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If you have a raised foundation, maker sure you have proper support under the floor. Maybe had a few piers and extra supports depending on how large your safe will be. Slab floor no issue.
Most safes have the locking mechanism is the same place. Intruders know this and can drill to a templete and open your safe. My safe has a feature I like. They place mechanisms staggered around in the door. Your serial number corresponds to a map location that they keep. Makes it a bit harder to penetrate.
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11-29-2011 12:06 PM
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The last guy I spoke to said his safes did the same thing. Without the SN, you can't get the template from the factory.
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Originally Posted by
JGaynor
I don't have any connection with the company in the link but I like their approach. The equipment is high end and its reflected in the prices. On the other hand the rule of thumb we generally relied on in the industry was that the price of a safe should probably not exceed seven percent (7%) of the value of the contents.
I just want to make sure that's not a typo. Not to exceed 7% seems very low to me. I would expect you'd want 7% as a floor. I don't think I'd be worried about spending too much unless the cost of the safe exceeded 50% of the value of my contents. Especially considering that the value of the things you want to put in will go up as you collect more and each item increases in value.
I know I'm a weirdo sometimes, but am I that far off base from the norm?
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The 7% figure came from my recollection of an insurance industry standard or recommendation. You of course would be free to invest whatever amount makes you feel comfortable and fits your particular circumstances. If you live in an isolated location or if police response to residential alarms is a low priority then opting for commercial safe with a "B", "C" or even a TL-15 or TL-30 burglary rating may be warranted.
Most so-called "gunsafes" are either unrated or have a UL RSC (Residential Security Container) label. The RSC label means they have been tested to provide 5 minutes of resistance to forced entry using common hand tools (pry bars sledge hammers etc.)
One way to approach the issue would be to value your collection and have a discussion with your insurance agent and see if they have a recommendation.
Regards,
Jim
---------- Post added at 12:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 PM ----------
Originally Posted by
Hoss
The last guy I spoke to said his safes did the same thing. Without the SN, you can't get the template from the factory.
I would not buy a safe from any company that will dispense drill point (templates) to anyone other than a licensed safe technician. Serial number or no serial number. Drilling a safe is not a DIY proposition. Some are easier than others but one mistake and the safe may be hopelessly locked out.
Regards,
Jim
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[QUOTE=J
I would not buy a safe from any company that will dispense drill point (templates) to anyone other than a licensed safe technician. Serial number or no serial number. Drilling a safe is not a DIY proposition. Some are easier than others but one mistake and the safe may be hopelessly locked out.
Regards,
Jim[/QUOTE]
Exactly right. The guys who built mine say they will come out and do the work. They do not give lock locations to anyone. Oh yeah, by the way, at no charge.
Jim
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