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Originally Posted by
Thunderbox
forend should return to its former bedding, ie good fit all around the receiver and under the chamber/ free-float up to the muzzle/ slight barrel down pressure onto front of forend.
How is the down-pressure applied? A shim between barrel and handguard?
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07-01-2011 02:36 PM
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OK take it back a step. There you have an example where the barrel is set sideways. At that point, where the rest of it looks good, what is the next step?
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Originally Posted by
gblacksmith
How is the down-pressure applied? A shim between barrel and handguard?
You have to remove wood ( a tiny scraping, usually) from under the chamber and front of the receiver, so that the whole barrelled action tilts downward - thus causing the end of the barrel to press down on the end of the forend.
---------- Post added at 10:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:07 PM ----------
Originally Posted by
newcastle
OK take it back a step. There you have an example where the barrel is set sideways. At that point, where the rest of it looks good, what is the next step?
It depend upon what you actually see, eg:
1. if the barrel lies parallel to the barrel channel for its whole length, then the dark patch may just indicate a high point in the wood (especially if its new forend with a rough cut channel). Sanding down the high point will cause the barrel to rest somewhere else - hopefully on the centreline.
2. If the barrel appears to run towards the touching point, ie not parallel to the barrel channel, then this may indicate one side of the forend rear end (where it lies against the butt socket) is too high/low. Generally, the opposite side need to be filed down a touch, so that the barrel and action aren't pointed to one side.
3. The forend itself may have a warp at the end - very common. If its a mild warp and the forend is a keeper (eg numbered to the rifle), then the barrel channel can be relieved asymmetrically in order to let the barrel run straight. If the warp is too bad, then the handguards and front band will not sit properly without a corresponding amount of custom shaping.
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Clarifictaion, if point 2. barrel is lying sligthly to the RIGHT of teh channel as in teh oicture, it seems to me that I shoul;d relive the RIGHT side on the forend where it contacts the butt socket- correct?
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Originally Posted by
newcastle
Clarifictaion, if point 2. barrel is lying sligthly to the RIGHT of teh channel as in teh oicture, it seems to me that I shoul;d relive the RIGHT side on the forend where it contacts the butt socket- correct?
To clarify, its either the flat against the butt socket on the same side, or the recoil face on the opposite side.
Trouble is, adjusting either of these two surfaces can slacken off the overall firmness of the receiver/forend fit, so you have to go very carefully. If the forend is clearly not original to the rifle, its also advisable to check that something else isn't pushing the forend to one side - e.g the charger bridge on a No1, or the rear handguard retaining ring on a No4.
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Here's a one I did earlier today.
Last edited by Demo; 07-02-2011 at 07:45 AM.
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Originally Posted by
Demo
Here's a one I did earlier today.
ETA: Oops, photo is huge! I won't directly link it.
Milled/ routered in recesses? Or just avoiding stress concentrations...Not sure it that applies to wood so much.
Last edited by jmoore; 07-02-2011 at 10:17 AM.
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It's how Lithgow was strengthening it's recoil lugs in the late 20's. It's just a nice looking job I thought I'd show.
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Originally Posted by
Demo
Here's a one I did earlier today.
Did you route it out using a template and tracing collar? If so can I see a pic of how you mounted it?... Or is there a Dremil involved?
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Sorry I was being a little smart. This is not my job but how Lithgow tried to improve it's recoil lugs in the late 20's. This sort of thing is not often seen because rifles made in this period retaining the forend from new manufacture are fairly scarce. I'm sure the majority of you know that anyway. I don't think it helped much.