoline.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mdrim13 View Post
    Acetone is in fact an aqueous solution because it is a hydro carbon. The formula is C3H6O. Hydro carbons are are usually slightly acidic because they have hydrogen and oxygen molecules surrounding a carbon molecule and then by definition it is aqueous. It is the same a gasoline, witch is aqueous. That also is the reason that acetone is more concentrated at lower tempetures-exactly like gasoline.
    My chemistry knowledge is thoroughly rusted, so I can't quite follow your "hydrogen and oxygen molecules surrounding a carbon molecule and then by definition it is aqueous". The acetone (a.k.a. propanone) molecule contains hydrogen atoms (not molecules) and one single oyxgen atom.

    "The formula is C3H6O." Actually, I think it is better written as CH3COCH3, being two CH3 groups and a single oxygen atom bound to a central carbon atom. There is no direct bond between the oxygen atom and any of the hydrgen atoms. An aqueous solution is surely a solution in water, not a molecule that happens to incude hydrogen and oxygen atoms? Acetone is indeed miscible with water, but that does not make it per se aqueous.

    However, the important thing is that acetone and other water-free solvents will not affect the bluing, which was the important fact for answering the original question. And, because it is so volatile, it can be effectively used to wash grease and varnish etc right out of the corners.

    A more important point is - keep the room really well ventilated if you use it as a wash - or do it outside!

    Patrick
    Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 05-10-2011 at 04:39 AM.

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    And cover your hands. Use a natural bristle brush or it will liquify a nylon brush.
    Regards, Jim

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    a can of brake parts cleaner at your local auto parts store will work great...dont get it on plastic or nice finish wood...apply your favorite flavor of oil when done...
    KISS.
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    Wow..Chem 101..I thought this was a firearms forum....Denatured alcohol may work also. It has a tendency to displace water and strip varnish...Just My .02

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    Let none complain that we do not go into detail !

    Quote Originally Posted by Mohawk View Post
    Wow..Chem 101..I thought this was a firearms forum....
    It is! It is!
    - But we like to get down to the atomic level when solving our problems.
    No superficiality here!

    Patrick

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