Refinishing a Sten MK3

[boristhepig]

Hi
Looking for some suggestions for refinishing a Deactivated Sten gun, its currently covered in 3 or 4 coats of what I presume is suncorite applied with a 6 inch brush over the years, this has been worn scratched and chipped and i would like to refinish it. I believe it would have originally had a parkerized finish. i am looking for ideas for a home DIY refinish, do I strip the old paint and repaint it black, do i cold blue or try re-parkerizing. I also am somewhat more limited due to the fact I am in the UK.

Thanks Terry

Information

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[Peter Laidler]

Is it one that you can cosk and strip down or one that is pretty well welded up solid? If it's welded up solid then that's pretty well the end of the line!

On the basis that you aren't going to use it for street and house clearing in the streets of Caen and it's an early strippable version I'd suggest stripping it as far as you can. Degrease it fully by leaving it in a paint stripper overnight then rinse it through in hot water. Take it to a bead blasting outfit and ask them to bead blast it. Since you lack phosphating facilities, invest in a couple cans of heat resisting satin paint. Then while it's fully degreased and bead blasted with a good surface to key onto, hang it up on a wire hook and spray it.

Just a thin coat at a time so that it builds up - and up - and up! After a few coats and it's semi dry to the touch, put it in the oven at 100 to 150c or so until it hardens off properly. After it's cooled and dry, spray it or immerse it in oil and allow to drain off. It's not quite a Base Workshop or FTR finish but as I said, you won't be crossing the Rhine with it or throwing it into the back of your Bedford while you make your way to wherever. The paint will have had a good key and will hold. A high temp cure exhaust paint works as well as you'll need for a deact.

The trouble with the old Mk3's is that the bead blast material gets into the main casing so you could plug the holes with some tapered wood dowels while you do it

[boristhepig]

Hi And thanks for your advise Mr Laidler, I find it very apt that you should respond to this post as your self and your book The Sten Machine Carbine are partly responsible for my purchasing a Sten. That and the even stranger coincidence in your mention of a Bedford truck, as my Grandfather was a Cpl. In the RASC and told me about his rattling Bedford truck and rattling Sten. I will post some pictures when I get the Sten completed. Another thing that made this particular gun appealing to me is the fact that it has not been modified for the top placement of the sling or had the safety-cocking handle mod.

[bigduke6]

Terry,

Apart from the expert advice from Peter, you could try a black oxide kit from caswell, but the price is a lot more than a can of spray.

http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/coldox.htm

Finish varies from types of steel but works well and have had some good results on Mags, No4 actions, barrels etc.

[Peter Laidler]

Just a minute Boris.......... are you sure that Glostershire isn't spelt GLOUCESTERSHIRE

[boristhepig]

Hi
Sten is about prepared for a coat of cold black oxide suggested by bigduke, I thought i would try it and see how it turns out and if i am not happy with the finish can still go with Peter Laidler`s spray paint option. And if it does work to my satisfaction can see it coming in useful for any future projects.
Would just like to check before I proceed that everything on an original Sten as it would have left the factory would have been parkerized bolt return spring etc ?

Thanks Terry

[Peter Laidler]

That's a good point Boris..... Springs were left bare but bolts seem to be phosphated and plain. Sterling bolts were certainly phosphated but they were just case hardened higher carbon mild steel.

Let us know the results.

Your stuff in the post early this morning

[boristhepig]

Hi

Sten MkIII pictures by smle - Photobucket

I have just about finished with the Sten, the cold black oxide worked out OK for the ancillary parts trigger cover, trigger, return spring housing etc. But I failed to get a satisfactory finish to the main body of the Sten. I not 100% sure as to why the quality of the steel having a low carbon content my preparation etc but finding my self with neither the time or the money to expend on it further decided to go the paint route. I would have preferred a parkirized finish but am not dissatisfied with the spray paint its smooth hammerite and oven baked. It looks better in the flesh than my poor pictures and considering the condition it was in before I started and the large amount of corrosion I found in places under the old paint I am happy.
Not sure if I should cold black the bolt or leave as is? Or should I give the body a coat of suncorite ?

Thanks Terry

[bigduke6]

Terry,

The only problem I have had with the cold oxide is on new Walther barrels after I have turned them down, after all the prep, and imerssed in the black oxide tank, it comes out excellent but after a few days they rust, once cleaned off (the rust) the prosess is repeated and have never had a problem with the final finish.

I,ve found in some cases that some items only require minutes and other ones require over the 15 mins what is stated in the instruction.

(just reading your post again, did you dip the body in the black oxide?)

[Harlan (Deceased)]

Hi Terry,

You do very nice work and I think it looks outstanding just as it is. I'd love to have one just like it!

~ Harlan